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RQS Royal Jack Automatic first grow

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14 days ago
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Grow Conditions
Week 5
Vegetation
25
cm
inch
Height
18 hrs
Light Schedule
10+ conditions after
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Grow Technique Usage
LST
Technique
Commented by
stoner_doom stoner_doom
a month ago
Day 29 (04/04/2024): Raised the light power to 100% to further control the left plant's flower stretching and give the right plant more light over evenly spread canopy. The exhaust fan was set to turn on on 69% RH to keep the RH around 68%. Rotated the right plant 90 degrees to expose the additional colas to more light. Day 30 (05/04/2024): After raising the light power, the air temperature started to occasionally raise to 26°C. Watered the plants with the leftover solution (1/4 tablet of RQS Easy Grow for 3L and 1 ml Silica for 1L). Given 550 ml to the left plant and 950 ml to the right plant. In about an hour after the watering, the left plant showed some mild symptoms of overwatering. Also the right plant is already entering the pre-flower stage, as some white pistils started to appear. Day 31 (06/04/2024): The left plant continued to stretch the main cola. Removed one small yellowing leaf touching the ground as the result of previous LTS and dead cotyledon leaf from the left plant, one the same kind of ground-touching yellow leaf from the right plant. Day 33 (08/04/2024): The left plant stopped stretching. The right plant is clearly in pre-flower state. Also, because of the warmer weather, the temperature inside the grow box raised to 27 °C, which is very undesirable. The exhaust fan was set to turn on on 68% RH to keep the RH around 67%. Prepared watering solution with 4.5 L of fresh tap water and 1/2 tablet of RQS Easy Grow. Then added silica 1 ml / l and a little bit of fresh water to balance the pH to 6.5 pH. Water the plants, giving 525 ml to the left plant and 1050 ml to the right plant. Removed a dead leaf from the bottom of the left plant. Day 34 (09/04/2024): The right plant is very slowly starting to flower. Yesterday after the watering the left plant once again showed symptoms of overwatering (the third time in a row now), and today I have found yet another yellowing leaf with brown spots at the bottom of the plant. Though at first it seemed to me as a Nitrogen deficiency, later after research I can conclude that it looks like a symptom of overwatering, since the plant was definitely being overwatered for the past two weeks at least and the yellow leaves usually appear specifically after watering the plant. This means further I will try to greatly cut its water intake, starting with giving just 300-350 ml of water the next time, and then slowly raising the amount if plant won't be showing any signs of overwatering. Day 35 (10/04/2024): The grow tent temperatures now stay at 27 °C almost constantly. I have tried pointing usb fan at the light driver, but it didn't work. The right plant is starting to flower. The exhaust fan was set to turn on on 67% RH to keep the RH around 66%.
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Grow Questions
stoner_doom
stoner_doomstarted grow question 19 days ago
7 weeks, autoflower, soil + perlite, giving water with RQS Easy Bloom (half a tablet per 3 liters), pH of the watering mixture is 6.5. The bottom leaves on one of the plants are turning yellow (starting from the tips) and slowly dying , while the top leaves tips look very burnt.
Solved
Leaves. Edges burnt
Leaves. Tips - Burnt
Leaves. Color - Yellow
1 like
Roberts
Robertsanswered grow question 19 days ago
The bottom leavesgoing yellow is from lack of nitrogen. Which in bulking you don't want a lot of nitrogen, it hinders bud development. So I would not worry about the slight yellowing at the very bottom. The discoloration on top and rest looks like first stage of potassium deficiency. It is not excess nutrition because in excess the tips turn brown and curl up and in. Your tips are brown and straight with leaf discoloration in canopy in areas. Plus being in bulking the plant wants a lot of phosphorus and potassium to develop the flowers. Flowering npk ratio is 1-2-3. So between looks and facts I think it wants more potassium. Since it is not available it's drawing it from the leaf tips, and pigment in upper canopy areas. IMO
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Jack11
Jack11week 3
Hi. You have SF1000D with dimmer ? Didnt know that "D" have dimmer. If it is new SF1000 with concentrated leds in corners, you can save electricity costs with much lower distances and less power adjustment. Ideal for 2 plants in pots up to 3gal, or 4 pots up to 2gal. Simply glow directly above plants with leds concentrated in corners, with half distance and half-quarter power ;) Less power means less heat... It works upto 3.-4. week, then plants canopy is bigger than light angle (and pot area too :D )
stoner_doom
stoner_doom
@Jack11, It's just SF1000, but there is no 100 W SF1000 in the website's database for some reason, so I put down SF1000D.
Lemonhazelover
Lemonhazeloverweek 1
Nice choise strain, good luck buddy ☘️
James
Jamesweek 0
Loooking great mate! Good luck and happy growing 🌱🚀
MR_Poof_K93
MR_Poof_K93week 0
😊🌴