Auto Topping SCROG Living Soil

I have used old soil before but i removed the root and added some new soil. It worked fine, havent noticed a big difference. Anyways good luck, im curious to see the result! 🌱

Got good structure going there!

Hi there, thank you for running this diary. We look forward to your updates. Happy growing 🌱🌱 & good luck 😃

My conclusion on organic, water soluble, nutrients This example is Kelp Extract but same logic (not dosage) applies to Soy meal (N), Alfalfa (P), Nettle/Blackstrap (K), field horsetail (Si) (Kelp isn't about NPK and all of these also include the needed Minerals and other stuff) When using organic Grow/Bloom like BioBizz, you benefit from Alfalfa, Low NP Nettle or Blackstrap, field horsetail and Kelp. You can combine all of them if you want to do everything by yourself but do your research. Kelp is like always useful. Using these makes pricy booster products completely obsolete. Note: - Some heavy feeders can take additional, directly absorbable, mineral PK. But it's much less than in Coco/Hydro - Water based stays 1 week in soil (higher- or over- dosage stays longer) - Top dressing meal / powder can stay longer, average 2 weeks. Rely on manufacturer/research information Species: - Ecklonia maxima (better) - Ascophyllum nodosum (double the mentioned dosage) Disclaimer: - Dosage obviously does not apply to kelp meal or powder, but you get the general idea - Please keep in mind that some products have higher NPK, but the pure kelp isn't about NPK - Your nutrients may already include the same base ingredients PH: 4.6 Dosage: - Less than 7 Liter Soil: 1 ml/Liter - Less than 15 Liter Soil: 2 ml/Liter - Less than 25 Liter Soil: 3 ml/Liter - No more than 5 ml/Liter Use once per week and stop 2 weeks before harvest (when buds mostly reached their final potential) Heavy drinkers/feeders benefit from half dosage but twice per week. Do not combine with other boosters. Apply other boosters on different days and at least 2 days after the kelp. There is no benefit in using less or more of the extract. no need to experiment. Stick to manufacturer dosages if unknown!

My conclusion on mycorrhizae (i reveal my excel data sheet soon, but i need to take those notes right now so why not share) get a product with a mindful combination of CANNABIS tested and beneficial mycorrhizae. there is no point in combining all of them. it's more important to have the ones that are really useful and those in good concentration. some products offer useless combination and even combination that fight each other. do some research and check ingredients of different trusted manufactures. It's beneficial to mix them with the soil but it really gets a HUGE boost when it can really connect to roots. IMPORTANT! you should ALWAYS let the plant grow like 2 weeks, to get some root mass, and transplant the plant from this really small pot. Because when you transplant you can apply the mycorrhizae to the bottom and sides of the hole AND to the outer and bottom of the plant you going to transplant. This way you can also use much less and be much more effective. The mycorrhizae will attach and grow with the plant EDIT: to clarify, some mycorrhizae attach to the plant, some to organic material.. all helpful in different ways, but it does not make sense to combine 20 different species. higher concentration of useful ones

My conclusion on "living" soil A living soil is always required for organic soil grow. Some might think that you only need to water and don't add nutrients, but this is only the case if you include (or the product includes) long term nutrients. I am vegan, if you like it or don't doesn't matter. Even if you dont like to eat vegan or dont like the movement! This is the cheapest and best choice for yield, taste and sustainability! Products: - Zamnesia Monster Bud Mix (All in one) 70 Days Nutrients - Zamnesia Monster Bud Mix Living Soil (All in one with microbes/compost/mycorrhizae) 70 Days Nutrients - Azet VeggieDünger (ONLY NPK, long term feeding, no other stuff) 98 Days Nutrients Can be used in Living soil and can be refreshed every 98 days to provide NPK - other complete living soil solutions Self made: without long term feeding. Comparable to "All Mix" when it comes to included NPK but you surely need additional feeding in late veg or flower. (or include long term NPK but thats more complicated) Ingredients for 10 Liters: - 10 Liter Light Mix equivalent (a peat free, starter soil with perlite) - 0,7 Liter compost - 20 gram bokashi bran (dried) / dried bokashi starter (dried/fermented is important!) - 10 gram leonardite powder/meal/crumble - 10 gram rock dust powder/meal/crumble - 10 gram mycorrhizae (if not included in soil) Refreshing Soil for 10 Liters: After every run: Remove the stem and the hard part from the soil. keep the roots. Mix it with new Light Mix/Starter Soil until you get the same volume that you started with. You might add some organic material like oat flakes or stuff like that (No NPK) to feed the soil if your mix is low on organic material. After time: - 10 gram Bokashi every 4 Month - 2 gram leonardite every 6 Month - 3 gram rock dust every 18 Month Note: companion plant are really helpful and you want to add mycorrhizae on every transplant into your living soil. This is really cheap, you require less feeding and the soil is really doing great work to give your plant everything it needs. No booster or special products besides NPK required. Everything included in these components. Dont let them fool you. You dont need anything else. This is like 5€ per grow + elecricity + water! Disclaimer: for bokashi/leonardite/rock dust, powder is the worst you can use since it washes out and gets used faster. You want "little" stones, like sand idk how to say

@growdiaries, I can not select an answer to the open question in this diary. Also the image of the custom soil is broken on this one. I don't use other social media so I simply don't know where to report errors. Thanks 🙏

So, as the plant is maturing I noticed a problem which also occurred in my first grow. I constantly try to maximize my performance in all kind of ways. Therefore, I take risks and worse results in order to dial everything in. When it comes to training, you can see I shouldn't have bend the middle branches down for so long because in stretch the outer (the main-)branches still took over way to much. When it comes to light intensity I noticed that 950 ppfd or higher makes trichomes become ripe (amber) way too early. This is what happening to the middle bud and to the right buds, which grew tall. I understand that with less you probably end up get more or better results than me. At least currently. But hopefully this all leads me to perfectly predictable and repeatable results in the future and my own style of growing. Cheers 😎

Schaut soweit wirklich gut aus ! Viel Erfolg im weiteren Verlauf 👊🖖🍀

Looking Really Good ❗️