Welp, I've made it to 15 weeks finally. She is starting to heavily frost up everywhere, but still a lot of new pistils, after giving her a close inspection for an hour all looks good and while some buds appear on the whole she could go another week, I'll tackle it on a day to day. One way or the other I'll chop before week 16 is done.
Heads are very heavy and branches are very bendy, I've put three lights back on at 100W each in a triangle for the final few days. Overall the ppm is remaining at 800 although the reservoir colour is almost clear, so I'm not sure is the ppm is nutrient or waste. At any rate I've not changed the tank for 5 weeks, three weeks ago I added a bit of extra micro and bloom to bring the ppm back up to 1200, but it's remained at 800 for the past two weeks so it doesn't appear to be using any nutrient and the leaves are finally going yellow and starting to crumble. So I wonder how much of bud supplements that people use are just going down the drain. This is just conjecture though it's been interesting to see.
@smoking_hills9, I can believe that, I had to do an early half chop (see week 12) but the ones that are left are still growing. I can see that these have big potential.
Well it's like 25C at night and 32C in the day currently it's 84%. The res is at ambient temp. Humidity is a problem no doubt about that however I'm not in a tent, so that helps. I did not need to but I pulled both plants out of their spot and checked them out thoroughly as a precaution. Not being locked into a scrog helped.
It's important to keep things simple otherwise you get pulled into all the hype, like all the unnecessary additives and even if an additive is good, you can't tell. The Think Big does not have a lot of trichomes on it and I could easily put that down to the new lights, but the Trippy Gorilla has developed very tight buds and heavy trichomes. This shows how easy it is to get fooled.
The DWC's that I've always seen with root rot are those single self contained buckets where the roots come straight out of a small net pot into the solution. I think this is an inherently bad design if only because of the small reservoir which mean it's easy to send the pH and ppm of the solution fluctuating wildly.
Roots should always be crystalline white, they may take on a tint from the solution but there should always be healthy new growth. What size system are you thinking of setting up.
Yes I'm still in shock at that 9zip. This should be a lot bigger judging by the last harvest, considering this is filling the area better and the heads are about three times the size and it looks like it's going to put on a lot of weight. It's frightening. However if I get a bud rot or a powdery mildew then all bets are off. However the Trippy Gorilla might be done in two weeks. The growing area is also 4 x 2 now plus I've got a better spread on the lighting.
I'm convinced bigger root system equals bigger healthier plant and more yield.
@Mrs_Larimar, I'm blushing. I'm glad if anyone can see that it's best to keep things simple. I've got 5 beans going which I have not put up yet they are only a few days old. I'm going to try 3 plants in one pot to see if I can get more variety in a small grow.
This time I'm going to make little cuts in the wire scrog so I can move stalks around without having to push them under the scrog. It is stiff enough to do this but still easy to cut.
@@@Freddd, Such a nice Diary, I love your Scrog tchnics and gonna do it like you in my next grow..... i liked to read your explanations and thoughts... looking at your beautiful pictures... thank you for sharing that Diary
@BarrieGrower, It is my belief that the key here is the large 27L pot with expanded clay. Then of course there's the shallow water culture part at the bottom. It's very simple and allows a large separate reservoir. This avoids all the problems of a normal DWC. You don't need air stones or additives. No cal mag. What I learned from this is that there was no difference in the smoking quality of the buds at 5 weeks apart, also that the first harvest definitely increased the second harvest. I didn't mean for this to happen so it was a fortuitous discovery. Although I imagine that you would want to know the plant will take it. I'd definitely do an early crop when I grow Think Big auto. again.
Freddd, do you ever get roots growing out the exit tube of your system and ending up in your Rez?
If so, I 'm assuming these are clear tubes exposed to light, do you think that could cause any problems as far as algae or even pythium?
@SHAMMYDOG, never use clear tubing, it will just get filled with algae. All tubing I use is black. Roots always try and escape if they can! Otherwise I don't have any problems with algae. I've just begun a new grow and I'll be putting up some new shots in my next update with the root shots you asked for.
Thanks, freddd for all your info. I think you are a top grower on this site, maybe D.P. will pick you to grow their next newest strain. I think that would be really cool.
@SHAMMYDOG, well that's very kind of you to say so but I'm happy to just show how easy it is to do without all the complication. Just one three part nutrient and that's about it, no additives at all. You shouldn't need any with a hydro anyway. Are you ready to give one a go? If you do go with an auto because they are so much less hassle.
@SHAMMYDOG, yeah, I'll try and show it complete with as much of pebbles away as I can, I'm curious myself how well it utilised the clay. Look like this Think Big is almost ready.
@SHAMMYDOG, that's a good question. I would not. I bought 5 seeds and the only two to sprout were deformed. Two were undeveloped and one half germed. I don't want to be unfair though because the smoke is nice, it matured early was well behaved (apart from weird mutations). But in the end it isn't what I'm looking for.
It's very similar in taste to the OG Kush, refined, perfumed even, but I prefer a more smelly weed. I'll be growing a DP Glueberry, same as went outdoors last grow but this time indoors. And I have a DP orange bud which I'm excited to grow as I'm hoping it will have that old school taste. I'm going to have to downgrade my OG Kush for not being tasty enough for me.
The feeding schedule on a shallow water culture like I'm using is totally not critical but I give it about 15 minutes every and a half, approximately. Sometimes I forget and leave it running on override, it really doesn't matter. Even just a few times a day would be enough, I use a large reservoir to avoid any sudden changes.
Approaching harvest time I see... looking super beautiful and dense. Once again, great job- I am super impressed! How many true watts and what type of light r u using? Thx
@Momgrowsthechronic, thanks again, this one is very pretty. I've shot a movie today because it's hard to do her justice. Remember that she has already had all the main colas removed at 11 weeks and a couple of days!
The dehumidifier is working well, even thought it gets the temp up to nearly 30C. I can feel there's no problem. I only found one tiny bit of bud rot on the dried colas so it's all good on that score. These have been slowly fattening up they are not getting a lot bigger but they are chunking. They are still growing lots of stacked calyxes everywhere. The already harvested bud are tasty and strong, so I'm really looking forward to these.
They are looking close to ready this morning but there's still a fair bit of clear trichomes, Some buds look ready, I'll expect that the chop will be sometime within a week. Mainly using 2 x ab96 Elite boards with hlg185 54A drivers. Currently running at 2.5A each so about 260 real watts in total the plant is currently occupying 9 square feet. I have had these lights driving at 3.8A at one point. but I got another Rapid LED puck to spread it out a bit better. You can add about another 12% for the wattage draw at the wall.
@SHAMMYDOG, thanks shammy, I think I've pretty well covered the two different but similar ways in my two grows. As far as nutes go I only use GH Flora series with nothing else. No extra cal or mag. Basically this grow is just the plant growing in a 12" pot filled with clay and being top fed from a recirculating reservoir.
Freddd, I am assuming your using tap water.... so my question is, does your ppm reading include your tap water reading. So, (for example) your 300 ppm reading for your seedlings, is that just your nute solution? Thanks
@SHAMMYDOG, Yes it gets too confusing otherwise. I mean you can only measure the nute solution after it's mixed! My base water ppm is 130 so that's not enough for me to worry about. In a hydro set up it's so easy for the plant to get at the nutrients that I don't really think the ppm is of great importance as long as it's not so high it's burning the tips, or under say 400 for a peaking plant. I've only just started experimenting with 1400, what I do is I watch it over the next few days, if it goes down quickly like to 1000 after 5 days, then I'll keep an eye on it. I'm tending to be more relaxed with my nutrient mixing.
However it's the balance between npk that is more important, which is why it's best to use no additives just a 3 part solution like GH Flore Series. Micro:Grow:Bloom seedling 1:1:1 ppm 200-400ppm | grow 1:2:1 ppm 600-800ppm | early bloom same as grow | bloom 2:1:4 800-1400ppm | late bloom 1:0:2 800ppm
Note: the ratios above are the ratio of Micro:Grow:Bloom not N:P:K
Freddd, What do you think about this setup, except I would use a five gallon bucket holding one plant and it would drain into a reservoir. So I would have my roots just dangling in the bucket. Thanks www.youtube.com/watch
@SHAMMYDOG, well I'm not fond of roots going straight into the solution. People do it and it works but it's asking for trouble especially in a 5 gallon bucket, because when you allow for the space in the bucket then there's not a lot of solution. So if you evaporate a gallon or two then the nutrient can damage the roots. It's important to have enough of a reservoir to handle the evaporation.
As a first hydro, I would recommend this.... Take a 30L tub with a lid then you make some holes in the lid for the nutrient to drain back into. On top of the lid you place a 12" pot filled with clay pellets. A pump in the reservoir pumps the nutrient into the top of the pot. This will cause the roots to spread out and fill the clay pot, so it's a perfect hydroponic medium.
Eventually the roots will come out of the bottom of the pot, you can trim. them off or you can let them go through the holes into the reservoir. Because the clay stones will pull oxygen in as the nutrient flows through, you won't need any extra aeration.
https://i.postimg.cc/gjKRx9M8/hydro.jpg
@SHAMMYDOG, I'm happy to enjoy the fruits of the work that's already been done in the breeding. It's a challenge just seeing how well it's possible to get a plant to express its full potential. This is why I do not use any additives.
@SHAMMYDOG,
Hi Shammy, one top, that's it. I think not using the direct deep water culture allows me to have a bigger finer healthier rootball, and I believe this to be necessary to be able to get the effect that I get. I am working on the idea that if the plant can detect that it has a large root system that it tends to slow down the plant development and instead increase plant size. Interesting thread about topping autos here. https://www.autoflower.net/forums/threads/auto-topping-thread-pushing-the-auto-limits.57281/
However the Trippy Gorilla was just LST'd because it's weird.
Very cool stuff going on in here. they call this dutch bucket method? Do you have to maintain the root compartment by swapping liquids/washing it or how does that work? I can get my dwc roots looking like that, but it's a lot of liquid swapping action required
@haftanara, if you look at my previous grow, I've used a 4" pot of clay pebbles with all the roots in a large cavity with spray jets. I'd prefer misting but it was too hard to do. This sits on top of the reservoir and drains into it. A small pool of water forms on the bottom and drains out again. The roots are always wet and in air.
This grow is different the entire 20L pot is filled to the top with clay pellets and drains out the bottom into a small air space then a shallow pool of nutrient. It was too inconvenient with the reseviour under the plant.
This particular grow is using a single reseviour to the side, of 60L which I change every two weeks. A bigger reseviour is more stable. Especially in the heat we are having two plants go through a lot of water.
Hey Freddd... Is your system a high pressure spray mist or low pressure system. I have seen a low pressure system on youtube that just uses flexible tubing and he just burned holes in tubing so it just kind of sprays out. If you use high pressure, do your nozzles get clogged? thanks Tim. Looking good
Howdy @SHAMMYDOG, this one is different from my previous grow in that the previous one only had a tiny 4" pot to support the plant with the roots in the air, and jets of water spraying around. This is not what I wanted which was what you described, that is, I wanted misting not heavy jets. If you look at my previous grow you'll see I tried different jets.
However for this grow, I am using the full 12" pot filled with clay pellets, because I have an emotional attachment for growing in a pot filled with clay pellets. So the clay does the aeration and the roots just come out the bottom and sit in a shallow pool. The main thing though in both these methods is what they don't do, and that is they don't have the roots coming out of a small pot straight into a DWC. It's not to my liking.
Hi Shammy, I have updated to scrog 2.0 will put up all the details soon. What I used in version one was just bits and pieces of stuff. The circular wire was a pot stand and I don't even know what the plastic circle thing is for, and the plastic sticks were from a halo set. I version 2.0 I have a much more ingenious system stay tuned....