Can I Grow Blueberries and Pineapples

CanniGrow First time plant owner, so had prepared as well as i can hope, got the Propagator setup, with a 50W 6500K Flood LED, Dimmed to 24W, top mounted in the 60x40x60 tent, with a 14W side mounted fan, running 24h a day. All watering will be done with Reverse Osmoses water and a 10μM H2O2 Solution. The Lights have been set for 22/2. The Seedling Homes: (6 pcs.) The seeds were planted in ½L plastic pots. For each pot 5g of Mycorrhizae was mixed into the soil, and then added to the pot, and a small indentation was made, added a light sprinkle of Mycorrhizae, and laid the seed on top, pointy end up. Then i covered with about ½-1 cm of soil. Then watered. Water for initial watering: Used just about 800-850 mL of Root Juice solution. I had made 1L of Root Juice solution, so will be saving the rest for next watering. Watering made the soil compress about 1-2 cm, leaving room to supplement with soil later during Seedling, shotning the plants, for further root development, high in the soil. Planted on August 12th (Day 1) at 15:45. First seedling (PC6) broke ground on the 15th. The last one broke ground late on the 16th, reaching 100% germination. Aug 17th Notes (Day 5): First watering was today. That means the plants have had 5 dry days. Feed them the remaining 150-200 mL of Root Juice solotion, from top, and then left them to bottomfeed from 1L of 10μM H2O2 Solution for 10 min. After 10 min, about 100mL was left behind, so they ate about 1-1.1L total. (Bottomfeeding is for root training, teach them to go deep for water and nutrients) Notes: Was supposed to do a 1μM solution, but did a 10x miscalculation. But as i am intending on bottomfeeding for now, i am chancing the numbers. This is subject to change. Next: Now it should be 4-5 days before watering again. Next time i water i will add some more soil, to shorten the seedling, and cover the stem to do roots. Next watering will be the last watering with 10μM H2O2 Solution only, after that, i am adding Cal-Mag to the water. Ordered some Diatomaceous Earth (DE) to add to the soil (Insect disinfectant, and grow materials for the weedlings), should get here tomorrow, so should be there for next watering also. Note to self: Remember to top water the DE into the top soil with pure water, do not top water with the 10μM H2O2 Solution from the top, OR you could dillute the 10μM into a 1μM before topwatering. DE should have been added to the initial seedling blend, but i did not find out about having to add Silica to the soil, until Aug 17th. Should get added once every 4 weeks. As both the first two addings of DE fall the same week as transplanting, i will add it to the soil i add when transplanting, Mycorrhizae will get it to the plant from the added soil, when needed. Context: H2O2 is Hydrogen Peroxide: It starts to break down into Water and Oxygen, when it gets into contact with organic materials, so the end products it releases are completely harmeless. This is used for fighting pests, fungi and molds, but normally when using Mycorrhizae (A fungi), you cannot use H2O2 because it kills fungi. A very new study (Google: Integrated effect of arbuscular mycorrhizal fungi and hydrogen peroxide on the root system of trifoliate orange seedlings) has shown increased symbiosis activity with a very low concentration. When i say low concentration, i do mean low, as in a 1:862223 solution. That is 1mL H2O2 (3%) pr. 862L water. I will be using this at every watering during the whole grow. As i started at a 10x of the intended, i will continue using the 10μM for the rest of the grow, but when veg starts i am doing clones to get experience, and will test the optimum μM to feed, the study says 1μM improves and 100μM kills the Mycorrhizae, so hope 10μM does not kill them. Hoping bottomfeeding prevents the H2O2 reaching and killing the full Myccorsphere, before it has broken down, no problem with the broken down H2O2 and Mycorrhizae. Besides, looking at how H2O2 affect the root system by releasing Oxygen into the soil, feeding it as low as possible, should give the most optimum deployment of H2O2 possible. Maybe i can go even stronger, requires experimentation. That being said, should my plants get something H2O2 can cure, i will be sacrificing the Mycorrhizae, for plant health. Rather have low yeild, than useless high yeild. H2O2 will still be good for the plant, just not as good as Mycorrhizae. You can reintroduce more Mycorrhizae once the plant has recovered, if it gets compromised, but there might be nothing else that can cure what it got. IF i should get even close to optimal conditions for Bud root, i will immidiately be spraying the Colas with H2O2, to not allow for it to get started at all. At some point i will be testing if spaying top leaves with a 1:2 solution, required to fight fungi and molds with H2O2, to test if it ever reaches the soil and kills the Mycorrhizae. The reason is, if it does not take out the Mycorrhizae, i will be spraying it with a 1:2 solution on canopy at every watering to prevent anything from even having conditions for colonizing, as i se no negative effects of H2O2, only positives in a tent environment. Experiment idea: At some point i should test weather of not the benefits of H2O2 are greater than Mycorrhizae, so to se if a plant living on a higher H2O2 mix will do better than a Mycorrhizae with low 1-10μM. Mycorrhizae is expensive, and H2O2 is virtually fee, so worth to se if it is worth it. This might be a full grow length experiment, cos they are basically completely different growing environments. Seedling Light Schedule: This is a bit special, to start i was going to go for 24/0, but i saw a youtube vid, where the guy had tested 6, 12, 18 and 24h seedling lights on vegetabels, not cannabis, though he said he will be doing 16/8 from now on, i got a different takeaway from the experiment. Seing the seedlings of the experiment, my winner was 24/0 because as he said the plants were almost as fine as the 18/6 but had signs of light leafburn and stress. So i compromised and is doing 22/2 to give it max Light, but still a daily break, albeit short, but 2h of darkness. Aug 18th Notes: (Day 6: Last day of Week 1 Germination) Just went over to check my Mint, Basil and Cherry Tomatoes, Only 1 of the 7 tomato seeds i planted have broken ground, and my Basil. The Mint is not showing. Funny thing is, the Tomato and Mint seeds were rather expensive, but the Basil i found on sale of almost out of date seeds, and they are the ones that seem to work. The Mint and Basil is there because i read they keep some crawlers away, and the tomato is there cos i love tomatoes. You can spot the tomato that has broken ground in the Aug 17th pic above, it's the leaves just visible in the top right hand corner of the picture. Will try to do a daily pic, at least through Seedling stage. End of week 1 Seedling Germination Experiment idea: Though i am not going to be starting from seeds again, i do have some "unknown" seeds, i am wanting to experiment with H2O2 as a germination starter, and compare to a Mycorrhizae/Root Juice cocktail of sorts, to see "Can I Speedrun Cannabis germination.". Though the seeds are unknown, and therefore not at all viable for any kind of reliable test, it would be fun to see if they would show any kind of usefull data, for seedstarting. First the seeds will be placed in a small container with the testing solution, thinking a shot glass. Thinking 5 sets of 2 seeds and 1 of 1, only got 11, so will have to do, hopefully i can get a few more. That gives 6 possible combinations. 3 will be tested with 3% H2O2 Solutions: 0, 1:100 and 1:10. 3 will be tested with Mycorrhizae and Root Juice in different solutions: 0, 1:100 and 1:10. Zero Solution in both experiments are basically baseline samples, and totals 3, 2 will remain as baseline, and will take the single remaining seed and plant it in the pot directly, to se if the seedstarter is faster at all. This might prove if the stress of moving the root after sprouting, even exist, and if so, can adding H2O2 or Mycorrhizae during sprouting, offset this stress. The 4 sets of 2 that are not the baseline, the seeds will stay in the solution til they sporut, i will try to dunk 1 to the bottom, and leave 1 floating. When/If they sprout roots, they will get planted into a pot, with my normal soil mix with Mycorrhizae. The result will be evaluated on time to sprout, and size of plant after 1, 2, and if room in the propagator, 3 and 4 weeks. If one looks tempting, i might grow it fully, just to se what that seed is, rumoured to be a mainly skunk strain. But the bud i got it from, is not from a good grow. Has no smell, no taste and virtually no effect, but even a badly grown plant, should still produce full potential seeds. Well that alone is another piece of interesting information that might bring one or two to full length test.