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Tangie Auto (Box, Soil, LED) โ€” Buddha Seeds

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9 hours ago
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LED/200W
PB2000 (LM281B)
LED/200W
PB2000 (LM281B)
Indoor
Room Type
LST
weeks 1-4, 4
FIMing
weeks 3
ScrOG
weeks 4, 4-6
Defoliation
weeks 6
Soil
Grow medium
Perlite
Grow medium
Vermiculite
Grow medium
Coco Coir
Grow medium
Mycorrhiza
Grow medium
Grow Conditions
Week 5
Vegetation
35
cm
inch
Height
20 hrs
Light Schedule
14+ conditions after
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Nutrients
ml/l
ml/gal
tsp/gal
1+ nutrients after
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Grow Technique Usage
ScrOG
Technique
Commented by
tangie tangie
7 days ago
She's a very bushy plant! At about 25cm high (20 under the screen), she's already occupying about 50% of net area. I'll try to add a photo of the stem later. It's quite tight and leafy there right now. Added 4 x 12W strips with blue and red LEDs, currently running at 28W total. Purpose: transmit light energy to "undergrowth" and scrog-tucked fans. Spotted first tiny stigmas on some sites at day 30. Yay!
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Grow Questions
tangie
tangiestarted grow question 20 days ago
Any feedback and / or suggestions on improving my FIMing technique ๐ŸŽ‹ are welcome! Beginning of week 3. For the next week (FIM recovery) should I keep adding Micro (2-0-0)? Iโ€™ve seen suggestions to ease off on Nitrogen for a week, but the bottles say always use all three parts
Solved
Techniques. FIMing
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BerrySweetHigh
BerrySweetHighanswered grow question 20 days ago
Hello tang1e, The FIM looks great! No, don't change the amount of nutrients. Your plant is healthy so you are giving the right amount. The FIM does not change anything about the nutrients intake from your plant. Happy Growing Buddy! ๐Ÿ’š
tangie
tangiestarted grow question 14 days ago
First grow. Looking at FIM results I'm super confused! It looks like if I had waited for the next segment to emerge and topped it (pics), I would get the same 4 branches (potential colas) AND 4 fan leaves which I have lost now due to FIM? Did FIM benefit here at all vs Topping?
Open
Techniques. Topping
Techniques. FIMing
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Answer
Organoman
Organomananswered grow question 12 days ago
Tried fimming over a couple of years and will never do it again........results are too slow to recover and too random in their success/failure ratio. Plain topping can be 100% successful, predictable and less stressful to the plant too. After trying every "technique" out there over the last 40 years, all I ever do now is LST and very ocassionally a topping if needed to control height on super tall sativas, otherwise, low stress training is the best option and the one technique that causes the smallest amount of disturbance to the plant...imo.
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MalumProhibitum
MalumProhibitumanswered grow question 13 days ago
Excellent question! Short answer: Stoner science ๐Ÿ˜‹ Long answer: You could just train the plant and expose the side branches to get same results + the extra leaves like you mentioned. The same goes for topping, where you can just train the plant, expose the side-suckers to the light (normally they get shaded by the main top, while forcing the top growth downwards. By limiting light exposure to the main top-growth and force it downwards you let more light hit the suckers, who will start growing and develop to 2x new tops, while the original top grows horisontally and develops 2 new suckers and the process goes on until you have enough colas and switch to 12/12 light. Example: growdiaries.com/diaries/191839-barney-039-s-farm-dos-si-dos-33-grow-journal-by-malumprohibitum/week/1105741 Hope it helps! ๐Ÿ‘๐Ÿ˜‰ --Good luck!
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tangie
tangiestarted grow question 3 days ago
For a better yield, should I aggressively (but gently) bend main leading branches and tuck all shading fans to expose young 'undergrowth' branches (circled) and bud sites to light, or, inversely, untuck fans and straighten leading branches to give more light energy to them?
Solved
Techniques. LST
Techniques. ScrOG
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001100010010011110
001100010010011110answered grow question 3 days ago
surface area is the key. if you make more holes in the canopy and more light passes through the plant without hitting a leaf, it is a net-negative. ATP, the primary product of photosynthesis, is highly mobile. Apical dominance dictates where it is used, and not dictated by where it was produced. It goes from the leaves into the phloem for use when not stored. where the light hits does not dictate where the sugars will be used. there's other reasons to try to reduced proportion of larf and this or that, but in the end it mainly just reduces yield, which is fine if you have no use for larf. I don't do extracts so i try to lolipop the trash at bottom. i try to have a good understanding of how deep my plants produce good buds and stick within that range. Sounds counter-intuitive but try to stick to 2.5-3 colas per sq ft. you'll minimize larf and get awesome light penetration too without any effort while still have a solid canopy with no gaps as it fills out. If you want less trash buds, that's the best way to go.
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tangie
tangieweek 5
@001100010010011110, i don't give a shit if you select an answer, lol - the least important thing is that contest That's perfectly fine by me, I'm asking questions to gain knowledge. I'm sure if you do it enuogh you can find the point at which you get nearly guaranteed results but wether its 2+1 or 2+2 or 2+3 is maybe less certain (2 axilllary buds that exist plus what comes out of the mutilated growth tip). And this is exactly what I'm trying to understand โ€” where those "extra" nodes are supposed to pop out from? I'm not yet intimately familiar with the plant's anatomy, and it probably varies a lot depending on genetic composition. What I saw with my plant is that early veg structure is the following: there are nodes with two symmetrical fans on either side of the plant, and they rotate ~90 degrees on the next node, meaning the leaves are N-S on one node, then E-W on the next one etc. Branches grow just above petioles from the same "attachment" points, one branch per fan. So, my thinking was, if you Top (clip a grown internode in the centre), you keep the branches the plant already had, and after a quick wtf the plant redirects growth to those branches within 2-3 levels (nodes) below the cut. If you FIM, at least the way it's taught almost everywhere, you effectively top a yet-undeveloped internode and also damage two fans. Hopefully, the branches growing out of this node are small enough that you don't damage them, and thus you get the same as you would get after Topping, minus two healthy fans on the top remaining node. Same number of nodes, same number of branches, even if the top two branches are just tiny green dots you can barely distinguish at the time of clipping. Now, if the plant is capable of growing additional (extra) branches which do not follow the scheme I described above, I would be interested to know where they can grow from? Can more than two branches grow from one node? Can additional branches appear on internodes? I'm talking about regular healthy plants of common genetics, not some mutant oddities. It appears that later in the cycle, the node structure begins to change, and fans do not necessarily "attach" on the same level. There can be one fan and one branch, and then slightly above there'll be the second fan with its branch. It's kind of a "single-leaf/branch-node". Not sure if I managed to explain myself clearly enough, but in short my question is "where the fuck would those extra branches grow from", specific points/areas on the plant. And when they're called "extra" how do people know that the plant would not have grown exactly the same amount of branches, had the plant been topped (as in clipped in the middle of a developed internode)?
tangie
tangieweek 3
@modmyplants Thanks a lot for answering my question! I have uploaded another photo to week 3 which is much more true to the actual plant colour. Camera gets colours too wrong, but I didn't realise it was of importance for this question and didn't bother fixing it.
modmyplants
modmyplants
@tangie, yes the color looks better on the photo now. But still wouldnt cut out Nitrogen. Its quintessential for the growth. Color is always the first appearing indicator for certain things and good to know about, since then you wont have any damage and can react in time.
tangie
tangieweek 5
@001100010010011110 Thank you for your in-depth and technical answer to my ScrOG tucking question! It all makes sense now. I didn't know that ATP was that mobile. I learn as I go :D It would be great if you could review my other unanswered question on FIMing vs Topping, if you're experienced with those techniques. I have not yet found any credible, factual evidence that FIMing can lead to more branches/colas being produced vs Topping. People talk about FIM producing "3, 4 or even up to 7" leading colas instead of the original one, but I see no pictures or data to support that. Where do those extra branches grow out from? And this actually links well to your previous answer, because in FIMing you lose two fans. If you top and keep the fans, they will provide your plant with more ATP, which, I assume, would lead to faster and easier recovery and higher net leaf surface area of the plant at any later point in time, if (hypothetically) compared to exactly the same plant, growing in exactly same conditions, but FIMed above (at) the same node. Is this ("FIMing can produce more colas than Topping") just a completely fabricated self-perpetuating urban legend, or what? Thanks! Edit: By "unanswered" I meant to say that I have received very valuable advice, and I appreciate that a lot, but I have not received a direct answer to my very specific question :)
001100010010011110
001100010010011110
@tangie, i don't give a shit if you select an answer, lol - the least important thing is that contest. and, you'll find a lot of people don't beleive what i said, but is in fact true. fimming is topping. topping is mutilating a portion of the plant to cause auxin to distribute more widely, causing more widely distributed growth. All that happens with a "FIM is that you don't quite cut off the growth tip and what remains can recover and form new axillary branches. You don't need to cut the fan leaves, like you said, so avoid it - just a portion of the growth tip is necessary. It's unpredictable and tough to plan around, so not something i've tried more than a few times for shits and grins. I'm sure if you do it enuogh you can find the point at which you get nearly guaranteed results but wether its 2+1 or 2+2 or 2+3 is maybe less certain (2 axilllary buds that exist plus what comes out of the mutilated growth tip). training will always be more efficient as far as saving vege time vs pruning growth off. There's no circumventing rate of growth that results from your environemnt. We can spread it out, but we can't change the overall rate too much. is it more efficient growth if spread out? maybe? but i wouldn't assume that. cutting off growth always is wasted resources/time. not saying it isn't useful or good to do, but that is what needs to be balanced when choosing to do so. With that sad i do both. i probably cost myself a 1-3 days of extra vege but it's a better distributed canopy - foundation of canopy anyway. As far as canopy management, i'd strongly recommend having an end goal/target and working backward from that to compose a strategy to get there. 2.5-3 colas per sq ft will ensure max yield and excellent light penetration while also fully covering the area. FIM'ing is 'neat' to showcase, but not something you can plan around consistently. it takes a little faith because even the first week of flower it's not fully filled in, but it'll get there. I'm sure i said it already -- cocoforcannabis.com has the best information with the least bro-science corruption. the guides and the dr photon's corner articles are all good. bruce bugbee is also another excellent no-frills source. IF it sounds like and advertisment with lots of bold promises, it's probably bogus information. "25% greater yield!" bullshit, lol.. unless it's supplementing co2, and even that isn't cost-effective.
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IstrGrow
IstrGrowweek 1
Happy growing! Look's great! Good luck ๐Ÿ˜บ๐Ÿ˜บ
tangie
tangie
@IstrGrow, Thank you brother! Spontaneously started my first proper sensor-controlled box grow (was planning to plant outdoors originally) under relentless guidance of ChatGPT 4 ๐Ÿ˜ Catching up on literature and best practices as I go along.
OppaGanjaStyle
OppaGanjaStyleweek 1
Happy growing! Enjoy it! ๐Ÿ‘ฝ๐Ÿ˜ฎโ€๐Ÿ’จ
tangie
tangie
@OppaGanjaStyle, ๐Ÿ™ I am enjoying it now, in the only moment that really exists :) Such a healing experience of re-connection with nature!
tangie
tangieweek 5
๐ŸŒž๐ŸŒž๐ŸŒž Added 4 x 12W strips with blue and red LEDs, currently running at 28W (7W x 4) total. Purpose: transmit light energy to "undergrowth" and scrog-tucked fans, help lower level branches. Will see if she responds well.
tangie
tangieweek 4
Experimenting with CO2 tabs. Put one in a soda can filled with water and placed the can inside the tent at the beginning of the "day". The room was semi-sealed also.
tangie
tangieweek 2
She's responding to increased LED power and 1/2 nutrient solution very well. ๐ŸŒž๐ŸŒž๐ŸŒž The lamp is currently at PPFD 850 umol/m2/s
tangie
tangieweek 1
๐Ÿ’ฆ๐Ÿ’ฆ๐Ÿ’ฆ Tap water pH came back at 8.0, Advanced Nutrients pH Perfect 3-part 1/2 solution (Micro + Grow + Bloom) based on the same water came back at 6.5, fully justifying the name of the product! Tested with HMD PH-80.