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Not much to say here : Seedlings on Day 7 Temps a bit low.
I overwatered a bit. Th medium was not airy enough.
Mataro Blue on the left. HGK on the right stretches and shows violet stems.
Day 16:. As I saw "Praying" on Holy Grail Kush #1 under 350 PPFD, I reduced light intensity on this one to 290 PPFD.
Mataro Blue as no signs of stress gets 375 PPFD
The small Holy Grail Kush gets 375 PPFD.
Day 18: Light was lifted up:All Plants gets between 320-380 PPFD.
Day 18: Holy Grail Kush #1 shows shimmering leaves on the first 3-handed leaves. Maybe the growmix is a little bit harsh for this one.
Day 19. I raised the PPFD to 500 in the centre and placed Mataro Blue under it, as it looks strong and capable to handle that. Holy Grail Kush found places with about 400 PPFD as they look a bir rumpled.
I reduced the light at 8:00 AM to 420 PPFD on Mataro Blue max and 350 PPFD on the HGKs.
Day 20 They got a Foliar Fertilization with Mg, because of poor Mg levels in the water.
I transplanted from 3,5l into 6,5l Pots and gave them a good watering with Root stimulantia then
I Iincreased the light cycle to 20/4 raised the light to 45 cm and put around 400 PPFD on the plants and increased the VPD by lowering the humidity.
After they had rooted the 6.5l they will bei transplanted into 19l gronest bags. I will train the plants for a mainfold and scrog those ladies during the next weeks
They look better after 10 hours in the new pots with lower humidity. I increased light to ~450 PPFD @ 20 /4
HGK#1 grows the fastest. Mataro Blue already smells spicy.
interveinal cholorosis in lower leaves is usually calmag deficiency related but many will say it's too early to have a calmag issue at such an early stage. I'd try giving some with next watering and check if symptoms go away. good luck.
Day 22 from seed now
As you can see on the group-photo HGK#1(in the back) is the only one whose leaves are erected.
I am still waiting for recovery of HGK#2 and Mataro Blue, which are hanging all the time.
I adjusted the lights to see if they get too much light. I will see if they look better when the medium is dry again and look how they react to the lght and adjust acoording to there reactions.
Day 23: I mainfolded Holy Grail Kush#1 when i waited for amazon to deliver my Mykorizha and new 6500k bulbs to support growth during veg.
I kept Node 3 and 2.
I hung a 6500k bulb in the center to support healthy vegetation. The light reminds me of my days growing with 6500k CFLs in a small box.
I bought a Kingbrite P55 last year and after all I am not a big fan of fullspectrum after trying it in vegetation. The internodial spaces are way too big, when not grown under at least 5000k, so I ordered 3 6500k bulbs to get the job done.
Day 24:I dimmed the Mainlight because of extreme PPFDs in combination with the new bulb.
Mataro Blue reacted with standing leaves and I am happy with her, too. She will be mainlined as well in the following days.
Holy Grail Kush#2 still not happy.
I increased humidity, decreased VPD and I think HGK#2 looks better now.
The low rH% could be responsible for the plants problems. We will see it in the following days.
Day 25: I mainlined Mataro Blue and kept Node 3 and 4.
Day 26: I mainlined HGK#2 as well and kept Node 3 and 4.
HGK#1 grows much faster than the other ones.
as far as i know, its just not needed. as @Crusty_Juggler said, it's a gimmick from back in the days. Buy a good full spectrum LED with even light distribution (i love MIGRO) and you can do everything with it. glhf
I like my LED, its full spectrum "FS" and its output is petty even on the reds and blue. similar to most FS LED outputs are now.
Other lights in the brand I have "Medic Grow" also have Flowering/Veg settings. but they just make it more red for the stretch, but I kinda like the lights being more cool. higher blue range. I also like stupid simple and not flicking on settings for the spectrum to change. I enjoy one and done.
Base how long you have the lights on and on what intensity/dim from the DLI output its giving. max is around 35-40 with out additional CO2 supplementation. With CO2 you can go above 40 but everything else in your grows need to be rock solid or its just wasted effort. I think CO2 is a massive gimmick and waste for all hobbyist growers.
Now if you use HID lighting. CMH and HPS are the two bulbs you use. CMH for veg/flower and HPS for flower.
The veg change is a left-over gimmick from the blurple days when most diodes in a light were red and blue.
Anything that isn't fully dimmable on each individual color channels with possibility for individual timers is just flash, is you can't fully control then turning up and down the intensity is plenty control.
Any modern white light LED is great for veg and with formats like strips and boards it's easy to work with.
Whether 3000K, 4000K, or 5000K, doesn't matter as long as I can crank it well up :)
It was time to transplant. Look at those roots. I transplanted them into 19l fabri pots. It took me almost 2 hours to finish.
UnfortunatelyI had to cut the pot. I watered with 0,6 EC adding Hesi Rootcomplex and some extra Mg and installed the Carbonfilter unit. Let´ s go !
Day 30-32:I was worried about too much soil in the medium, and removed about 5l Soil per pot and transplanted them again. Afte doing that I watered them a bit .
When training HGK#2 I unfortunately folded two mains. So now she only has two mains left.
Day 33: I topped HGK#2 (4 Mains now) and Mataro Blue (8Mains now) and removed unwanted growth.
Day36: I used some Neemoil for prophylactic pestcontrol. I will fed Field-horsetail(Ackerschachtelhalm) the next days for Si as well.
I lost half the plant of HolyGrailKush#2 last week, as I broke two stems. So she now has 4 Mains.
HolyGrailKush#1 and Mataro Blue now has 8 Mains each.
They will be watered as soon as they are dry enough, as I watered them last time with 1gallon solution per plant, which was a bit too much for their size.
As I am not used to grow a small plant within big pots,i have to adjust my watering amount,
Day 38: I inspected them, checked for pests and made pictures of them.
Slow growth, pretty stunned and not drinkinggood. I watered 6days ago an amount of 5l with an EC of 0,8 and PH of 6,8, when transpl. into 15l substrate, with no drain. Pots are not drying good
Rh% about 60% now and 24°C. Plagron Grow mix no nutrients at all .
Transplanting an already stressed plant isn't a good idea even tho I hardly notice a slow in growth, I guess trick of the trade after so long. No drainage is the biggest nono. Water pulls air into the soil when watered, with no drainage this can't happen and slowing killing your roots off because they can't breath so to speak... saturated, wet-dry cycle is life or death of a plant..
Good luck.
I have had a look at your diary too. Probably transplant and training has slowed her down a tad. Would have been better transplanting then waiting for her to establish herself in the new pot before any heavy training. She should be OK over the next week.
It takes times for plants to establish themselves in the new pots and till that happens the growth will be slowed a bit as its focusing on root development vs leaf. Its also why its staying wet for longer as the roots are not in that part of the pot yet to suck up all that moisture. Also good points made below about defoliation and topping. two stressors added onto transplanting and its gonna take some time to recover. If their are less leaves it does not have the same energy output as a plant with more leaves.
I don't think you needed to strip the plants at all. they are small. Next time avoid this for faster growth.
The markings on the leaves could be from Ca issues or just a bit of burn from over feeding. I would not do anything though and just let it recover. If it progresses then treat it. as it might find what its looking for in the new medium you transplanted it into.
Mastermind23
