LSD-25 DWC (Take 2)

@@@Chi_Town_White_Boy, Thy. yeah i had a hard start here too. Seeds arrived me about 14 days after ordering. then the first seed was dead. hoping for the actual one i think she will make it^^ i hope so i only sprouted one seed

@Mrs_Larimar, back at you! I have a few different FastBuds strains in the mail on their way over right now. Was hoping to do a Cream Cookies grow for the competition, but I think I'm stuck with this diary... 😥 You have some great looking diaries! 💪

@@Chi_Town_White_Boy, not really necessary straight to a day or day and a half flush 👌

@CRiSPrGrow, this is super interesting. So you think that I could give DWC nutes and not worry about sort of “weaning” it off? Just go straight to a flush?

@@Chi_Town_White_Boy, lowering the nutes, yes and no, i wouldn t ... which is kind of what makes dwc so great right? nutes dont "stick" and you can time your chop really well

@@Chi_Town_White_Boy, flirting with the lower boundary of temperature (<16) won't do much harm to your other plants, you're not really risking anything 🚀

@@@Chi_Town_White_Boy, This strain (and all dark colored strains) is genetically formed from the breeders with continuous strain crossing. They take one purple strain wich grows at cold environments like a purple ruderalis and mate it again and again with a different one to the point that the final plant has the desirable characteristics like the LSD-25 turn dark independently of the temps. So i assume that this seed hasn't the right genes to do that, that's why i suggest that the lower temps would wake up the immune system of this plant to turn darker! As i'm not an expert, this is just my opinion after studying and maybe not a general rule! And yes the very low temperatures will efect all the plants in your tent maybe not the colour but the yield for sure, other strains more and other less depending on genetics! 😊

@Astrolavos, this is super interesting! Thanks for the info -- and for pointing me on a new avenue for research. Since I have this strain in a tent with other strains, would the lower temps harm other strains? Really strain dependent? Awesome information here, dude!! 👍👊

@@Chi_Town_White_Boy, I mean that the roots don't go straight from the basket into the water. In my case I use 2 x 30L tubs on on top of the other. The bottom tub has the reservoir the top tub has the basket. The plumbing comes up the side and around the basket, the roots then come out of the. basket and sit at the bottom of the top tub, but never in water, the top tub has holes that drain back into the reservoir. It gives more air to the roots.

@Freddd, very interesting point! That makes a lot of sense. What do you mean about having a “barrier between the reservoir and the roots”? Appreciate the ideas!

@@Chi_Town_White_Boy, got me a bunch too 👌

@CRiSPrGrow, LSD 25 hates topping! It's too quick of a strain IMO. 9 weeks and she's ready for harvest; hardly enough time for her to recover between transition. I've got a couple more of the seeds because I got them during a FastBuds deal....I think I'll do 1 or 2 more of this strain but won't be topping it.

@@Chi_Town_White_Boy, Honestly, the only time I had topping issues was during my first grow, when I was highly ambitious with autoflowers and i topped it while the indoor temp was high and overdosed it with nutrients. it literally stunted her. You shouldn't have topping issues if your plant is healthy and growing well. But you're right, some autoflower strains shouldn't be topped at all because of their short veg time. Photoperiod is different because you get to control your time so time and growth is almost endless :)

@MaryJaneUSA, this has been my experience too - the only exception being LSD-25. It seems to grow very thin and spindly when I top them. Every other strain took topping well. I notice that a lot of people struggle to exceed 60 grams with the strain. There are only a couple growers who seem to hit anywhere near 100g. I like variations in strain colors...I’d just like to pull more than 50g per plant. Have you had any topping issues with any strains?

@@Chi_Town_White_Boy, I used to be a little more defensive when it came to suggestions, but now I am way more open. Someone on here saved me from pulling my plants way too early and from that point on I was all ears.

@BeefWellingtons, I’m always willing to listen to a sound argument!

Thanks for your ideas, @@@@grzesiek! Here's my two cents.... When people are covering their hydroton with paper plates and such, they are trying to cover the RapidRooter/rockwool to prevent algae from growing. The logic is that the RR/RW is wet, and light will cause algae to grow -- I've seen this happen once because my top-feed system was on for like 24 hours. However, you need to be careful with hydroton on a new plant. Hydroton can easily crush, bend, or break a seedling -- I've had it happen. That's why, during my first week, I usually avoid (1) overwatering/over top-feeding and (2) I leave the hydroton away from the seedling. After the seedling grows tall enough to hover over the hydroton, I start to slowly and gently build up a little hydroton mound around the stem. After about 1-1.5 weeks, it's usually covered entirely. I can see the logic in using a paper plate for covering RapidRooters/rockwool, but without covering it with a plate or something, as long as you cover it with hydroton within a week or so and you don't overwater/soak them, you won't have any problem with algae. Regarding covering hydroton, I don't see any point. I have 6" netpots that have probably 6"-8" of hydroton in layers. The RapidRooter/rockwool is at least an inch or two -- and the roots grow downwards. I've had a few roots come to the top, but usually late in the plants life when the thing is full of roots anyway -- those roots figure out that the top is not a good place to be and stop growing. The plant itself will tell the roots to grow downwards towards the water. There is absolutely no way light is getting through 6"-8" of hydroton. Separately, when you check, fill, or replace your reservoir -- there's really no way to avoid exposing roots to light. As long as you're vigilant with light exposure, reservoir temps, and adding healthy bacteria/enzymes -- you'll be fine. You don't want long-term exposure of light, of course. I don't see any value in covering hydroton; there is certainly an argument to be made in covering the RapidRooter/rockwool. I just haven't had problems with algae using this system. Let me know your thoughts! I appreciate you swinging by!!

@CRiSPrGrow, I'm going to post some updates tomorrow. This strain is crazy! It's already flowering at such a small size...not sure if I like that or not. 😏

@@grzesiek, what are you suggesting the problem with not covering hydroton is? light penetration? lack of air? I'm trying to understand why I would need to cover what are essentially clay rocks in 6" deep layers?

@@grzesiek, no way. Again, light cannot pass through solid clay pebbles. Light does not go through rocks. If I had a small layer of hydroton, I would agree. But, again, there is over 6" of gravity-compressed hydroton here...there is no way light is passing through that many layers of solid clay pebbles. I looked up some resources, and here's what TheAquaponicSource.com says: Surface or dry zone (Zone 1) – The first 2″ (50mm) is the light penetration and dry zone. Evaporation from the bed is minimized by the existence of a dry zone. This dry zone also protects the plant base against collar rot. Additionally, by ensuring that this zone is kept dry, algae is prevented from forming on the surface of the grow bed media and moisture related plant diseases such as powdery mildew are minimized. They suggest 2" is necessary to block light. I have way more than that. I'd be willing to bet there's more light penetration through a 90mm bucket than there is through 6" of clay! Thanks for your ideas! I don't have any issues with root rot.