AK Automatic grow diary (journal) week13 by BigDaddyK

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FredMcommentedweek 137 years ago

Nice diary! I switch to DWC too. Thanks for explanations!

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ClubRiotcommentedweek 17 years ago

good initiative to help those who want to grow in DWC. good luck!👍

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JUNGLE_B4RNScommentedweek 37 years ago

Every Lights is heat , photons creates heat when they hit a surface . You shall try to start young seedlings under neon tubes, a ballast with 2 tubes will cost you around 70 queed and you would be saving electricity (cost) on the first weeks .

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BigDaddyKcommented7 years ago

@JUNGLE_B4RNS,I have got a 150 watt FS LED coming

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rdrunnercommentedweek 37 years ago

@BigDaddyK , @Tazzard1 You dont need a PAR detector. They are expensive as hell... You can get away with lux and use a ballpark conversion factor for your light to convert it to PAR. "Ballpark" in this case means about 5% range. For white Cobs (at 3000K) you can use 70 to convert Lux into par. Yes folks will cry, but its real close ;) So your plants are getting about 630 Par at 80 cm

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Tazardcommented7 years ago

@KonopCh, I did not mean that as you had missed stated anything I only was providing supplemental information and letting anyone following this know that 69 is not a set number just like 2 is not a set number for EC conversion it is specific to the tester (there are 2 types)

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Blablablacommented7 years ago

@Tazard1, I know that, and I told that factor 69 is for... what I told above.

Tazardcommented7 years ago

@KonopCh, keep in mind that factor of 69 will change based on the color of light you have. All red for instance would produce less lux than the same intensity as all blue. Since blue is weighted much more heavily than red in lumens

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Tazardcommentedweek 37 years ago

Lux is not a valid measurement for light from an LED. Lux is a measure of lumens per square foot. Lumens is a measure of intensity of light as visible to the human eye. PAR is a measure of light that is usable by plants. LEDs emit light at very narrow wavelengths (one per LED). There are many good articles on the subject.

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Tazardcommented7 years ago

@CrazyDiamond, I 100% agree with you! All I had pointed out was that LUX was not a useful measurement of typical spectrums emitted by LED's. I would love to discuss PAR, PPF and PPFD as well as the spectrums (individual wavelengths emitted together) that MJ responds to, particularly your thoughts on ~300, ~530, ~ 730nm as well as any documentation you may have collected with respect to plant respone due to exposure to those three wavelengths as well as the critical night.

CrazyDiamondcommented7 years ago

@Tazard1,but even a PAR don't gives you a true picture, how the curient light effective, untill you look at the spectrum. Fore example you have HPS wich pics at 550-600nm, and LED with pics at 480nm and 660nm, both have the same PAR, - the LED will be as 70-80% more effective than HPS because of useless wavelength pic of it.

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Tazardcommented7 years ago

@BigDaddyK, https://www.licor.com/env/applications/photosynthetically.html

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FredMcommentedweek 137 years ago

Nice diary! I switch to DWC too. Thanks for explanations!

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BigDaddyKcommented7 years ago

@FredM,good luck !

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rdrunnercommentedweek 37 years ago

@BigDaddyK Yep - Exact folks will tell you it depends on spectrum and ist not exact... But it's a fairly close estimate, and you can get away with it without issues.

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BigDaddyKcommented7 years ago

@rdrunner,I will say it is very even , also seems to have higher readings than an HPS at longer distances , next week I'll add an HPS and we can see the difference 👍

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ScotlandDrGreen420commentedweek 17 years ago

@lenson123

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rdrunnercommentedweek 37 years ago

Thats normal... The LED is much more focused so it will retain the light better. A HPS is only a "point" as a light source that spreads evenly

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biggreens420commentedweek 27 years ago

Nice I'm Always looking to learn I'll be following

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Tedcommentedweek 27 years ago

Haha bro, nice tutorial! I tried this dwc stuff like 10 times or so but couldnt get it the right way. Temps are to high in my region so i would have to use a chiller...

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BigDaddyKcommented7 years ago

@Tazard1,I think mine is 18 C

Tazardcommented7 years ago

@BigDaddyK, root rot is caused by anaerobic conditions cool water is able to have a higher dissolved oxygen content than warm water generally a DWC should be kept 65 to 68°F 72F is the magic number for a typical air stone setup. However, more bubbles is somewhat proportional to lower temperature although 72°F water will never retain the dissolved oxygen of 68°F water. H2O2 can also be added to increase the oxygen content of the water. The "bugs" also allow for slightly warmer reservoir temperatures too. Light depletes oxygen in water by allowing bacteria and organisms to use the oxygen from the water so no openings and don't allow a clear hose to act as a fiber optic. I use black hoses or cover clear ones so they can't transfer the light.

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BigDaddyKcommented7 years ago

@Tazard1, so below that is good ? Is 68+ when you get the rot ?

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Hernecommentedweek 57 years ago

what lps is your air pump running at

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islandgrows89commented7 years ago

@BigDaddyK, oh okay good to know. Yeh I've trimmed the ones at bottom that where wilting. But well into flower now. Covered in white hairs so I'll leave this

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BigDaddyKcommented7 years ago

@islandgrows89,it makes a lot of difference , if you cut them in flower it upsets them , but if you do it before it flowers it is ok . Always pull the wispy shit off the bottom and the tops get fatter 👍

islandgrows89commented7 years ago

@BigDaddyK, does it make much difference cutting fan leaves off autos. Not all but ones near bottom. Been wanting to do it. But been told no don't do this don't do that. Stunts it blah blah blah

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BigDaddyKcommentedweek 27 years ago

PLEASE SEE WEEK 1 FOR SETUP

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CaciqueCayacoacommentedweek 27 years ago

I can't find the liquid ice to buy online, any suggestions?

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BigDaddyKcommented7 years ago

@CaciqueCayacoa,made for Saudi Arabian Greenhouses.

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CaciqueCayacoacommented7 years ago

@BigDaddyK, alright, thanks. When you mentioned "liquid ice" will help with heat a couple of weeks ago, I swear I thought you were talking about water itself and just being ironic :D

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BigDaddyKcommented7 years ago

@CaciqueCayacoa,i think HYDROGARDEN are world wide distributors.

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Lucky777commentedweek 147 years ago

What was the final dry weight? I’m sure we are all curious as I am

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Darkmanxcommented7 years ago

@BigDaddyK,super sticky?

BigDaddyKcommented7 years ago

@Darkmanx,the time it took

BigDaddyKcommented7 years ago

@Lucky777,sorry I forgot about this , I took 2 nice jars off her for about 5 ounces , there was a fair bit left but the trimming was ball ache , so it was made into oil ,

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rdrunnercommentedweek 17 years ago

About the PH UP/Down... I dilute my stuff about 1:10 so its usable on a small reservoir (20 l only) The diluted version moves 0.1 PH (~7) per ml now, which is handy... And I use a syringe for dosage (everything)

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Tazardcommented7 years ago

@rdrunner, I was only saying that if you're starting water had a higher TDS rating which is generally calcium and magnesium that your portions of pH down would increase. A person with a starting water of say 350 would need considerably more pH down than a person starting with the TDS of 180. This is why most nutrient manufacturers will recommend that RO water be stabilized to at least 180 ppm prior to use. Provides a more stable pH.

rdrunnercommented7 years ago

@Tazard1, I am aware that PH is neither a linear scale nor easy to estimate when mixing liquids... Thats why I put the (~7) there... This only applies to my water at around 7isch values. Its a rough estimate but works fairly well in the narrow band i use for growth. Works fairly decent for eyeballing values... If you need to move it a lot you need to be aware that it is a log. And after I am done i measure again also.... But it helps to reduce the numbers i need to mix the water up

Tazardcommented7 years ago

@rdrunner, The amount that your pH down will move your pH has to do with your calcium and magnesium content of the water more calcium and magnesium will act as a buffer and therefore will require more pH down to move the pH level.

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ForestGreencommentedweek 87 years ago

Wow man the branching on that plant is crazy. Nice idea to do a How To diary. Never grown DWC myself but maybe one day. I see this plant didn't start flower until week 6. That's pretty late for an auto. Do you have any good tips for prolonging veg with autos, or is it just strain dependent?

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BigDaddyKcommented7 years ago

@ForestGreen,yeah it's in with the tutankhamon

ForestGreencommented7 years ago

@BigDaddyK, when you say 12/12 do you mean it was just in with some photos? I know what you mean, most of mine end up being 11-12 weeks. Been ages since I've had a fast finisher. Still most of them show per-flowers around 3 weeks. I guess it depends on when you take flowering from. Anyway man very nice looking plant.

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BigDaddyKcommented7 years ago

@ForestGreen,to be honest , I think it's just the way it grows , 12/12 might have helped , but when plants get bigger it seems to take the full 12 weeks to get to maturity . I'd love to finish one in under 10 weeks. Even my cherry bomb auto , which is under 150 watt led , 24/24 will not be in flower til week 6 . Big takes longer , I think that's all it is .

Fergiecommentedweek 147 years ago

Banging harvest mate 😀 what you reckon 350 dry or so ?

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Fergiecommented7 years ago

@BigDaddyK,still real nice result mate . 😀

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BigDaddyKcommented7 years ago

@Fergie,maybe half that , I trimmed a couple of jars , it's not the easiest lol

biggreens420commentedweek 47 years ago

Get a test done and find out which is best would be interesting to see..

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biggreens420commented7 years ago

@BigDaddyK,nice obviously hps use more power but quality wise will be good to compare

BigDaddyKcommented7 years ago

@biggreens420,I have begun - Led is on the Cherry Bomb

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Hawkbocommentedweek 147 years ago

U making us look bad bro good shit

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BigDaddyKcommented7 years ago

@Hawkbo,oi , yours are pretty exceptional.

Sillyasswhitedudecommentedweek 137 years ago

I would like to know your final conclusion on bud quality...and its relation to the light source it was grown under...dude I really appreciate your straight forward approach of knowledge sharing and your form of teaching...I hope you get a little down time from work for the holidays and catch a break...at any rate I'm looking forward to the verdict on bud density and quality and such...I have noticed my auto grows have taken a little longer than some others I have seen...which I don't mind if the quality is there...it appears to me that you have ran an array of light sources over the years and I would be more than happy to know your final conclusion on all fronts...Happy Holidays wish you the best!!!

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BigDaddyKcommented7 years ago

@Sillyasswhitedude,well leds definitely take longer , but maybe it's more natural,I see huge buds with HPS , but I'm not sure that's better , I have had one smoke of leds , when this one and the cherry bomb are done I'll give you an answer , personally if you are a hobby grower I think they are ideal, less heat , less power , results good enough , but be prepared to wait , I might have to restructure some feed schedules to allow for this , I will say the buds are more uniform which I would say is a result of more focussed light , if you were a professional I would go HPS , with MH for first weeks then a finishing bulb at the end , or be looking at a gravita .

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DWC How to AUTOFLOWERS