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Bought a separate vegetation tent 60x60x160 with a Lumii T5 veglight 2x 24watt 6400 Lumen.
Will do an organic growth again in air pots and will use Canna terra plus soil with the Biocanna Organic nutrients.
3/4 seeds germinated. The Runtz didn’t, i have germinated another seed for this one.
Trying to grow with the ppfd guidelines of Telos. The app is a great way to see what ppfd levels you are giving to the plants.
Also compared the app ppfd levels with a measurement of photone. The photone measurements are lower compared with the Telos mash app.
Added nematodes to the substrate and sprayed Canna Cure to feed the leaves. As some Fungus gnats are flying around.
Increased the Led to 50%, 420 ppfd for the coming week.
Plants are doing well. The biscotti mintz is showing some different color in the leaves so added a little more CalMag this time.
Did some low stress training for the first time.
Repotted to 12L airpots and moved to a 120x60cm tent with 2 Telos pro mesh 6 Leds.
Continued wit low stress training and catching flies 😬 changed the ppfd levels to 530ppfd/60%
Added a scrog net and leading the branches throughout the net to have a even and big canopy. Think I just need one more week of veg before turning the clock to 12/12.
Will keep the lights on 60%, 533 ppfd for the coming week of vegetation.
Plants are very healthy, nice deep and dark green and good growth.
Did some defoliation and Will turn the clock to 12 hours light and increase the lights to 70% 622 ppfd for the first 2 weeks of flowering.
If it was insects you'd know. This is going to be either pH related .... Which I don't see listed in your diary, or the beginning signs of a magnesium deficiency/lockout which could be happening because of your pH is off
Plants are doing great, buds starting to form. Runtz en strawberry Lemonade stretching more compared to Biscotti Mintz and Mimosa x Orange punch.
Increases light to 80% 710 ppfd for coming week
Buds are growing well and start to smell. Im amazed by the already formed trichomes and smell of the different strains. Especially Runtz Layer cake and Mimosa x Orange Punch have strong fruity aromas.
Unfortunately Strawberry Lemonade has some yellowing leaves, I try to give only water with a ph of 6,5 for the coming week.
Strawberry Lemonade has yellowing leaves. What should I do to solve it? It is an Organic grow and never measured the ph of my water until now. Ph of my water is 7,7. With the nutrients the ph is 5,7. I alternate between water and nutrition Every 2 days. Runoff water has ph 7,0.
I alternate when i feed. I feed, then 3 days later i water calmag only. I have no issues.
Looks like you are in need of some calmag, though your diary says you are using it. Your pH value of 7.0 is not ideal for nutrient uptake. It's not ideal for calcium uptake either. In fact it's not a good range at all for calcium uptake. You'd be wise to drop it to a 6.2 pH. Calcium is shown to be at the peak availability at a 6.2 pH Magnesium as well. Magnesium is responsible for chloraphyl production so if your plants are turning yellow in flower it could be a solution to just add a little epsom salts. They say calcium take a ride on the back of nitrogen molecules to get to the plant, but in flower nitrogen isn't really used much. It gets confusing sometimes because you are in flower yet it looks like a lack of nitrogen the way they uniformly yellow and the tips curl back and die like that one pic.
I'd suggest you drop that pH to 6.2 on your next feed, and make sure you are giving around 1200ppm in that feed. Things should improve.
I am correcting the ph of the water/nutrients since this week as I am dealing with yellowing leaves of the Strawberry Lemonade.
I think it is already getting a bit better.
Very smelly strains! Buds are getting bigger and the pistils are browning.
Will keep the lights on 90% 800 ppfd for another week.
Buds are getting denser, and overall doing great. We are near the end of flowering and the leaves are slowly turning yellow. Trichomes are still clear but the pistils are browning.
Plants are healthier since I correct the ph. Will keep doing this with next organic grow as well.
Don't do it buddy you will yield less most likely as light in these stages bigger the better the more light absored by the fans the bigger your buds are going to be. I assume your thinking if you lower the lights it may act like the dark period towards the end of a grow when growers will leave plants in darkness for 48-72 hours before harvest this is to try and mature the trichomes abit better making her stronger. though at this stage I think she would be missing out on energy if you put the light down :) best of luck buddy they are some beautifully trained plants well done :)
My plants did not stretch during the first weeks of flowering and are very small plants in the end. Should I give less light during growth? I followed a ppfd schedule from Telos.
you stunt plants with training more, than any small planty genetics could. you still get random size plants when grow from seed. heavy training, intense light will shock them 4sure.
i tried not once to blast plants , hoping they wont run, i personally never atchieved it with like 10 different led lights i tried during those grows and 50 strains or so, but i blasted them during flower, never in veg.
unless you have a real quantum meter, your DLI reading is probably sketchy AF. Looks liek you stripped a ton of leaves. Kinda hard to grow without solar panels, longs and storage of necessary bulding blocks, too.
could be smaller plants. could be light, but if that was the case your nodes would be stacked closer together. I don't see a ton of leaves sprouting from same spots, so there is some spacing there.
if you only did a 4 week vege, some plants won't grow much taller than that, but i think at least some portion of what you see is self-inflicted.
read up on DLI, the wiki is good enough to get the gist. I don't know "telos" so i'm not sure if they bungle it up or not in their explanation. you'd be better off using teh specs of yourlight and guesstimating what PPFD you provide on your own than using any lux-to-dli conversion app on a phone. you'd need several measurements across entire canopy at same distance and then if the app doesn't ask for area (m^2 or sq ft can be converted), it didn't actually calculate ppfd or DLI properly.
35-40 dli is about as high as you can go with ambient co2. YMMV, because several factors impact what "max" is for your local garden. Trial and error is needed. use resulting internode length to adjust intensity. take notes on what ends up working the best, and start there next time... limited adjustments from then on.
12hours vs 18 hours.. that stuff is proportional as long as you keep other factors the same. put the hours of operation you are coming from in the numerator, and that's your factor to adjust power.. 18 to 12h is 18/12 or 3/2 or 150%. This is why you often heard "you need 150% more in flower phase" .. that's only if going from 18h to 12h. if going from 20 down to 12 you need even more relatively speaking per hour (or second). Need 167% of previous power to provide same DLI (give or take.. efficacy of equipment can change at various power which would make a small impact)
hanging distance should be more about properly covering entire area of garden with good, strong light, but can also be used to make adjustments to light intensity. hopefully, it's just hung at the best distance to give you the best average umol/s over entire canopy.
in my experience clones will stretch alot less and seeds and some strains do not stretch alot at all and other strains will double in size its just down to genetics thats all sativas tend to grow much larger than indicas though only if you allow them to. if you haave flowered early like week 3 then not going to be a big plant to begin with so you wont notice much stretch but if you vegged for a long tome she will most likely stretch more. just my opinion :)
RootsmanNL
