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Master_weeda Hello to all the padawans and Jedi masters! First of all, thanks to Original Sensible Seeds and Greenhouse for allowing me to do this grow by providing me with the Greenhouse feeding. I remind you that I'm simultaneously growing 9 pots of 10 and 11 liters in a box designed for 4, and I only use the bare minimum of equipment necessary for a proper grow at the lowest possible price. EQUIPMENT CONFIGURATION Box 80×80×160 Lamp LED Lampwin 300 watts ×2 Clip fan 15 watts Xiaomi Deerma humidifier 5L Hygrometer thermometer Extractor PROFAN 107 m3/h - 100 Programmable electronic socket ×2 1 round brown pot 11 liters Greenhouse feeding enhancer Greenhouse feeding biobloom Greenhouse feeding biogrow Biobizz lightmix substrate Wire and cutting pliers Microscope Small precision scale GROW STEP BY STEP First, I germinated my seed with the Easy Start from Royal Queen Seeds, and I’m pleasantly surprised because honestly, the success rate is very high (17 seeds out of 19), easy to use, and very effective. Once the seedling is out and about 2 or 3 centimeters tall, I gently take it and place it directly into its final pot. I recommend pots ranging from 10 liters to 15 liters for autoflowers grown indoors. The pot will have been previously prepared (video in diary) with 30 grams of Greenhouse feeding biobloom and 30 grams of Greenhouse feeding biogrow, which is the equivalent of 3 grams per liter of substrate. So I place the seedling in its final pot, cover it a bit with soil, lightly compact it, and water to keep the substrate moist, no more. I set my 300-watt LED lamp about 90 centimeters above the seedling with a light cycle of 24/24 for a week. At the beginning of week 2, the light cycle will switch to 20/4 thanks to a timer because for me, this light cycle offers the best yield for an autoflower. Day 1: light watering Day 2: light watering Day 3: the seedling starts to become more vigorous, setting up ventilation to increase its root mass, and light watering Day 4: watering with one and a half liters of water at pH 6.3, to which I added 0.9 grams of Greenhouse feeding enhancer (so 0.6 grams per liter of water) Day 5: no special technique Day 6: no special technique A pleasantly calm week with no problems or apparent deficiencies. May the force be with you!

Master_weeda Hello to all the padawans and Jedi masters For this week 2, no techniques were practiced, I just monitored that the humidity level stays at 70%. I did a light watering until day 10 because transplanting the autoflowering plants into their final pots increases the risk of overwatering the substrate. 🤐 To mitigate this risk, it's better to water with 10 or 20 centiliters of water at pH 6.3 during the first 10 days of the seedling. On day 11, I water my pot normally with a quarter of its volume in water (for a 10-liter pot, 2.5 liters), still with a pH of 6.3, and I add 0.6 grams of greenhouse feeding enhancer per liter of water. 👍 The enhancer is a mix of humic acids, seaweed extracts, strains of Trichoderma harzianum, and Bacillus subtilis. It increases the plant's vitality, improves nutrient absorption, and enhances soil quality. 👍 I will do a similar watering in 2 weeks. May the force be with you 💪

Master_weeda Hello to all the padawans and Jedi masters! For this week 3 on the sixteenth day, my plant is 15 centimeters tall and its sixth node appears, so I decide to practice LST on my plant. For this, I use galvanized wire that I plant directly into the substrate, being careful not to damage the roots because let's not forget that what grows above also grows below. Day 17, I spray (on top and underneath the leaves) a solution made of a teaspoon of liquid black soap diluted in a liter of water as a preventive measure against potential pests. I repeat this operation once a week until flowering. I adjust my LST according to the growth of my plant... For me, this is how I proceed, but just a reminder of the LST technique: When to start applying the LST technique Many growers start manipulating as soon as the plants have between 3 and 6 nodes or a pair of leaves. During this first stage of growth, the still-flexible trunk can be bent without the risk of breaking, even though as the plant develops, it will become increasingly difficult to bend. We can continue to guide the growth of the branches throughout the entire cultivation, even during flowering, which represents a significant advantage over pruning at this stage, as pruning is not recommended once the formation of buds begins, as it will stress the plant and delay the harvest. How to apply the LST guiding technique If we are careful, the natural flexibility of cannabis fibers allows us to bend their trunk and branches with relative ease, even during the flowering of the plants. By using a thin rope, we can attach the tip of the plant to the base of the pot, for example, or to a stake that we have planted in the substrate. We will carefully bend the trunk and secure it with the rope; from there, we can gradually increase the tension of the rope, a little more each day, until we achieve the desired position. Be attentive to the plant's reaction, try not to apply too much pressure on the rope, and remember that the flexibility of the branches can vary from one plant to another. To achieve better results, just follow a few simple rules. First, we need to choose a thin rope but not too thin so as not to injure the trunks as they grow and become thicker. We can use soft plastic hooks or any other flexible material to avoid damaging the plants. Especially indoors, using colored plastic cords (see @Silky's diaries) is very practical for easily spotting the attachments and facilitating work in the midst of the network formed by the ropes, stakes, nets, or supports we have in the cultivation. Of course, in outdoor cultivation, especially in guerrilla growing, we will do just the opposite and use materials that are colored to not attract attention, so our garden remains discreet. To minimize stress on the plants, it's best to perform these manipulations in the evening or just after the indoor lights go out, allowing them to recover during the night. Normally, the next day we can observe how the tips of the branches we bent rise again towards the light source. May the force be with you 💪 May the force be with you!

Master_weeda Hello to all the padawans and Jedi masters! For this week 4, I'm keeping an eye on humidity and watering as usual. I'm fine-tuning my LST while stressing my plant as little as possible. I'm combining my LST with an Apex pinch, which will allow me to have a more uniform canopy, leading to better light penetration and consequently a better yield. A little reminder about the Apex pinch: Pinching cannabis plants Close to the apex pruning principle, this technique has several advantages, the main one being to preserve the main central bud of the plant, ensuring maximum production and quality. Pinching cannabis plants The apex pinching (top of the plant) simply involves gently pinching the stem of the top tier of the plant between the thumb and index finger until you feel the fiber crush under your fingers with a characteristic little crunch sound. If the available space on the top tier's stem doesn't comfortably allow you to place your fingers, you should pinch the tier below instead. Pinching will significantly slow down the vertical growth of the plant while stimulating the development of secondary branches, thus giving the plant a bushy shape. The plant will take a few days to repair this pinch, forming a knot at that spot, and will then continue its growth normally. The pinching can then be repeated if necessary on the newly formed next tier, as well as on any secondary branches that might exceed the apex. Pinching is therefore an excellent technique for achieving a nice uniform canopy of the sea of green type. By regularly pinching the apex of the larger plants in your space during growth and at the beginning of flowering (stretch), you'll easily get plants of uniform height in full bloom, which will facilitate cultivation and increase final production, especially if you're simultaneously growing multiple marijuana varieties. With a bit of practice, pinching can be done as quickly as it is effectively. In case of overly aggressive pinching that results in a torn apex, it will simply produce the same results as a classic apex pruning, so it won't be dramatic. May the force be with you 💪

Master_weeda Hello to all the padawans and Jedi masters Apex pinching. Finalizing training Day 34 light defoliation Day 33 watering with 2 liters of pH 6 water to which I add 0.5ml of TopMax Biobizz (very light dosage to avoid causing a lock-out) this will promote its entry into flowering. I am performing a light defoliation to allow better light penetration to the lower apices. What is defoliation? AMATEUR GROWERS, BE CAREFUL, BUT DON'T BE AFRAID Defoliation involves removing leaves from indoor cannabis plants to increase the final yield. The amateur grower must be vigilant when starting to apply this pruning technique. Despite the endless debate between those who advocate this technique and those who denigrate it, there is no reason why an amateur shouldn't give it a try to see if it suits them or not. HOW TO DEFOLIATE Whether you are trimming the leaves or branches of cannabis plants, it's best to use a sterile pair of scissors that feels comfortable in your hand. Pulling leaves off by hand lacks finesse and often accidentally results in tearing layers from a stem along with the leaf. The main goal of defoliation is to allow better light penetration and promote the production of larger buds. Shade-casting fan leaves should be removed. Trimming the main stem and/or secondary shoots is not defoliation. The golden rule when refreshing your plants is to start with the largest and broadest nutrient leaves, trimming from the bottom up. It's important to remove leaves strategically and not randomly. Also, keep in mind that you should limit your refresh to approximately 10 to 20% of the total leaves on your plant. It's very easy to get carried away during trimming and end up with bald plants. Excessive leaf trimming will hinder photosynthesis and paralyze your plants. WHEN TO DEFOLIATE It is quite rare to apply defoliation as the sole technique to achieve a high yield. Leaf trimming is generally associated with other pruning and training methods for better yield such as topping, FIMming, LST, manifolding, supercropping, and ScrOG. Growers using the ScrOG method will need to remove all lower growth as well as leaves and stems located under the net. Cannabis plants can be defoliated as soon as they transition from the seedling phase to the vegetative growth phase. However, it is recommended that amateur growers allow the plants 1 to 2 weeks of vegetative growth before tackling their defoliation. Additionally, some strains are more sensitive to pruning than others and will therefore be more stressed by leaf trimming. Closely monitor your plants' behavior after pruning. A recovery period of at least 3 to 7 days before resuming defoliation is strongly recommended to avoid too much stress on the plants. Growers can also defoliate during the flowering phase, which will allow the plant's energy to be focused on producing buds while limiting shade and excess moisture. Nevertheless, it is important not to defoliate too late, as this may unnecessarily harm your plants. THE ADVANTAGES OF DEFOLIATION Obviously, the number one advantage of defoliation is the increased yield potential of this pruning technique for all types of cannabis, from photoperiod to autoflowering varieties. It’s no secret that flowers receiving more light grow larger and wider than those hidden in the shade of leaves. Additionally, removing the inner leaves from bushy plants helps prevent any threats of mold. Very leafy plants with dense inner foliage will produce a significant amount of popcorn buds. In the worst-case scenario, dense bud branches and buds will succumb to rot. If you see water droplets forming on the surface of the leaves, it’s high time to consider defoliation. Clearing the lower and middle areas of leaves is an excellent way to improve air circulation. THE DISADVANTAGES OF DEFOLIATION Indoor cannabis plants benefit from defoliation for two reasons. The first is because they receive light from a stationary source above them, and the second is because the environmental conditions are controlled by the grower and not Mother Nature. Outdoor plants, on the other hand, don’t gain much, as the same conditions apply to them. The sun moves across the sky, illuminating different portions of the plant from sunrise to sunset. Outdoor growers do not need to manipulate the plants to develop a flat structure since the sun is infinitely more powerful than any grow light and, moreover, it is always moving. Trimming leaves from outdoor plants also makes them more vulnerable to humid conditions and breaks their natural barriers against pests. Many indoor growers can, and unfortunately often do, reduce the final yield due to defoliation done at the wrong time and/or excessive. Trimming seedlings is not advisable and often results in stunted plants. Scalping mature plants is even worse, and instead of getting long bud branches, you will likely end up with even fewer flowers. Similarly, trimming sick or unhealthy plants at any stage of growth risks stunting growth rather than encouraging the formation of dense flowers. May the force be with you 💪

Master_weeda Jour39 biobloom

Master_weeda Day 42 defoliation Stretch 10 centimeters Day 47 watering with pH 6.3 water to which I add 1ml per liter of Topmax Biobizz water

Master_weeda Stretch 12 centimeters Day 52 light defoliation and watering with two liters of water pH 6.3

Master_weeda Hello to all the padawans and jedi masters Stretch +13 centimeters Day 56 watering with two liters of water pH 6.3 adding 5 grams of greenhouse feeding biobloom while scratching the soil Day 59 watering with two liters of water pH 6.3 to which I add 4ml per liter of water of topmax biobizz Day 61 watering with two liters of water pH 6.3

Master_weeda Stretch 14 centimeters Day 63 watering with two liters of water pH 6.3 Day 66 defoliation and watering with two liters of water pH 6.3 to which I add one gram per liter of water of feeding enhancer greenhouse

Master_weeda Day 70 removal of lower branches (first node) and watering with 2 liters of water pH 6.3 Day 72 watering with 2 liters of water pH 6.3 Day 75 watering with 2 liters of water pH 6.3

Master_weeda Hello to all the padawans and Jedi masters Stretch 18cm!!!!!! Day 77 watering with 2 liters of water ph6.3 Day 80 defoliation so the buds can get light, I add 3 grams of biobloom greenhouse feeding by scratching the soil and I water with 2 liters of water ph6.3 Day 82 I add 3 grams of biobloom greenhouse feeding by scratching the soil and I water with 2 liters of water ph6.3

Master_weeda Hello to all the padawans and Jedi masters Day 84 watering with 2 liters of water pH 6.3 Day 87 watering with 2.5 liters of water pH 6.3 Day 89 watering with 2.5 liters of water pH 6.3

Master_weeda Hello to all the padawans and Jedi masters Day 92 watering with 2 liters of water pH 6.3

Master_weeda Hello to all the padawans and Jedi masters Day 98 big defoliation and light watering Day 101 watering with 2.5 liters of water pH 6.3

Master_weeda Hello to all the padawans and Jedi masters Day 106 watering with 2 liters of water pH 6.3. Day 108 watering with 2 liters of water pH 6.3.

Master_weeda Hello to all the padawans and Jedi masters Day 112 watering with 4 liters of water pH 6.3 Day 115 watering with 2 liters of water pH 6.3 Day 117 watering with 2 liters of water pH 6.3

Master_weeda Hello to all the padawans and Jedi masters

Master_weeda Hello to all the padawans and Jedi masters Nothing to report, the plant is healthy and has an exceptional smell I think I’ll harvest it this week Because the trichomes are starting to turn amber at over 30% How to know when to harvest? The cannabis harvest window is one of the aspects of growing that is unfortunately too rarely taken into account, or the grower simply doesn’t have the patience to wait a few more days to ensure maximum THC content. Some strains are better if harvested before their peak THC production, while others are better if harvested afterward. There will always be some variations, but you can use the rules below to help you assess the best harvest window for your plants, based on the trichomes: 1) Perfectly formed trichome heads that are still clear will give you a cleaner, more uplifting high with less sedative effect; this is the best harvest window for heavy Indica strains. 2) Perfectly formed trichome heads that are becoming slightly cloudy or milky; this is probably the best time to harvest most of the hybrids available right now. 3) Perfectly formed trichome heads that are completely cloudy or milky, with at least 30% turning amber; this is generally the best harvest window for late-maturing Sativas like Haze. It’s also the right time to harvest when you’re using the plant to make hash. The mistake to try to avoid is harvesting before the trichomes are perfectly formed; most growers who follow the previous rules will harvest when the majority of the resin heads are milky. Harvesting before this window will produce buds that are less potent, containing fewer essential oils and terpenes, and your harvest will have a grassy or hay-like taste, even if it is dried and cured properly. May the force be with you 💪

Master_weeda —

Master_weeda —