Tangie autos

Although germination took around 1 week from seed to seedling I’m only counting from when they left the prop and into their pots. End of first week and things are going good. RO water with Root Ex and Great White every other feed till flower. PPFD 300 when first potted up. Day 1 potted up watered with RE & GW. Day 4watered with RO water. Day 7watered with RE & GW. PPFD 400 end of week 1.

Girls ticking over nicely. -RO water -RO water + root ex and great white PPFD 450. Want it up to 600-650 by end of next week. Going to top next week then LST. Watch this space ✌️🏽

End of week and flowers are starting to show. Plants looking healthy. Not really asking for anything so still feeding off soil. Still on RO water (EC 0.0) added a few extras in last feed of the week (EC 0.3) I’ll keep an eye on them and start creeping my EC up next week. Starting LST next week to utilise light foot print. Aiming to keep PPFD 600-700 till flower on 18-6

Bottom leaves starting to yellow so started them on first proper feed (0.9EC) Autopot tank lasts about a week so when I fill it up and leave 24hours to settle I’ll water plants from top with 2 litres of plain water. This will stop nutrient build up in soil. Struggled a lot with low PH in soil last grow. I’ve LST’d plants so they are getting 450-650 ppfd across them all. I’ll keep tying them down or lifting lights to keep this till harvest. If I run out of height I’ll reduce my light hours so I keep the correct DLI (daily light integral) If you don’t know about DLI give it a google. I’m checking my PPFD with an LED light meter, not cheap but worth every penny. I’m checking my soil with a PH probe, my water tanks EC and PH with a Blue lab Gardian and my set up temp and humidity with a G.A.S. Enviro controller. Thanks for stopping by ✌️🏽✌️🏽

Bottom leaves on plants getting strongest PPFD are yellowing and have brown spots. Definitely deficient as soil PH and feed PH is bang on. (Yellow leaves lack of Nitrogen. Rust spots lack of Calcium/magnesium or because they’re in flower maybe Potassium or Phosphorus). Upped cal/mag and Ton-o-bud a tad and I’ll keep an eye on things Should have started feed schedule sooner and ran higher EC. Upped it to 1.4 (1.7 including water) Had problems running autopots and getting salt build up and low PH in soil so every few days I’ll stop nutes and flush with PH 7.0 tap water. Far plant is getting low PPFD so I’m letting her grow taller. Rest are LST’d low. All plants receiving between 400-650 PPFD Thanks for stopping by ✌️🏽

So I’ve been struggling with nitrogen and cal/mag deficiencies. Reservoir PH 6.8 and soil 7 so kept adding more nutrients but kept getting worse. Luckily I stumbled across an old post on another forum of someone saying they’re PH probe was way off and they cleaned it with wire wool and a Brillo pad. I did the same, root zone PH 5! So I knocked up some 8ph water and flushed, managed to get PH run off to 6.4. The run off smelt really bad so mixed another PH 7-8 and added Root Ex and Planacillin. Flushed again and run off is 6.8. I’ll wait for pots to dry out before starting them back on nutes. Lost a lot of grow time in flower chasing ghosts. Remember kids always calibrate/clean you’re tools. Looking forward to a good last few weeks. Thanks for stopping by ✌️🏽

I’ve been watering with the autopot system for 3-4 days then top feeding with Plantacillin and carboblast. It seems to be working perfectly from keeping the salt build up on the top of my soil which has cause PH difficulties last few grows. Run off PH/EC exactly where I want it and soil PH spot on. One more week and I’ll switch to budboom, hopefully they pack on a bit more size. Thanks for stopping by ✌️🏽

Cleaned my tank out and swapped over to Bud Boom for final few weeks. Leaves changing colour pretty fast but PH in, run off and root zone right where I want them so I’ve lifted lights a little and reduced daylight hours to 16. (Leaves getting high DLI can get leaf Chlorosis, like sun burn from too much intense light for too long. If you can’t raise your lights you can always reduce daylight hours to get correct DLI: daily light integral). Happy to see yellows and purples but not this fast with 2/3 weeks left. I’ll top feed them with PH’d water and plantacillin every 4 days to reduce salt build up. This is a common problem with auto pots and synthetic nutes. Also next run I’ll be using coco, although this nute line says it can be used with any medium it naturally wants to sit around 5.8-6.3 so I’m having to PH UP quite a bit for soil. I’ll be using PH perfect soil once I’ve used up this future harvest stuff. Thanks for stopping by ✌️🏽 **I think I waited too long to start nutrients then started on too weaker EC. Next time in soil I’ll start a few weeks earlier so they can build up enough N in their leaves for back end of flower. Hopefully they can get what they need to ripen up. ** also another reason for leaf chlorosis might be due to each time I’ve top fed with plantacillin I’ve waited for pots to dry before putting the back on autopots with nutrients. This is a couple of extra days when P and K are in high demand. Note to self, top feed/flush but remember to fill trays with nutes before I let dry for 1-2 days.

Everything coming along nicely. PH sitting around 6.5-7. Ive got the lights on 14 hours as I’ve noticed a little foxtailing on a couple of the higher main buds and can’t lift lights any higher. DLI now 32 which is ok last weeks of flower. All trichomes cloudy so probably another 2-2.5 weeks till flush and chop. Thanks for stopping by folks ✌️🏽

So I let the plants feed off the soil till they showed signs of hunger which was first week in flower then I started them on a bloom heavy nutrient regime. Looking back now I should have had them on Veg nutes for first 2-3 weeks till stretch had stopped then switched them over. I also started them too light, I should have ran higher EC when they showed signs they needed fed. Leaves had way too little nitrogen for tail end of flower. I think the soil is holding on to water too much with autopots which can cause plants to loose chlorophyll (the green in the leaves) in flower. There are a few causes of chlorosis and when the green has gone the plants can no longer get the energy from the lights, they don’t bulk up or pump out half as many trichomes. This is the main reason I don’t defoliate, if I encounter problems in flower then the plant can use it’s stored nutrients to get to the finish line. They might look pretty fucked but I’d rather that and them survive than loose them at this stage. Next run I’m going to use coco, it means I’ll have to feed from day one but at least I can build them up and know what they’ve had. More lessons learnt, one more week or so then on to the next. Thanks for stopping by ✌️🏽✌️🏽

I’m top feeding 1 litre per plant per 24hours and I’ve reduced day light to 14 hours and I’ve taken day/night temps down a tad. (Reducing light and temps stops trichomes from ‘boiling’ off) They are getting really sticky now. A few trichomes have turned amber so I think I’m in the final week. I’ll keep an eye on things and keep feeding them carbs to increase trichome production till the end. Going to put them in the dark for 48 hours/temp 16c when they’re done. Thanks for stopping by ✌️🏽✌️🏽

I’ll update you after drying ✌️🏽✌️🏽