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Day 2: Even though both germinated together, Blueberry showed true leaves a day after putting into the soil. On the other hand the WW shows the first signs of the cotyledon leaves, but just about to scratch the surface.
Day 4 : Removed the plastic film from the top of the BB, sine it was almost about to hit the film. Left it on with the WW. Keep the film always most.
Watered both with pH: 6.1 dechlorinated water around the base of each plant.
Day 6: 1 cotyledon leaf and the only 2 mini true leaves from the White Widow shrunk and look a little dekay. From a light green it got a darkish green. The stem looks steady and straight but if you see it as a mirror, the second half looks sad and decayed. This day the maximum temperature inside the tent was 33C, maybe was not a good idea to remove so early the film and got a little heat and direct light.
Aprox, how many days after planting them into the soil should it be expected to see the seedling rise? My BB showed mini true leaves in 24 hrs (after putting it into the medium), but my WW has not yet emerged.
Its alright, depends alot on the quality and state of the seed. If in a week you still font see anything i would worry, till then its only normal. As you can see you WW is a bit slower than your BB, the tap root on the WW was much smaller. If you planted at the same soil depth you should begin to see her in 2-3 days max. Dont worry If she has already sprouted the taproot your chances just improved alot.
What could be the reason why the White Widow seedling´s cotyledon leaf and the only 2 mini true leaves shrunk and look a little bit less alive? Background: 4 days after sprouting I removed the wet plastic film , day was hot (86-91F). Light 30 in from the canopy. Stems looks ok
Something is stressing her a bit, but don't throw in the towel just yet. Feed her just enough to stay moist. She is way more focused on building a root structure right now anyway and that's going to be what gives you results in the end. Don't overwater and don't hit her directly with a fan.
Day 7: It was applied a .250ml of Rootzilla per 250 mL solution . It was spray applied.
Day 8: It was applied a .250ml of Rootzilla per 250 mL solution . It was spray applied to moisten the surface and the base of the seedling.
What happens if a seedling looses its true leaves during the 1st week after germination but the cotyledon leaves are still alive and green and the stem is straight?
Do another set of True leaves reappear? and how can this affect the perdormance of the plant?
No, if it loses it first true leaves, that's it, no new ones will ever grow.
Their "disappearance" was likely due to too high a humidity, especially if you had covered the newly hatched seedling with cling film or other humidity boosting cover.
Cannabis seedlings do not need artificially high humidity to grow, but they do need good air exchange, something that can not happen when under a cover of any sort. Having a light on can also raise the temperature under the cover considerably, literally cooking any new growth or causing moulds or fungus to attack the plant. Cannabis is not a rain forest plant and growing seedlings under humidity domes/sweat lodges is one of the most frequent mistakes I see in Grow Diaries. Only cuttings/clones need extra humidity, and only for a short time while they are waiting to form a new root system.
Just think about what happens in nature, cannabis grows in the open air, there are no little elves or fairies running around covering cannabis seedlings with little humidity domes or plastic film. Most Idicas come from the middle east, a very dry climate and most sativas come from equatorial countries and grow in the "dry" season, both environments are very low in humidity. Cannabis needing humidity is an outdated concept from the 1960s when pot was coming from South East Asia (and people generally had very little actual knowledge about cannabis), so people though "jungle", whereas the pot came from low land areas and grown during the dry season. This myth about cannabis needing humidity has strangely persisted for the last 60 odd years and is largely an urban myth. I also believe people are wasting vast amounts of money by unnecessarily having and running humidifiers in their grow tents/spaces. Cannabis actually prefers a dry environment from mid flowering onwards, and will produce the largest amounts of trichomes when its is arid at the end stages of flowering.
Hope this helps, Organoman.
Day 10 : Added .5ml of Rootzilla and .5ml of Kelper at pH 6.1 to 250mL in dechlorified filtered water . Around the base of the plant and keeping the substrate moist.
Day 14 : Added .5ml of Rootzilla and .5ml of Kelper at pH 6.1 to 250mL in dechlorified filtered water . Around the base of the plant and keeping the substrate moist.
Day 18 : Added .5ml of Rootzilla and .5ml of Kelper at pH 6.1 to 250mL in dechlorified filtered water . Around the base of the plant and keeping the substrate moist.
Day 23: Apply .5mL of Rootzilla with .25 mL of Forza Silica at a pH 6.3 in 250 mL of dechlorinated filtered water around the base of the seedling and the whole medium.
Day 28: Apply 1mL of Rootzilla with .5 mL of Forza Silica at a pH 6.3 in 250 mL of dechlorinated filtered water around the base of the seedling and the whole medium. Kelper was mixed with water and applied via Foliar Feeding (Sprayed on the leaves) right before the lights turn off to avoid a magnifier effect on the leaves because of the drops and direct exposure to the light.
I couldnt help to see that other growers´ photoperiods (BB strains) are taller, thicker and leafier than mine by week 3 and 4. Is it normal that mine by the end of week 4 is this size? Affects that the seed shell is still attached to the stem?
Will appreciate a lot your comments
Transplant them into decent sized pots, those tiny cups are dreadfully under sized for proper root development and only really adequate for the first 5-7 days of growth.
Pots about 4 inches across and 5 inches deep are far more suitable and have enough room and volume for great root growth and enough space for 3 weeks of development.
You can't grow an elephant in a canary cage!
You also need to start feeding them with proper grow nutrients, half strength to start with, the supplements you are now giving do not contain any major nutrients in any great concentration. Seaweed, silica and root stimulants will not provide your plant with the building blocks it needs to grow properly and they all lack adequate amounts of nitrogen, phosphorous and potassium (the major nutrients) that your plant needs to grow.
At the moment, what you are giving is like feeding soup broth to a cage fighter, who really needs steak and carbs to perform to their best. Soup broth may prevent death, but will not provide the energy needed to perform at A level sports.
It is all about nutrition and an adequate and balanced diet.
Hope this helps, Organoman.
Last week (3rd) the green of the leaves were a bit darker, this week (4th) their green looks lighter /paler. Is this an issue?
Week 3 pic on the left -- Week 4 pic on the right
Yes, this is a problem, your plants are suffering from lack of nutrition and no doubt starving.
Please see my answer that I posted in your other question for more clues to guide you towards healthy and happy plants.
After looking at your diary, it seems your light should be adequate, just your feeding is missing the mark, as well as the cups being a dreadfully unsuitable size for proper seedling development.
Cheers, Organoman.
Day 29: 2mL of Kaly Magy were added to 750 mL of dechlorinated filtered water with a pH of 6. It was applied via foliar feeding one night before. In the morrning it was watered with the CalMag solution. Addiotional to that , 1mL of Giga Grow was added to 250 mL of dechlorinated filtered water at a pH 6. Watering proportional to the growth of the plant.
Day 32: Foliar feeding at a pH 5.9.
5mL Forza silica and .5mL of Kelper on 250 mL
Day 34: 1 mL Rootzilla; 1 mL Giga Grow ; .5 mL Kaly Magy in 300 mL of dechlorinated filtered water pH 6.1
Day 35 : Transplantation of the plant. Diagnosed that this plant was stunted. Buffered the 5 Gal of coco coir with CalMag. 70% COCO / 15 % Perlite / 10% Worm castings / less than 5% spread in different layers some mycorrhizae. The hole was sprayed with a solution of water with root enhancer fertilizer.
Week 5: Did some research and many suggested that it is due to overwatering, which I kinda agree with . I was feeding around 100ml every 2-3 days with the nutrients. This week I added the Nitrogen nute. This week I installed a homemade CO2 DIY . Cotyledon shrunk and turned yellow
Hmm, not too sure here, but I have all pots that are plastic/ that don't let air in...are out of service for my weed experiments after my last issue plant will be harvested from it..
too much water can become a problem with little water, because the earth can't let the water flow and reach all parts.. (and suffocate a plant easily too it seems)
I'm thinking of giving more and more importance to airy earth..
Good luck with the grows!
I think your main issue all along was your ph in soil. I imagine it is still a issue. That is the root of all the issues. Make sure your run off ph is in acceptable range to grow in.
Day 43 - 625 mL @532 PPM
6.01 pH
2.5 mL ROOTZILLA / 2.5 mL GIGA GROW
Watering once a week to avoid overwatering. Since I started following this regime the plant is not stunted anymore.
Day 50 : 125 mL water @pH 5.8 , Foliar feeding with .25mL each of Kelper and Forza Silica in the night.
Day 51: 500 mL @ 570 ppm 6 pH
2mL Rootzilla / 2 mL Giga grow
Day 54: 650 mL , pH 5.64 , 400 ppm , 1mL Giga grow + .5 mL CalMag // Foliar feeding .25mL CalMAg in 150 mL , at pH 6.1 , 397 ppm
The lower leaves keep turning yellow and look a little down.
The conditions:
Temp : (80-87F)
Humidity: (50-65%)
Light distance : 24 in
Mexico is hot!
Feed : once a week with Nitrogen nutes
After trasplantation it ceased to be stunted, but still down see a rapid greener growth.
The run off pH is 6, the ppm is 947.
I have watered with pH 5.5 plain water, but the pH soil meter indicates alkaline solution. What do I do?
Temps (80-85F)
Humidity (60-70%)
Light dist : 25 in
I just looked over your diary and those have some stunting going on.. I’m not sure what the cause is but it might be worth popping some more seeds if you got em as back ups
That’s a pretty high PPM for a young plant like that. Probably just over feeding.. I’d be shooting for like half that as far as PPM. Looks like you’re in coco, if not properly buffered sometimes coco has high amounts of salts in it and needs flushed/buffered with calmag before .. especially if it was brick coco
Day 66: 4mL Fish emulsion and 1 mL Forza Silica in 750 mL pH 5.8 water
This week there was an improvement in growth and the leaves that turned a bit yellow, regained some of their greeness. It was a while since the growth of new True leaves.
Day 76: 1.5L @5.6 pH & 595ppm with 5mL Fish emulsion + 2mL Rootzilla + 2mL Forza Silica + 2mL KalyMAgy
Would dare to say that the stunting was due to not using a proper nute rich in Nitrogen a bit of overwatering. Fish emulsion proved to trigger the growth of this baby.
Goodluck with your grow. I feel like you need to use something else apart from Coco coir possibly. If providing the base nutrients for the plants is going to be difficult. Since the lack of nutrient in Coco right. Pick a good soil mix. ( Super soil maybe ) ( take it as you will. I'm still begginner )
Yo what’s is up G!
I would like to make one suggestion. You should drop down the light to about 40 cm as it is making your plants stretch and not get the needed light or reduced light spectrum.
dfj92
