Let the > 30% sativa out

I wouldn't worry much about the purple coloration on the stems as that's most likely the phenos pigmentation. Also as far as her being pale I really don't think it has anything to do with what you're doing but just the normal transitional stress of going from veg to bloom. Some phenos can handle it better than others and I've been through this myself with a GSC pheno I had that faded to such a light green in the first couple weeks of flower I thought for sure something had to be a miss and actually posted here as well. She ended up getting over the hump so to say but ultimately stayed a lighter shade of green. Hope this helps.

I have a strong feeling it's a calcium deficiency. I looked through your diary and noticed you only have mag listed and not calcium with it. It's normally best to use these nutrients in conjunction because they basically have a symbiotic relationship and work together. Shes getting the mag but not the cal. I would get some bush doctor that's low in nitrogen so you don't drive your ppm up and see if this helps her. Hope this helps.

you have a phosphorus deficiency blue spots a deficiency of everything else too.. remembering that pH, unless it's extreme, doesn't matter much in cultivation... looking at your fertigation, it's normal to have all the deficiencies, they are hungry, bio bloom and bio grow you should give 4+4 ml another thing, are the ppm of the solution you use or the runoff? keep in mind that you should give at least 1200ppm and normally the output is higher unless the plant is hungry... remember that ppm can also be misleading, a product with many salts can give a high EC even if in reality there are very few potassium, phosphorus, and nitrogen my opinion is to give them a watering only with biobloom and biogrow 4ml each, they contain all the necessary nutrients if you have mycorrhizae, that would be a blessing

and here I am to say the opposite of everything... first, pH control is only necessary with mineral fertilizers, and it seems to me that you are using mono magnesium from cane, and that is the only mineral you use, and magnesium is better absorbed by the plant with a range of 6.5-7.5 more or less. when using organic fertilizers, it's not the pH that helps absorb nutrients, but the mycorrhizae that break down the nutrients and give them to the plant; the plant, on the other hand, produces carbohydrates that it exchanges with the nutrients from the mycorrhizae. so the result of the runoff pH is not a number to rely on. as for the administration of organic cal mag and mineral magnesium, it can lead to imbalances; calcium and magnesium always go together like two married people, but if you add more magnesium, the couple has problems. now you might wonder, but if they also make pH- bio, it must be useful for something; let's say it makes money, and the regulated pH, even if not very useful in organic, doesn't cause problems.

They are looking good. Light color is from light stress plus burnt tips that are straight means it was wanting more potassium. Your ph might be getting put of line due to plant wanting more then it has to consume. Enjoy the smoke. You should be starting a fade very soon. So colors won't matter. It may color morph out during that time.

Don't worry they haven't gone into reveg. With regards to the lemon tree it looks really good but I would wait till 20% of trichomes turn amber. It is really close to being ready for harves though so check it daily. Good luck with the rest of your grow and good job

Yescthis plant is done in a about a week. You want to go off trichromes on the buds. Not the sugar leaves. Looking good enjoy🌱

From zooming on your diary images, you don't have any amber trichomes yet, most are still transparent some are milky. On the other hand your pistilis have turned orange and curled. You have a max of 2 weeks left from these images. With regards to flush, you need to start the flush 14 to 10 days before harvest so you can give them 1 more give feed and then start the flush. More details: Get yourself a jeweller's loupe (ideal, but a magnifying glass or even your phone camera will do) and check the bud trichomes. You will thank yourself because cutting early gives you the feeling of missed potential. Once you have looked at the magnified trichomes, you should look for the milky trichomes. The milky trichomes are full of THC. The transparent one's are undeveloped (less THC) and the amber ones are a bit overdeveloped because the THC will have started deteriorating. Since not all trichomes switch at the same time, I would aim for 20% amber trichomes. More amber trichomes creates more of a body high (usually associated with indica strain) while less amber trichomes gives you more of a head high (usually associated with sativa strains). P.S. Following pistils (the white hairs on the buds) alone is not reliable but you want to have most of them turn orange and start to curl. Good luck on the rest of your grow 😃. Looks like a good yield

Looks weird 😅... Judge the harvest point as you normally would. Most look for the point when their trichomes are mostly cloudy and take the crop down at that point. Don't worry about it foxtail is still good that just happened because of light/heat stress try lower the heat or setting ur light away from the buds or dim it to 80-90% at the end still will be good

Your plants all seem to have just started their fade.... Whether they are indica or sativa, I'd give them another week at least and take away all their nutes... given them a nice, week-long flush with plain pH'd water and then chop away. They're all wonderfully frosty! Good job! Cheers....