Northern Lights Photo Fem, 1st Grow

Is it based on the size of the pot? or the size of the plant? or both maybe? How much? -- pretty much, yes. the pot size and ingredients of your substrate will determine how much water it can hold. how frequently you irrigate is based on how fast the plant can drink some minimum portion along with whatever evaporation occurs. This is why it's good to have the plant properly sized to its pot. How much? as much as it takes. don't try to chose the volume. Simply water until the entire substrate is wet - a little runoff is fine, and if in soilless context, 10% runoff religiously. In soil you don't want to leech off your pre-amended nutes. a little runoff ensures you avoid re-ocurring dry pockets or zones in the subsrate where minerals can build up where it ebbs and flows but never clears it out before it dries again (minerals remain but plant cannot obtain if dry). Also, use more than 20% perlite. go closer to 50/50 with soil. It will increase frequency of irrigaiton, but you'll have better roots and better plants. either grow bigger or shave time off your grow at same size, which saves money and your effort. So, in soil.. water until you get a litle runoff. you can dial it in so that you minimize that leeching of your pre-amended nutes that come in soil. Wait until top 1 " dries and repeat. Feel the weight of the pot. If you water at this point each time it will requie the same mass in water, therefore same volume, roughly (fertilized water is slightly denser). i'd stick to this religiously early. You can probably preempt that a bit in flower, but with 20% perlite stick to 1" drying before irrigating. Seedlings, at this stage i let the top half inch dry or so. when they are sprouts and tap root is not deep, i won't let it dry out quite that much. This only is relevant to 1 irrigation, though. after that the tap root will be all the way down to bottom. Some soil can last 6-8 weeks before you need to add anything. Fertilize when you see those lower cotyledons start to turn yellow, but start at 1/4 strength. Depending on the concentration you may want that mixed in every other or every third irrigation. personal preferences will come into play. Take notes of how things go and when you applied what fertiliser etc etc. it'll help the next time. and eventually you'll have a good procedure memoried. You can learn the volume needed retroactively. After you irrigate, pay attention to how much 1 pot takes and repeat at same dry off time. Some plants will drink faster than others. If close enoug convenience comes into play, but in general a wet-dry cycle is healthier for roots and less risky for root disease and a whole assortment of other issues.

Id do before the transition into the Veg stage. These is when you will see your stem split and make and opposite set of growth. This is when your plant leaves seedling stage. So, anywhere just before that, I wouldn't leave too much longer after that. I'm not a fan of growing in dixy cups full stop. They hinder air getting to the bottom of your soil. And can build up with fluids. Poke a few holes if you haven't. But, really just uppot it and it'll be good to go. After your veg is done. You can go ahead then a uppot again for pre flower. This will cause an explosion in top growth I've found. Don't leave it too late. The week before you flip. Uppot that way if there's any stress. You can ride it out until you know she's 100% as if it's a long veg. She might be root bound. You'll need to break up the roots lightly at the end to help root expansion again. It'll cause stress. But a few days and she'll be back at full tilt. Then get your LST points set, defol if needed. Not too much. And never defol during pre flower "the stretch, upwards growth".. dis takes roughly from 14-21 days. You'll know when Calyxs start to form and upwards growth nearly comes to a stop. Good Growing.

recent transplant and irrigation - give it a few days. bet it pops back up before then. looks like a healthy amount of perlite, so drainage should be fine. susrprised it drooped. disturbed a rootball, maybe? would have noticed it get loose or fall apart.

Wrinkled, droopy leaves, laden with water tell me water is there but the process is broken elsewhere, lime green is not isolated to the top or bottom half of the plant is not deficiency of nitrogen, more of a mild lockout. Leaf shape and size relative to vertical height is huge, ..... normally an indication of a plant developing leaves "going bigger to capture more" meaning ideally it wants more, as light Your lights are LeD custom 600watts is that actual wattage? 600 led watts @ 16" from the plant would highly oversaturate the plant with light, which could explain slightly stunted, yet good-quality growth. Fabric pots are not as forgiving as you may imagine, make sure the bottom is not sitting flat on the surface bottom must remain elevated to prevent moisture from setting too long. if you are to keep humidity above 50% make sure you have a fan hitting that fabric and not letting moisture set. The plant is small and is probably not much bigger in roots, with high levels of perlite in your medium this will most likely pass water very easily, gravity pulling water out of reach of still small roots, water more frequently but less quantity at least until bigger, your pots look tall for such a young one. If it's an actual 60-100w light at 16" then id be telling you to get the grow closer until temps reach at least 77 but only if you keep humidity strictly below 50, photosynthesis requires heat in tandem as it enhances the ability to capture the light within the leaf, 70 during lights on, leaf surface temperature for optimal photosynthesis happens around 86 Fahrenheit. Not frozen but your car engine is chilly cold no matter how much fuel (light) you throw at it. Good luck.

7,5 is not to bad, also you can use commas in place of decimal points. Soil manages its own PH quite well, but if you wanted you could add in something like a probitoic for the soil and the bacteria and fungas will keep it a bit lower. I like lacobacteria for this. I made a diary entry on how to make your own. Or you could use a PH down product. I would not go below 6,2 in soil though, I aim for aorund 6,4-6,8 overall of the feed going in. Good Luck!

Remove only the bottom ones, after a week or two depending on how healthy I would do a proper defoliation 60-70% of leafs and fan leafs. If you are unsure just ask again, wish all the luck possible 🤞🍀

high bro, your runoff does not show you the EC or pH from the soil. In order to check the EC and pH from your soil you need to follow these steps. 1. Collect samples of soil from the test area. (The soil should be taken from the same depth below the surface each time you test.) It is suggested to take at least two samples per test. The more samples, the more accurate the measurement will be. Take more samples around your plant and mix them. You will get a homogenous sample. 2. Take the homogeneous sample. Weigh out 1 unit soil (100 g is recommended) 3. Add 2 unit (200 ml) distilled water to it. 4. Stir the sample for 30 seconds. 5. Let it sit for 15 minutes. 6. Filter liquid into clean cup. 7. Stir it again, then take your measurement with EC and pH meter. Hold the electrode in the sample min. 1 minute before the reading. When you did this you know how much the EC and pH really are inside your soil. If this is too much work for you then just flush the soil with 2 times the pot volume in water with the right pH and EC. Enjoy your grow buddy!