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DWC How to AUTOFLOWERS

27
117
117
8332
6 years ago
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27
HID/600W
Light
LED/440W
Light
Indoor
Room Type
LST
weeks Technique
Defoliation
weeks Technique
Grow Conditions
Week 11
Flowering
74
cm
inch
Height
12 hrs
Light Schedule
11+ conditions after
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Nutrients
ml/l
ml/gal
tsp/gal
3+ nutrients after
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Commented by
BigDaddyK BigDaddyK
6 years ago
plodding along, its not really eatinga lot but it is progressing , if anyone else wants to know autos take longer in 12/12 . see week 1 for setup . ITS POSSIBLE YOU ARE ARE READY BY NOW, SO LOOK FOR COLOUR OF HAIRS... NOT IN dom FOR REFERENCE ONLY.
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ClubRiot
ClubRiotweek 1
good initiative to help those who want to grow in DWC. good luck!👍
JUNGLE_B4RNS
JUNGLE_B4RNSweek 3
Every Lights is heat , photons creates heat when they hit a surface . You shall try to start young seedlings under neon tubes, a ballast with 2 tubes will cost you around 70 queed and you would be saving electricity (cost) on the first weeks .
BigDaddyK
BigDaddyK
@JUNGLE_B4RNS,I have got a 150 watt FS LED coming
rdrunner
rdrunnerweek 3
@BigDaddyK , @Tazzard1 You dont need a PAR detector. They are expensive as hell... You can get away with lux and use a ballpark conversion factor for your light to convert it to PAR. "Ballpark" in this case means about 5% range. For white Cobs (at 3000K) you can use 70 to convert Lux into par. Yes folks will cry, but its real close ;) So your plants are getting about 630 Par at 80 cm
Tazard
Tazard
@KonopCh, I did not mean that as you had missed stated anything I only was providing supplemental information and letting anyone following this know that 69 is not a set number just like 2 is not a set number for EC conversion it is specific to the tester (there are 2 types)
Blablabla
Blablabla
@Tazard1, I know that, and I told that factor 69 is for... what I told above.
Tazard
Tazard
@KonopCh, keep in mind that factor of 69 will change based on the color of light you have. All red for instance would produce less lux than the same intensity as all blue. Since blue is weighted much more heavily than red in lumens
Load more (2)
Tazard
Tazardweek 3
Lux is not a valid measurement for light from an LED. Lux is a measure of lumens per square foot. Lumens is a measure of intensity of light as visible to the human eye. PAR is a measure of light that is usable by plants. LEDs emit light at very narrow wavelengths (one per LED). There are many good articles on the subject.
Tazard
Tazard
@CrazyDiamond, I 100% agree with you! All I had pointed out was that LUX was not a useful measurement of typical spectrums emitted by LED's. I would love to discuss PAR, PPF and PPFD as well as the spectrums (individual wavelengths emitted together) that MJ responds to, particularly your thoughts on ~300, ~530, ~ 730nm as well as any documentation you may have collected with respect to plant respone due to exposure to those three wavelengths as well as the critical night.
CrazyDiamond
CrazyDiamond
@Tazard1,but even a PAR don't gives you a true picture, how the curient light effective, untill you look at the spectrum. Fore example you have HPS wich pics at 550-600nm, and LED with pics at 480nm and 660nm, both have the same PAR, - the LED will be as 70-80% more effective than HPS because of useless wavelength pic of it.
Tazard
Tazard
@BigDaddyK, https://www.licor.com/env/applications/photosynthetically.html
Load more (2)
FredM
FredMweek 13
Nice diary! I switch to DWC too. Thanks for explanations!
BigDaddyK
BigDaddyK
@FredM,good luck !
rdrunner
rdrunnerweek 3
@BigDaddyK Yep - Exact folks will tell you it depends on spectrum and ist not exact... But it's a fairly close estimate, and you can get away with it without issues.
BigDaddyK
BigDaddyK
@rdrunner,I will say it is very even , also seems to have higher readings than an HPS at longer distances , next week I'll add an HPS and we can see the difference 👍
ScotlandDrGreen420
ScotlandDrGreen420week 1
rdrunner
rdrunnerweek 3
Thats normal... The LED is much more focused so it will retain the light better. A HPS is only a "point" as a light source that spreads evenly
biggreens420
biggreens420week 2
Nice I'm Always looking to learn I'll be following
Ted
Tedweek 2
Haha bro, nice tutorial! I tried this dwc stuff like 10 times or so but couldnt get it the right way. Temps are to high in my region so i would have to use a chiller...
BigDaddyK
BigDaddyK
@Tazard1,I think mine is 18 C
Tazard
Tazard
@BigDaddyK, root rot is caused by anaerobic conditions cool water is able to have a higher dissolved oxygen content than warm water generally a DWC should be kept 65 to 68°F 72F is the magic number for a typical air stone setup. However, more bubbles is somewhat proportional to lower temperature although 72°F water will never retain the dissolved oxygen of 68°F water. H2O2 can also be added to increase the oxygen content of the water. The "bugs" also allow for slightly warmer reservoir temperatures too. Light depletes oxygen in water by allowing bacteria and organisms to use the oxygen from the water so no openings and don't allow a clear hose to act as a fiber optic. I use black hoses or cover clear ones so they can't transfer the light.
BigDaddyK
BigDaddyK
@Tazard1, so below that is good ? Is 68+ when you get the rot ?
Load more (7)
Herne
Herneweek 5
what lps is your air pump running at
islandgrows89
islandgrows89
@BigDaddyK, oh okay good to know. Yeh I've trimmed the ones at bottom that where wilting. But well into flower now. Covered in white hairs so I'll leave this
BigDaddyK
BigDaddyK
@islandgrows89,it makes a lot of difference , if you cut them in flower it upsets them , but if you do it before it flowers it is ok . Always pull the wispy shit off the bottom and the tops get fatter 👍
islandgrows89
islandgrows89
@BigDaddyK, does it make much difference cutting fan leaves off autos. Not all but ones near bottom. Been wanting to do it. But been told no don't do this don't do that. Stunts it blah blah blah
Load more (5)
BigDaddyK
BigDaddyKweek 2
PLEASE SEE WEEK 1 FOR SETUP
CaciqueCayacoa
CaciqueCayacoaweek 2
I can't find the liquid ice to buy online, any suggestions?
BigDaddyK
BigDaddyK
@CaciqueCayacoa,made for Saudi Arabian Greenhouses.
CaciqueCayacoa
CaciqueCayacoa
@BigDaddyK, alright, thanks. When you mentioned "liquid ice" will help with heat a couple of weeks ago, I swear I thought you were talking about water itself and just being ironic :D
BigDaddyK
BigDaddyK
@CaciqueCayacoa,i think HYDROGARDEN are world wide distributors.
Load more (3)
Lucky777
Lucky777week 14
What was the final dry weight? I’m sure we are all curious as I am
Darkmanx
Darkmanx
@BigDaddyK,super sticky?
BigDaddyK
BigDaddyK
@Darkmanx,the time it took
BigDaddyK
BigDaddyK
@Lucky777,sorry I forgot about this , I took 2 nice jars off her for about 5 ounces , there was a fair bit left but the trimming was ball ache , so it was made into oil ,
Load more (2)
rdrunner
rdrunnerweek 1
About the PH UP/Down... I dilute my stuff about 1:10 so its usable on a small reservoir (20 l only) The diluted version moves 0.1 PH (~7) per ml now, which is handy... And I use a syringe for dosage (everything)
Tazard
Tazard
@rdrunner, I was only saying that if you're starting water had a higher TDS rating which is generally calcium and magnesium that your portions of pH down would increase. A person with a starting water of say 350 would need considerably more pH down than a person starting with the TDS of 180. This is why most nutrient manufacturers will recommend that RO water be stabilized to at least 180 ppm prior to use. Provides a more stable pH.
rdrunner
rdrunner
@Tazard1, I am aware that PH is neither a linear scale nor easy to estimate when mixing liquids... Thats why I put the (~7) there... This only applies to my water at around 7isch values. Its a rough estimate but works fairly well in the narrow band i use for growth. Works fairly decent for eyeballing values... If you need to move it a lot you need to be aware that it is a log. And after I am done i measure again also.... But it helps to reduce the numbers i need to mix the water up
Tazard
Tazard
@rdrunner, The amount that your pH down will move your pH has to do with your calcium and magnesium content of the water more calcium and magnesium will act as a buffer and therefore will require more pH down to move the pH level.
Load more (1)
ForestGreen
ForestGreenweek 8
Wow man the branching on that plant is crazy. Nice idea to do a How To diary. Never grown DWC myself but maybe one day. I see this plant didn't start flower until week 6. That's pretty late for an auto. Do you have any good tips for prolonging veg with autos, or is it just strain dependent?
BigDaddyK
BigDaddyK
@ForestGreen,yeah it's in with the tutankhamon
ForestGreen
ForestGreen
@BigDaddyK, when you say 12/12 do you mean it was just in with some photos? I know what you mean, most of mine end up being 11-12 weeks. Been ages since I've had a fast finisher. Still most of them show per-flowers around 3 weeks. I guess it depends on when you take flowering from. Anyway man very nice looking plant.
BigDaddyK
BigDaddyK
@ForestGreen,to be honest , I think it's just the way it grows , 12/12 might have helped , but when plants get bigger it seems to take the full 12 weeks to get to maturity . I'd love to finish one in under 10 weeks. Even my cherry bomb auto , which is under 150 watt led , 24/24 will not be in flower til week 6 . Big takes longer , I think that's all it is .
Fergie
Fergieweek 14
Banging harvest mate 😀 what you reckon 350 dry or so ?
Fergie
Fergie
@BigDaddyK,still real nice result mate . 😀
BigDaddyK
BigDaddyK
@Fergie,maybe half that , I trimmed a couple of jars , it's not the easiest lol
biggreens420
biggreens420week 4
Get a test done and find out which is best would be interesting to see..
biggreens420
biggreens420
@BigDaddyK,nice obviously hps use more power but quality wise will be good to compare
BigDaddyK
BigDaddyK
@biggreens420,I have begun - Led is on the Cherry Bomb
Hawkbo
Hawkboweek 14
U making us look bad bro good shit
BigDaddyK
BigDaddyK
@Hawkbo,oi , yours are pretty exceptional.
Sillyasswhitedude
Sillyasswhitedudeweek 13
I would like to know your final conclusion on bud quality...and its relation to the light source it was grown under...dude I really appreciate your straight forward approach of knowledge sharing and your form of teaching...I hope you get a little down time from work for the holidays and catch a break...at any rate I'm looking forward to the verdict on bud density and quality and such...I have noticed my auto grows have taken a little longer than some others I have seen...which I don't mind if the quality is there...it appears to me that you have ran an array of light sources over the years and I would be more than happy to know your final conclusion on all fronts...Happy Holidays wish you the best!!!
BigDaddyK
BigDaddyK
@Sillyasswhitedude,well leds definitely take longer , but maybe it's more natural,I see huge buds with HPS , but I'm not sure that's better , I have had one smoke of leds , when this one and the cherry bomb are done I'll give you an answer , personally if you are a hobby grower I think they are ideal, less heat , less power , results good enough , but be prepared to wait , I might have to restructure some feed schedules to allow for this , I will say the buds are more uniform which I would say is a result of more focussed light , if you were a professional I would go HPS , with MH for first weeks then a finishing bulb at the end , or be looking at a gravita .