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All seed sprouted. 7 was a late bloomer. Going to grow them out a little bit in the styrofoam Solo Cup before sending in for gender testing.
Refilled humidifier 5 gallons 02/02/2022
The week was well. One of my ladies seem a little over watered. So I'll cut back on her little this week. I did top them all (yes I top earlier than most people 3rd or 4th node rather than 5th or 6th)
this week every time I watered I threw in some human acid and whatever microbes I felt like using I think I've added pnsb, & recharge and prolly the sample of fish sh!t I had this week. I'll prolly brew a tea or do a compost extract sometime this week just because I haven't done one yet.
I think you know I have been wrestling around with that also. As you saw I went ahead and put up something 😮. We will see what comes of it. My take is that timing might be fairly obvious with Sativa's (of which I now have a few and have observed how lanky they get) My grow with Indica has not been that obvious. They just squat and grow, and I could never figure them out. My guess is that "when" with photos is really "whenever". To me these would be the personal factors on my next grow: Do I have enough grow sites on each branch to make tops? At what height do I want my canopy? How much total height do I have? (plus lights, I forgot to hence Meristem supercrop.) Do I want to grow to the netting or LST or Supercrop to set my net and canopy height? My thinking is that if you know you are going to Scrog you can be fairly aggressive with topping or FIMming early on. After saying all of this I don't think there is any definite answer. Just sorta however you want to work it. Best of Luck to ya! I think you are going to do great!
Leaves look chewed or something thats just my failed attempt at FIM 🤣
One of the plan to still showing signs of excess of nitrogen. Probably due to human error (may have added to much N to that pot.) Added some extra mulch to the pot. No burn just waxy and dark and starting to claw a bit. (This is why people say get a soil test every round😄🤣)
Increased the lights to 50%. I'll see how the plants respond. I haven't gone online to get the ppfd chart to calculate DLI just winging it.
Gave the worms half of an avocado it's pop. They were going bad in the fridge figured I'd throw it in there to give the red wigglers to treat.
Broke the fan on my humidifier 🤣 have a new one comming in.
Back left is really thriving.
Any suggestions on the plant/pot that has N tox? I added some extra mulch.
Haven't Topdressed anything as of yet since the initial. Just water fish and seaweed, PNSB(Homemade), a bit of agsil 16, and microbial innoculents.
If its in soil just let it use it up and be more adamant about it in the future.
Should it ever be really bad. A flush is useful but the risk of drowning the roots is high in soil.
Good Luck!
This weeks comment will be quite a bit longer and informative:
Lights are at 50% the nitrogen issue seems to have fixed it's self. I'm going a bit slow and lazy this round but I'm making an SST now🤣🤣. I made some labs the other day so I'll use that soon also...
* Mid week I will do a foliar feed of Home made PNSB (when ever im home b4 lights come on or go off)
* SST:
Im using Rye and Barley seeds: Rye for its higher Auxins & Barley for a good balance of Auxins:Cytokinins and elevated Gibberellins.
* Top dressed some alfalfa for triacontanol. (Didn't really measure how much)
* Watered with aloe, coconut water, FAA and microbial inoculants.(I think I threw in some agsil for silica but not 100% sure.)
Will probably flip in the next 2- 3 weeks. (There wasn't a seedling stage to put as an option I calulate my growth stages differently than this grow diary allows. I go off 8 phases of growth not 3.. in my book im 2 weeks into veg)
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SST info and why:
Auxins - Promote Stem Elongation, inhibit growth of lateral bud sites due to it being responsible for Apical Dominance. Auxins are produced in the Stems, Roots and Buds. Auxins increase on the shaded or dark side of a plant increasing cell growth on that side which is what causes your plant to grow towards the light, known as phototropism, and occurs from seedling to harvest. During the flowering/fruiting phase Auxins promote ovary maturation as well as fruit/flower maturation and has the highest benefits for flower maturation and growth in shaded/low light conditions.
Gibberellins - Promote stem elongation, germination, flowering and enzyme production. Also assists with the production and release of specific enzymes that assist in the break down of protiens into amino acids. Also assist in promoting flowers/fruits in low light or low temperature environments. Found in the stamen of flowering male parts that influence flower production and pedicel growth.
Cytokinins - Involved in cell division and new plant roots and shoots. Delays Senescence. In conjunction with Auxins at varying ratios they boost root growth, shoot growth and help heal damaged parts of the plant. Cytokinins also assist in leaf growth and chloroplast development. Also helps to promote flowering and is great during transition from veg to flower but is needed even in flower to produce flowers and new leaves as well as healing damaged flowers or fruit.
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Benefits & why of what I watered in:
Coco water and sst has amino acids that include Alanine, β-Alanine, γ-Aminobutyric acid , Arginine, Asparagine and glutamine, Aspartic acid, Asparagine, Cystine, Glutamic acid , Glutamine, Glycine, Homoserine, Histidine, Isoleucine, Leucine, Lysine, Methionine, Ornithine, Phenylalanine, Pipecolic acid,Tyrosine,Tryptophan, Threonine, Valine, Dihydroxyphenylaline,
Hydroxyproline, Pipecolic acid, Abscisic acid and Salicylic acid
Aloe has amino acids that are Isoleucine, Leucine, Lysine, Methionine, Phenylalanine, Threonine, Valine,And Tryptophan. Alanine, Arginine, Asparagine, Cysteine, Glutamic Acid, Glycine, Histidine, Proline, Serine, Tyrosine, Glutamine, And Aspartic Acid.
FAA has amino acids that include Aspartic Acid, Glutamic Acid, Arginine, Lysine, Valine, Threonine, Leucine, Tyrosine, Histidine, Isoleucine, Phenylalanine, Methionine, Cysteine, Glycine, Proline, Alanine
Plants Growth Phases:
Imbibition is the first step in life. This is the process of a seed uptaking or imbiding water which makes the seed swell up hydrating the enzymes and carbohydrates in the seed that initiate life.
Germination occurs shortly or immediatly after imbibition and is the process of the reactivation of metabolic machinery in the seed resulting in the emergence of a radicle (tap root) and plumule (shoot/stem) and the uncurling of the cotyledon leaves and shedding of the seed husk resulting in a sprout.
Seedling is the stage directly after germination in which the sprout has formed its first set of true leaves not the cotyledon leaves. We are now in the seedling stage. This stage lasts until plants have 4-6 nodes.
Vegetative technically begins when 4-6 nodes have formed. This is often when we see the most vigorous change in vegetative growth in seedlings. This stage is the transitional period of plants from juvenile to sexually mature adults. Sexual maturity (preflowers will form shortly after) starts when branching goes from symetrical to asymetrical. This stage can be indefinite with a photoperiod species of plants like cannabis as long as we maintain proper light hours to keep in this stage.
Floral Transition is when we flip from veg lighting to Flower lighting schedule. Most start counting days of Flower at flip but we still have the natural Floral transition phase which takes, on average, 7-10 days before we begin to see actual floral bud sites forming which is the formation of 2-4 brachts (clayx in the cannabis world) and the cooresponding 4-8 stigmas (pistils in the cannabis world) at the apical growing shoots. This is first day of flower and flowering should be counted from here.
Floral Bud set/budding is when we physically can see an accumulation of 2-4 brachts and cooresponding stigmas at the top of each branch or the apical meristems. This is day one of actual flowering. This will naturally occur over a weeks time in flowering light schedule. Flowering Stretch occurrs 7-10 days after flip and lasts 14+ days depending on the Cultivar. Some people refer to this as the "Q-tip" stage. When we have small q-tip like puffs of white floral formations we are officially in flower and are past the floral transition phase.
Flowering begins immediatley after the Floral Budding stage and begins during the stretch as we can see bud sites increaseing in size and quantity. Those Q-tips become cotton balls. Flowering continues in to the bulk phase where we see a massive gain in size and density. Early stages of ripening and senescence begin here and is why we see a fade.
Ripening begins late in the flowering stage with abscision and senescence. Ripening is the maturation of the flower (trichomes) and/or any seeds. Proper ripening will bring a fade as abscision and senescence begin and the plant switches from nutrient assimilation to nutrient catobilization which results in a reduction of Nitrogen and Phosphorous from the leaf tissue and allows Magnesium to assist in the breakdown and removal of chlorophyll which gives way for other plant pigments such as Anthocyanin (Red, Blue and Purples) and Carotenoids (Yellows and Oranges) to present.
Death occurs here at our discretion since we are harvesting the flower of the plant. I personally judge based on trichome maturity coupled with flowering times to ensure peak potency but if we didn't intervein the plant would eventually start to decompose and rot and return to the soil from which it came.
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Seaweed extract/tonic is great for plants, also adding some mycorrhizae would be beneficial.
I use "Mykos" from Xtreme Gardening and can not recommend this product highly enough, it does eveything it claims, then some!
Might be a bit pricey, but worth every single cent.
Malted barely ground into a flour is far more effective than just plain barley. It can also be made into a tea.
Volcanic rock dust is another wonder ingredient, it is full of minerals and trace elements too.
Also worm castings, - natures' wonder plant stimulator!
And don't forget humic acid, fulvic acid and amino acids.
Congratulations on growing with nature!
Cheers, Organoman.
Put up the scrog net ill wait for the girls to grow into it and sort of even out the canopy a bit.
This week I will probably do a light topdress, foliar spray some PNSB with some aloe, & soil drench LABS.
During my last experiment have cultured green sulfur bacteria.
I usually just toss it when this happens... but I have a gallon of it are there any benefits of using it in my garden?
I can't seem to see any solid research articles about green sulfer bacteria in the garden.
Ask yourself why you would want it there- whats the point of adding it? What are you trying to achieve? by adding a bacteria that feeds on a certain element- once that element is used up what do u expect to happen? or once the conditions for life that it had during the culture process are no longer there, i.e after adding it to the soil, medium ect... it wont survive. Adding sulfur would help, adding bacteria that eats sulfur may make it more bio available, but you have to be adding sulfur often to get any benefit from it. more to the point why do u need so much sulfur anyways?
Look, this whole cultured bacteria thing is great n all, but the bacteria we want is easily added to soil via manures. U try running some straw or grass thru a cows four guts for a few days and let it ferment in there for a bit, and you will see how mother nature cultures her bacteria. And thats the good bacteria we want in our soil to break down organics and feed our plants. Mushroom compost is another good one, u grow fungi in any media for a while in the dark with nice damp conditions for a few weeks and you will see another version of mother nature culturing up a storm.
odds are if you add your mix, it will be off the PH charts and will screw up more things than it helps.
In saying all that, if you have one plant you dont mind losing, u can try it on it and see... but ive never heard of adding any kind of sulfur in larger amounts so no idea what will happen.
Increased my hurricane fans and forgot to make the oscillate so my back plants has a little bit of wind burn but they will recover.
Increased lights to 75% last week I believe.
Back left plant is also taking on a hell of a lot of traits database to a sativa. It's going to be interesting to see how she turns out compared to the others.
Watered in some homemade pnsb, labs, coconut water, some fish fertilizer for the amino acids, And I did a compost extract.
I did a foliar of pnsb using aloe as a surfactant, and I also did a foliar feeding of the compost extract. Pretty easy week.
I was in the process of getting my plants ready for flip, and realized I never posted my weekly update yesterday.
Last week:
I did notice some light intensity issues starting to show so I raised the lights up and adjusted back to 50%.
I did get overzealous with my training and broke a main stem last Wednesday.
Taped her back no real issues or anything (yet) with the break the branch seems to be fine sofar.
This week:
Ill do a small top dress this week. (some compost, ewc and bloom fertilizer.)
I plan on Flipping Mid / late week, unless the branch shows any stress signs then I'll wait a week.
Any advice, tips or tricks are always welcome.
Flipped today currently in the Floral Transition stage.
Watered with a Cytokinin dominant SST.
Top dressed some bloom fertilizer with ewc and biodiverse compost. Cut down all the cover crop.
I did a top dressing, everything seems to be going pretty well they are looking Frosty.
Im debating on increasing the PhotonTek 600w pro to 75% what do yall think its in a 4x4 tent. I don't have a PPFD METER nor can I find PPFD charts for this light in a 4x4 space so I'm just winging it atm.
Back left looks hungry gave her an extra top dressing.
Increased lights to 75% today
Trying to keep VPD around 1.4 the heavy rain is making it somewhat difficult lol. 😕
Any tips or advice is appreciated!
Everything seems good for the most part.
Had some light intensity issues I think pulled the light up to about 18 inches from canopy.
Just watered with pnsb and SST.
PhotonTek 600w pro light at 75%
It's been a couple weeks. I wasn't home at all last week most of this week up until 2 days ago. Everything was going well there seemed to be a calcium deficiency I gave some wca, with some cytoplus.
Had some issues with the person watering my plants. So they went through a dry period and a super heavy watering. Feel free to offer me tips and advice!
I had to add some support for the back left plant. I can technically Harvest and now but I'm waiting for a little more Amber on 3 plants. Its like 60/40 milky clear. Im thinking a week or so on 3 plants. But im horrible at guessing when they will be ready to harvest lol until I just scope and see lol.
Debating on cutting down what do yall think?
I'm also looking for a microscope that will take decent pics/video that will work with a Samsung Galaxy S21.
Going by the pictures in your diary from the previous week, your plants are well and truly ready for harvest.
Once the plant has 98-99% brown pistils, you should be in the harvest zone.
I'm not seeing even one trichome that's turned amber... think you need to wait a bit longer! That being said, it all depends on what you want out of your smoke... Chopping now would give you a cerebral high without any "danger" of couch lock... if you wait for the amber and see about 10-20% of the trichs that color, you'll have a nice balance between cerebral and body relaxation... you can harvest "late" where most of the trichs are amber - and that will put you on the couch... So YOU decide... what do YOU want? :-D
Good luck!
SillyTrippyHippy
