Growth Pains

the real power of LEDs is the energy consumption versus thee photon density delivered to the plant, so basically you are throwing that out the window but yes it is a electricity bill question it is a best practice to intentfully think about your gear and how it will be impacted by either not being able to touch pre-flower plants or by stretching, and just know you will be able to reach what you need to. sometimes it just works out where you have something suboptimal for one grow cycle

keyboard running out of juice .. "photosynthesis" mistyped at least 1 time.

If you're hitting your target ppfd it doesn't really matter how you got there. It uses less electricity to hang a light lower and turn down the intensity but you can hang higher and just run more power if it's more convenient. In mass grows they'll do it that way because it's a lot more practical to just adjust intensity than mess with lamp height when you got 50+ lights.

UV C(you know, the cancer kind lol) is much more effective than B as a disinfectant but both are pretty well useless beyond surface exposure. It has no penitration. It's not gonna reach where it's needed most. Waste of time.

If you have gnats you have been watering too often and the soil is staying too wet. Stop watering! Wait until the top two inches are dry. Water slowly, several minutes per plant until 10 to 20 percent of the solution runs out of the bottom. If you have gnats yellow sticky traps will help catch the adults flying around and then you will need some Diatomaceous earth to sprinkle around the top of the soil to prevent any more larvae from hatching.

Regalia won't prevent PM from what I've seen. The most effective foliar I've seen for PM is sulfur. It works best as a pretreatment preventative right before the flip. If you're already getting active outbreaks then sprays are mostly a bandaid solution though. Once they start up they keep coming back. I wouldn't stress the gnats too much. It's gonna take a serious infestation before it's ever gonna affect your plants really. They're just annoying. Or go straight bucket hydro. No fungus = no fungus gnats.

I've used predatory mites for thrips and had good results. They also say if you spray on BTi to the leaves it can also kill thrips. But I don't know how well it works.

Gegen Thripsen helfen raubmilben und auch die nematoden helfen gegen die Eier von den Thripsen. Alles natur und nicht giftig.

cut out the rot now. and increase airflow and lower the RH asap. Your other question about flushing has good info on why its bunk.

You probably have a little more bud rot than you think. Botrytis works it's way from the inside-out. Once you start working up you buds you'll probably find a little more. Just discard affected materials. I'd worry less about the flushing and just worry about you buds being far enough along if you're considering chopping. Harvest flushing is mostly just saving yourself a little bit of fertilizer. You're allowing the plant to consume built up ferts in the media and saved nutrients in the leaves. Really after the stretch and bulking parts the plants nutritional needs drop off drastically.

If it's only on the bsck nugs, it might be because they're touching the wall. Check all the flowers thoroughly Whether you should chop now depends on the amount of mold you have, if it's only the back nugs, then remove them and keep going, but if you find more infected flowers then pull the plug asap. A few pointers to avoid bud rot in areas with high humidity and high density of Botrytis spores: - Have a lot of circulation fans going - Keep the foliage in check to ensure good airflow around the flowers - bend buds away from the main stem where you can to improve airflow - Add a dehumidifier if you can't get the RH belew 70% - Choose strains with mold resistance (Platinum crosses are very resistant)

I don't flush and I am happy with my product. 👌 Flushing from my perspective.. if you don't push the phosphorus into the plant with a hammer and high concentration ... and until the last days. There is no issue 👌 At least for my stuff 😇

now we know who is growing flower we shouldn't spark up 😓 If you have been feeding your plant exactly with zero excess the entirety of the grow, then a flush would be pointless. Considering the plant is a dynamic biologic system with a vast array of triggers and impetus for various uptakes...I doubt you're feeding that properly. "This was a hypothesis that was never tested by the "bros" out there. It sounds good to the uneducated, right? Sounds science-y?" is basically word vomit. The only reason these folks don't flush is because of a few podcasters and youtubers a couple years back about tomatoes. Sorry, I don't smoke my tomatoes. My flower gets treated with much more care than my tomatoes. Considering that you can taste when a flush is bad, especially you living soil folks, you would then logically have to recognize that a good flush is...good. If you even type on a flushing question, you should be mandated to show pictures of your crop's ashes...because mine are white and float in the wind. A flush is only as good as the salts you are taking out. If your water going in has a lower EC than the water coming out, then you have removed free nutrients from the system. Saying that the plant has no perspiration system is only pedantically correct. Regardless, explain why EC values oscillate during daytime versus nighttime. And, that is game. GG

flushing is bro science. There's reputable source information out there that empirically shows it's nonsense. This was a hypothesis that was never tested by the "bros" out there. It sounds good to the uneducated, right? Sounds science-y? IF you run water through it, it shoudl dilute it, right? But that isn't what is happening. First, the plant has no excretion system. So what plant organs are carrying out this dilution? LOL. They don't fucking exist. changing the concentration in the substrate will eventually have an effect simply because you start providing less of a nutrient or multiple nutrients relative to rate of use... depending on the context of toxicity, if there is one, it'll take a long time to draw it back down to safer levels... as it uses up what is stored, since it has no system for excretion. Also, flower is a sex organ. Do you have a lot of fat in your balls? No, because sex organs aren't for storing that sort of thing, they are for reproducing. they have a specific function just as leaves and stems do. It's called cell differentiation. Different organs do differeent things even if there is insignificant overlap - e.g. just about anything green has chlorplasts in them.. But only the top layers of leaves are by far and away the most effective material for absorbing light and using that energ to build sugars, which power growth and maintenance of the plant. Had someoen soundn science-y contradict me in a recent question and all it did was make it obvious that person never took a chem or bio class beyond HS-level and went into a load of bro-science reasoning and evidence totally devoid of source knowledge to back it up.

Your setup looks similar to what you're gonna see in a section of a mass grow. I suspect you've either worked in a facility or at least copied the layout of someone who has. More doesn't always equal better though as you've discovered with the PM/Budrot issues you've had in your last grow. In my opinion your biggest problem is airflow and microenvironments. You could safely cut your plant numbers down by 1/3 or even by half and just train out the plants more to fill canopy space. I also don't think you're moving enough air through your environment. More fans inside your growspace and more/better exhaust or ditch the exhaust and run a closed system with CO2, in which case yeah get a good dehumidifier and AC. You run into more heat/humidity issues in a closed system though so exhaust might be simpler.

AC does the same job as a dehumidifier and it also cools. Could just rely on the AC unit alone unless its getting to cold. then get a small dehumidifier. I don't worry about RH unless its 65-70%+ to much engery wasted to keep a plant happy.

Any equatorial sativa will tick both boxes but there are trade offs like long flowering time, fluffy buds, creepy and racy high. Panama and Malawi from Ace Seeds are both very nice. However, if you're looking for something powerful with dense caked out buds, get Platinum crosses from In House Genetics, I've grown many of them at perpetual 70-80% RH, peak flowering during the season where Botrytis spores peak, and zero mold in the Platinum crosses while watching other plants crumble away with mold right next to them. The crosses where Platinum is the mother should on have the strongest resistance e.g. Platinum Kush Breath (Remix), Platinum Jelly, Sugar Cane, but I haven't med any Platinum cross that wasn't resistant to mold, and I've grown +20 of them :) The Platinum crosses will tolerate heat within in reason but not nearly as much as the equatorial sativas, they can thrive at 35-40°C.

I like lit farms and sol-fire stuff. Lit farms is mysterious but there seeds make good fire. Sol-fire has some beautiful offerings

larfy satvias tend to be more heat/rh/temp stable. allows for better airflow and lowers chances of mold/fungas. just not the best bag apeal.