Sour Crack grow diary (journal) week6 by Momgrowsthechronic

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Momgrowsthechroniccommentedweek 66 years ago

@Philindicus, first off, thank you so much for taking time out of your busy day to comment on my issues. After reading ur replies, I am going to try changing things up a bit. After an even closer look at my ladies, I can see two major distinctions between the rust spots. The first spots that showed up early last week were rusty/brown patches that quickly grew larger and began killing the entire leaf within days. These patches along with the red petioles, stem striping and leaves curled down are indicative of a Phosphorus deficiency. I upped the P&K and this issue seems to have improved somewhat. Then the yellowing began and it has moved up both plants- it’s starts out as kind of a random, cloudy yellowing that becomes more pronounced as the days go by. Eventually there are rusty/brown patches on these as well and the leaf dies. Now, I’m seeing tiny rust spots identical to what I had during my last grow which was definitely a Calcium deficiency 100%. My best guess is that I should have sped everything up (nutrient wise) because as you mentioned- this is a fast flowering strain 8-9 weeks. I think this was a Phosphorus deficiency and now it’s a touch of Calcium deficiency too :( I have taken ur advice regarding removing 4 mls of the Sensi Bloom part A to compensate for upping the CalMag to 4 mls for now. I had never thought about doing it that way but it makes perfect sense when trying to avoid too much Nitrogen. Thx for that, I will be using that growing forward. I know for sure that I’m not overwatering, the roots are not too wet (I check sometimes with my soil meter just too be sure) and my fan is not blowing directly on my ladies. So, I hope that by adding in the extra CalMag, keeping the Nitrogen under control and keeping the P&K where it needs to be- I can nurse these ladies through to harvest. So far, the buds are still building and I think that’s a good sign. Once again, thanks!

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Denzulcommentedweek 66 years ago

Those are some pretty looking ladies right there, nice work. Also love your lighting set up. Looks great. Keep doing what your doing and beat of luck with the rest of the grow.

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SeedLovercommentedweek 86 years ago

Hi there ! :) I have been following your diary since the beginning. In no way am I a pro lol but wanted to give my insight. I don't know what is in your medium and what kind of medium it is (suppose Coco), I'm growing in soil. But I think you put them in the big pots too early because watering becomes a problem (when you don't let the water drip through the bottom of the pot, your medium often becomes a mess and you cannot water a small plant this much in a big pot), the medium either is too wet for the plant or too dry at some spots. When you water a dried out medium with nutes, 99% you'll have nute burn. I think that this is what caused your nute burn more than the fact that you put too much nutes which is possible. I would recommend (from my own mistakes) not to let your medium ever dry out, which can sound contradictory with what often is said but it isn't. Soaking your medium and not letting it dry out (roots die in drought) are different things I think. So medium always moist but never soaked. Clawing leaves (the tips of the leaves curl down EVEN when the leaf looks ok and in worst scenarios the whole leaf claws (happened to me a lot till I bought an EC meter and water every day)/very dark green leaves is a very clear sign of nitrogen excess. Don't give your plants too much N, it really screws the flowering. Then I also noticed you started Bloom nutes on week 3, I think that it's way, way too early, I myself start Bloom nutes only 1-3 weeks into flowering. Honestly buying an EC meter if you don't have one is a must in my opinion, especially in soilless medium. :) I really hope I helped in some way!! Will be following along!

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Momgrowsthechroniccommented6 years ago

@@SeedLover, I have watched all of Harley Smith’s free videos that I could find. Total agreement on building a healthy, living soil/medium for quality results and solid yields. He is very smart and easy to watch and I’ve learned alot from his tutorials in a short amount of time. Thanks for your thoughts on this grow and I hope I can call on you in future for advice if needed. 🙏🙏😘

SeedLovercommented6 years ago

@Momgrowsthechronic, sorry it took me 4 days to answer! I understand your thought process, you get better through testing and experimenting anyway. Bloom nutes normally contain less N than Veg nutes so you're better off using the Veg nutes in veg. If there is any reason for me to use Bloom nutes in Veg it could be because of the higher content of Phosphorus in Bloom nutes, and Phosphorus helps with growing roots. But there is enough of it in majority of Veg nutes. I might be wrong but I don't think it's very useful to do the mid-grow-flush IF you haven't been over fertilizing. You should flush your plants at any stage of their growth IF you over fertilised, or let the medium dry out too much. Feeding the soil correctly is the key for a balanced nutrition indeed. Yes I know Mr. Canuck Grows, he's rather good :D! But I want to recommend you Harley Smith, he's a professor and know a whole lot about organic living soils. Good luck to you!

Momgrowsthechroniccommented6 years ago

@@SeedLover, thank you so much for taking the time to comment on my grow. I wanted to clarify a few things for you so that you understand my thought process through this grow. First off, I’m in ProMix HP which is a peat based medium similar to coco as far as aeration/drainage. I put these into larger pots right away because many growers warn about autoflowers not responding well to transplanting. I’ve been following a feed schedule that I came across online which calls for bloom nutes from start to finish because of the higher Nitrogen content. This feed schedule also (according to the grower who wrote the post) does not require a mid-grow flush. Because I’m still a newbie, I tweaked the schedule a bit here and there but obviously it did not work well for these plants at all. I do agree with you that the medium most likely became overloaded with unused/xtra nutes and these plants have suffered through the last weeks of this grow because of it. I am trying something completely new with my next grow- using coco thats been amended with organic dry nutes (Gaia Greens is the brand I’m going to try). Instead of feeding the plants, I’m going to feed the medium. Seems more natural, just have to water with PH’d water and if needed- add more nutes by top dressing your medium (coco). There is a Canadian YouTube grower named “Mr. Canuck grows" and it’s his method that I’m going to try. Thanks for your thoughts, really appreciate that. You turned on the little light bulb in my brain and got me thinking that what I thought was a deficiency was actually a nute burn/overdose. Going to purchase a combo EC, TDS, PPM meter still, that way I can keep an eye on when my medium needs to be reamended during future grows. Thank you again. 😉

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Philindicuscommentedweek 66 years ago

First off they look great. All of the above has happened to me also. I tend to be heavy handed with the watering sometimes I've seen this curl then slight droop after a heavy watering. Also if the fan is blowing on them too much they can curl. The red stems with purple streaks running up the main stem could be caused by a phosphorus deficiency. Seems like AN nutrients seem to have a higher nitrogen than phosphorus content.Hard to tell in the photos but some of your leaves look very dark green because of the nitrogen. You can possibly lower your part A by the amount of Cal/Mag you add to lower your N. You also have a 12 degree day/night temperature difference which could be causing the purple/red because of the indica genetics in the strain. Since you don't check ppms I personally would let them go drier than usual then try giving them a bit of a flush then add nutes to the last part of the flush then let them dry out before next watering and see how they react. Without knowing the runnoff ppm's you cant be sure if that was the issue. You also mentioned you added more lights and wattage. Maybe back off your lights a bit. I have read a few articles about plants under high wattage LEDS needing less nutrients because photosynthesis is now more efficient. Also since this is a 8 to 9 week strain normally and we like to break all the rules you can start switching to adding Overdrive a bit early to add more phosphorus. Good luck.

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Momgrowsthechroniccommented6 years ago

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Philindicuscommented6 years ago

@Momgrowsthechronic, You should have shown a picture of the leaf so we can see what it is. So far in my grows it seems to really start showing deficiencies in the lowest fan leaves during week 6 so I started adding cal/mag in week 4. I think your right give her what she wants more cal/mag as long as your sure her roots aren't too wet. I have read some comments in other diaries about if the area of the leaves around the veins looks puffy or raised is a sign the roots are too wet.If that is the case the roots can't take up the calcium efficiently. I see signs of this in your photos. I would let her dry out and see if the leaves lose that hook on them. Also I was just on Cannas website their nutrient deficiency guide describes red verticle streaking in the main stems and red leaf stems as a nitrogen deficiency once again if the roots are wet this could be the cause. It's so hard to call I would hate to give bad advice. Maybe you should use your grow question and get a few more opinions.

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Momgrowsthechroniccommented6 years ago

@Philindicus, do u think it’s possible that this could be a CalMag deficiency? I’ve only been giving 2.5 mls per gallon as a preventative dose. My last grow was a CalMag hog and slurped up 4-5 mls per gallon in order to stay healthy and green. I’m thinking about upping this in the hopes that the yellowing stops. The only reason I didn’t do this sooner is because the rust spots started at the bottom of the plant when last time I had a full on Calcium deficiency it definitely affected the top first and worked its way down. With adding in the Big Bud + base nutes they should be receiving more than enough Phosphorus yet the yellowing continues. Thus my reason for thinking this could be a CalMag issue. Let me know what u think, much appreciated!

Philindicuscommentedweek 56 years ago

Does Pro Mix HP hold a decent ph range during your grows? Or do you add any lime to the mix?

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Momgrowsthechroniccommented6 years ago

@Philindicus, my feeding schedule is a tweaked version of Tang’s easy feed auto schedule. I love the ease, convenience and affordability and I’ve just made some adjustments along the way and added in the Big Bud/Overdrive to supplement the extra P & K. Depending on what strain I’m growing, I tweak the schedule to meet it’s needs. Thank you Tang for a great feeding schedule that seems to work for almost any strain grown in a medium similar to ProMix! Love it 😍

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Philindicuscommented6 years ago

@Momgrowsthechronic,Great I would like to keep trying a few different growing mediums until I find one thats works best for me. I like your feeding schedule because your able to start nutes earlier. It almost reminds me of an old grower TaNgs feeding schedule. I definately need to try feeding a bit earlier to get more veg growth and .bud sights.

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Momgrowsthechroniccommented6 years ago

@Philindicus, I do not add any lime to the mix as the Promix is pretty much the perfect product right out of the bag. My PH remains steady throughout the grow and I only check the numbers with a soil meter if I suspect something is off. So far I have been very satisfied with the Promix HP and I can generally get 3-5 grows (using 5-7 gallon pots) out of a 60lb bale/cube. No bugs, no root rot if properly watered and easy to flush at the end of the grow- I love it! 😍

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Philindicuscommentedweek 86 years ago

Nice comeback even C looks happier this week. They definately filled in more. Leaves are starting to straighten out. Did you break down and buy a TDS meter yet?

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Philindicuscommented6 years ago

@Momgrowsthechronic, I thought I was going to keep it simple also but now I'm diving in head first. I am starting to lean more towards coco with Roots organic original but don't want to go full hydro. I may switch to coco when I'm finished with my nutes. I already have too many bottles of stuff. I wish I had more room I have some sour crack in my refrigerator I'd like to do. You still have a great grow. Look forward to your harvest.

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Momgrowsthechroniccommented6 years ago

@Philindicus, I’m looking into purchasing a 3in1 TDS, EC, PPM meter because I definitely feel that nutrients/nutrient concentration in my medium played a part in my plants’ slow demise. I am also thinking about going an entirely new route with coco and organic dry amendments instead of feeding synthetic, bottled nutes. But these ladies are what they are and the bud still looks decent and smells great. In fact, I’m most likely harvesting the oldest two plants this weekend to make room for starting my outdoor summer seedlings!

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GreenHouseLabcommentedweek 76 years ago

Hey, if I'm not mistaken you should be given the same amount of Sensei A than B to balance the N-P-K. Especially than you are using Bug bud which is heavy in PK. Your temps looks much better, if possible 75-77 deg F is ideal and your humidity level could be higher at this phase of Flower (50-60) then lower to 40 your last 2-3 weeks your buds will crystalize. All in all these buds look denser than your last. Looks good!

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Momgrowsthechroniccommented6 years ago

@GreenHouseLab, I’m removing 4 mls of part A because I’m adding 4 mls of CalMag into the mix. I was concerned that my plants were getting too much Nitrogen so a fellow grower suggested lowering the part A to compensate for the Nitrogen in the CalMag. These buds are definitely denser than my last grow so that’s an improvement overall. Thx for checkin in!

SHAMMYDOGcommentedweek 46 years ago

Hey Mom, Are you growing in coco? If so, I would water every day until good run off. You really can't over water in coco. Also what is your ppm. I water twice a day when they start to flower. Looking real nice.

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Momgrowsthechroniccommented6 years ago

@SHAMMYDOG, I am growing in ProMix HP (high porosity) which seems to be similar to coco in many ways. I wait until my pots are almost completely dry before watering again which is every second day. I have never checked my ppm (although I probably should) as I’m trying to keep my grow as simple as possible and my plants seem to be healthy and green. Thx for checking out my grow and the advice is always appreciated! 👍

Budofpraycommentedweek 86 years ago

yo buddy !! there is alway Something to try 👍👍 in your case use fungis/bacterias as a bio-control agent with a correct application….. in 5/7 days…. u will have your answer 😓 i am going to do an update on my diary and it will be totally dedicated to symbiotic microbian's activity 👊 even if you may be thinking it s too late, try on one pot fungis cocktail quickly...and see what's happens 🙏

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Denzulcommentedweek 76 years ago

Oh man have those buds packed on some size since I last checked in small your ladies looking happy and healthy. Beautiful. Keep it up.

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Philindicuscommentedweek 76 years ago

Wow that's crazy,Your plants definately aren't starving. Got some nice budding going on. Still the nicest sour crack plants I've seen on this site. Flushing them was a smart move. Once they have dried out a bit. I would stop feeding plant C completely just give it ph correct water hopefully she will pull through she may have needed a larger flush. D looks like shes is a bit stressed also not as bad as C give her ph correct water until her leaves straighten out. I would skip feeding A &B then alternate water-nutes-water-nutes. I know you want to keep things simple but you need to break down and get a TDS meter (This will make you an official mad scientist) it doesn't need to be an expensive one so you know not only whats going in but whats coming out. Your current nute feeding amounts are probably around 700 ppm. Your week 5 nute feed amounts were even higher just a guess maybe 900+ ppm. What may be happening is using 5 gallon pots for smaller plants their root system is small and isn't using all of the nitrogen. It stayed there sitting in the pot and it was just building up all this time. If you grow any more small varieties try a 3 gallon sack. She may have been a little bit more sensitive than the rest of the plants who knows. It's hard to tell in the photos with the way your lights are set up if the plants are directly centered under the middle of the larger leds but it may be slightly too intense for them. The hottest most intense area is dead center under the lights. I would try raising the lights up a few inches or push plant C off center or move her toward the back and put plant D in the front.

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magicUmbrellacommentedweek 76 years ago

Good job!

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DustyDukecommentedweek 56 years ago

Looking strong and healthy keep it up 🤙

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Mom’s 3rd Indoor Grow- Sour Crack