DWC How to AUTOFLOWERS

@JUNGLE_B4RNS,I have got a 150 watt FS LED coming

@KonopCh, I did not mean that as you had missed stated anything I only was providing supplemental information and letting anyone following this know that 69 is not a set number just like 2 is not a set number for EC conversion it is specific to the tester (there are 2 types)

@Tazard1, I know that, and I told that factor 69 is for... what I told above.

@KonopCh, keep in mind that factor of 69 will change based on the color of light you have. All red for instance would produce less lux than the same intensity as all blue. Since blue is weighted much more heavily than red in lumens

@CrazyDiamond, I 100% agree with you! All I had pointed out was that LUX was not a useful measurement of typical spectrums emitted by LED's. I would love to discuss PAR, PPF and PPFD as well as the spectrums (individual wavelengths emitted together) that MJ responds to, particularly your thoughts on ~300, ~530, ~ 730nm as well as any documentation you may have collected with respect to plant respone due to exposure to those three wavelengths as well as the critical night.

@Tazard1,but even a PAR don't gives you a true picture, how the curient light effective, untill you look at the spectrum. Fore example you have HPS wich pics at 550-600nm, and LED with pics at 480nm and 660nm, both have the same PAR, - the LED will be as 70-80% more effective than HPS because of useless wavelength pic of it.

@BigDaddyK, https://www.licor.com/env/applications/photosynthetically.html

@FredM,good luck !

@rdrunner,I will say it is very even , also seems to have higher readings than an HPS at longer distances , next week I'll add an HPS and we can see the difference 👍

@Tazard1,I think mine is 18 C

@BigDaddyK, root rot is caused by anaerobic conditions cool water is able to have a higher dissolved oxygen content than warm water generally a DWC should be kept 65 to 68°F 72F is the magic number for a typical air stone setup. However, more bubbles is somewhat proportional to lower temperature although 72°F water will never retain the dissolved oxygen of 68°F water. H2O2 can also be added to increase the oxygen content of the water. The "bugs" also allow for slightly warmer reservoir temperatures too. Light depletes oxygen in water by allowing bacteria and organisms to use the oxygen from the water so no openings and don't allow a clear hose to act as a fiber optic. I use black hoses or cover clear ones so they can't transfer the light.

@Tazard1, so below that is good ? Is 68+ when you get the rot ?

@BigDaddyK, oh okay good to know. Yeh I've trimmed the ones at bottom that where wilting. But well into flower now. Covered in white hairs so I'll leave this

@islandgrows89,it makes a lot of difference , if you cut them in flower it upsets them , but if you do it before it flowers it is ok . Always pull the wispy shit off the bottom and the tops get fatter 👍

@BigDaddyK, does it make much difference cutting fan leaves off autos. Not all but ones near bottom. Been wanting to do it. But been told no don't do this don't do that. Stunts it blah blah blah

@CaciqueCayacoa,made for Saudi Arabian Greenhouses.

@BigDaddyK, alright, thanks. When you mentioned "liquid ice" will help with heat a couple of weeks ago, I swear I thought you were talking about water itself and just being ironic :D

@CaciqueCayacoa,i think HYDROGARDEN are world wide distributors.

@BigDaddyK,super sticky?

@Darkmanx,the time it took

@Lucky777,sorry I forgot about this , I took 2 nice jars off her for about 5 ounces , there was a fair bit left but the trimming was ball ache , so it was made into oil ,

@rdrunner, I was only saying that if you're starting water had a higher TDS rating which is generally calcium and magnesium that your portions of pH down would increase. A person with a starting water of say 350 would need considerably more pH down than a person starting with the TDS of 180. This is why most nutrient manufacturers will recommend that RO water be stabilized to at least 180 ppm prior to use. Provides a more stable pH.

@Tazard1, I am aware that PH is neither a linear scale nor easy to estimate when mixing liquids... Thats why I put the (~7) there... This only applies to my water at around 7isch values. Its a rough estimate but works fairly well in the narrow band i use for growth. Works fairly decent for eyeballing values... If you need to move it a lot you need to be aware that it is a log. And after I am done i measure again also.... But it helps to reduce the numbers i need to mix the water up

@rdrunner, The amount that your pH down will move your pH has to do with your calcium and magnesium content of the water more calcium and magnesium will act as a buffer and therefore will require more pH down to move the pH level.

@ForestGreen,yeah it's in with the tutankhamon

@BigDaddyK, when you say 12/12 do you mean it was just in with some photos? I know what you mean, most of mine end up being 11-12 weeks. Been ages since I've had a fast finisher. Still most of them show per-flowers around 3 weeks. I guess it depends on when you take flowering from. Anyway man very nice looking plant.

@ForestGreen,to be honest , I think it's just the way it grows , 12/12 might have helped , but when plants get bigger it seems to take the full 12 weeks to get to maturity . I'd love to finish one in under 10 weeks. Even my cherry bomb auto , which is under 150 watt led , 24/24 will not be in flower til week 6 . Big takes longer , I think that's all it is .

@BigDaddyK,still real nice result mate . 😀

@Fergie,maybe half that , I trimmed a couple of jars , it's not the easiest lol

@BigDaddyK,nice obviously hps use more power but quality wise will be good to compare

@biggreens420,I have begun - Led is on the Cherry Bomb

@Hawkbo,oi , yours are pretty exceptional.

@Sillyasswhitedude,well leds definitely take longer , but maybe it's more natural,I see huge buds with HPS , but I'm not sure that's better , I have had one smoke of leds , when this one and the cherry bomb are done I'll give you an answer , personally if you are a hobby grower I think they are ideal, less heat , less power , results good enough , but be prepared to wait , I might have to restructure some feed schedules to allow for this , I will say the buds are more uniform which I would say is a result of more focussed light , if you were a professional I would go HPS , with MH for first weeks then a finishing bulb at the end , or be looking at a gravita .