3M • Purple Bud ΘЯGΛИIC

deFharo 3M: Organic matter, minerals, and microorganisms. New organic grow this time with two feminized purples from the white label bank. Depending on how the grow goes, I'll decide on the technique to follow; I just hope they end up very purple to get over the loss of other purples from Buddha Seeds that I lost due to a thrip invasion. Thanks for the visit!!

deFharo Hello. Here are these two purples in their second week of life, I'll wait for them to develop their first full leaves before transplanting them into 7-liter pots. For now, I'm just moistening the substrate with pure water. Until next time.

deFharo Keep up the cultivation. Cheers!!

deFharo Transplanting pots. Cheers!!

deFharo Continue the grow. Cheers

deFharo Plants a week after transplanting to 7-liter pots with FS LED panel. I'm going to change this light for CFL 6400k.

deFharo With this grow, I've applied corrections based on the experience from my other diary, although there are still mistakes. • The starter pots have been smaller to make the transplant less traumatic. On 01/18/20, I transplanted to 7-liter pots without touching the root ball, and the plants have responded very well. • I started with a peripheral watering of 5% water per pot (350ml). A week later, I increased the water level in the pot to 500ml per pot. • These plants are lagging behind; the reason has been insufficient light during the first 40 days of life. Now the growth rate is optimal, and I'm going to wait for them to reach a height of about 30cm before switching to flowering. For my next grows, I will apply intense light from the moment the seedlings emerge. • Another mistake I made in my other diary was the excessive use of my potassium humate enriched with animal proteins in the first weeks of the grow, which caused symptoms of potassium excess, as this preparation is not suitable for the vegetative growth stage. I will use it in pre-flowering at 0.5% a couple of times as the last contribution of soluble organic nitrogen.

deFharo I delayed the growth a lot before the transplant, but now they're growing at a good pace and very healthy. There's one that's bigger than the other, and I've done a FIM pruning on it. When the other one reaches the height of the first, I'll also do a FIM pruning on it. I might decide to do a Scrog grow, depending on how the pruning evolves. I have them under very intense white spectrum lights. This week, coinciding with the waning moon, I will do a surface feeding with my own formula containing 23 organic and inorganic ingredients, where I include my auxins to promote the development of the lateral branches resulting from the apical pruning. Cheers!

deFharo I'm happy with the evolution of these plants. Even though their growth was delayed before transplanting, they're now growing vigorously and healthily. I did a FIM pruning this week and I'm waiting for a cabinet to free up so I can move them to flowering. This week, taking advantage of the waning moon, I top-dressed with 5g of my formula of 25 organic and slow-degrading mineral components. I'm still giving energy to the microorganisms with molasses. Let's keep going, cheers!

deFharo Plants with very healthy foliage, the response to the FIM pruning is showing good results, both are waiting for the switch to 12/12 hours of light to harvest a closet, I hope they don't get too big, although I plan to train the branches to optimize light entry and final height. Cheers!

deFharo Both plants are showing healthy growth, one clearly ahead of the other. I'm waiting to harvest my main cabinet to switch them to flowering. I'm happy with the results of the FIM pruning; there are many tops pushing to get closer to the light. I made changes this week to the lights. I replaced the CFL 6400k and 125w with an LED lamp that I built with a 150w chip and a color spectrum between 2500k and 3200k. For now, I'm feeding them a varied diet composed of humic and fulvic acids, plant and animal amino acid hydrolysates, phosphorus, and always carbohydrates (honey or molasses) and 5% ormus. Cheers!

deFharo A week of careful watering with rainwater. The plants, mainly one, showed symptoms of excess mobile nutrients, the leaves on both have been drooping all week, I barely water the surface to lower the humidity at the bottom of the pot, yet they are still holding on with vigor, although I'm considering the option of making substrates with less nitrogen component load. I've tied the upper tips of one of them so it doesn't get too far from its sister. Today I added organic and mineral components on the surface to make them available during the waxing moon. For solid surface fertilizers this week, I dehydrated and then ground the skins of pears, apples, oranges, bananas, and potatoes, which I mix with my base of solid components with more than 25 different ones... long live the Mediterranean diet!! To add solid fertilizers on the surface, I wait for the waning moon and temporarily remove the pine bark cover that I expose to the sun to kill any larvae or bad bugs. The cover provides shade and retains the moisture of my mulch layer with MM and organic matter. Cheers!!

deFharo Finally, these plants are lifting their leaves, which inexplicably started happening two weeks ago. I did a little root wash with rainwater, and I was watering them only with water for over a week. I lowered the humidity in the pots, and three days ago, I defoliated the largest leaves to let in more light and try to invigorate the rest of the plant. None of this solved the problem; the leaves were still drooping but had good color and no signs of nutrient deficiency or excess. Well, I noticed that the humidity was concentrated at the top of the pot, and the bottom part seemed very dry, so I injected my worm humus hydrolyzate with ormus into the lower and central parts and through the slots in the pots, and the plants immediately lifted their leaves. I supported this watering with a spray on top using my lactic acid bacteria. Despite my careful watering, making it slow so that the water distributes, this type of pot expels very quickly through the slots at the top, which has caused the water not to properly reach the bottom of the pot and its corresponding roots. I definitely do not like this model of pots. Cheers!!

deFharo These plants promise good buds. After 15 days of watering only with water, I've started to administer nutrients in the soil and in the watering. Cheers!

deFharo The purple buds are starting to show. Both plants now look healthy after stabilizing the moisture in the pot. Now I have these plants in my best flowering cabinet, and it's time to fatten up their buds; they promise a lot of production and big colas. Cheers!

deFharo The flowers of the larger plant are growing wildly with purple tones, the plant has significantly increased its water consumption, it's around 400ml daily which allows me to feed it every 2 days, the diet is very varied and focused on providing different organic and inorganic sources of phosphorus and potassium, I mainly provide minerals with ormus and solid fertilizers during the waning moon. I believe the buds from these plants are going to be spectacular and beautiful. Currently, the larger one has been in flowering for 1 month, I put the smaller plant into flowering 15 days later to try to equalize the heights of both and make the light distribution more efficient. This week, coinciding with the waning moon, I will do a defoliation. Cheers!!

deFharo This week, water consumption has skyrocketed in the larger plant, and there's noticeable good growth in the buds, with a considerable weight increase in the plant. The smaller plant has 15 days less of flowering; I kept it in the vegetative stage for that time so it could catch up in height to the other one, which showed signs of more vigor from seed. This week, coinciding with the waning moon, I applied a surface formula of selected solid nutrients for flowering and bokashi. I like that water consumption is increasing; this gives me the opportunity to nourish my plants regularly and abundantly, alternating different sources of PK, minerals, and vitamins. All the hydrolysates, humates, and ormus are of my own creation. In future grows, I will start applying various types of organic liquid ferments enriched with minerals that I am currently developing. The enriched fruit ferment contains minerals, enzymes, guanos, BAL, animal meals, herbs, dehydrated peels, and seeds. Cheers!!

deFharo The cultivation is progressing. This week I’ve placed each plant in a separate cabinet, and I’ve moved the smallest one to a cabinet with less light intensity but with specialized lights at 2100k/660nm. The intention is twofold: 1) To allow the small plant some extra stretching to match the height of its sister. 2) To provide greater lateral light flow for the larger one, which has buds that are fattening day by day. In this, my first grow of photoperiods, there are some issues, like the exaggerated stretching of some lateral branches, mainly the lower ones, which are no longer able to support the weight of their small buds. Should I get rid of these branches? They are just the first four. Currently, I have tied the branches so they don’t spread out. These plants had an extended vegetative period due to lack of space in my flowering cabinet. Additionally, during that time, I had them under different mixed lights that caused a lot of vertical growth with long internodes in some cases. To really avoid so much height and the consequent weakness of the branches, I would recommend maintaining a high intensity of blue light during the entire vegetative growth phase, in spectrums of 6400k or higher up to 14000k. This type of light makes the internodes much shorter and causes the branches and trunk to thicken accordingly. The 6500k spectrum doesn’t convince me; it has too much green. These lights could be mixed with others that have warmer spectrums. Also, fertilization should be measured, with nitrogen, starting from the apical pruning, and auxins to direct energy to the lateral branches. It’s all about branching out and boosting growth as quickly as possible to transition them to flowering well compact and bushy, thus achieving plants that don’t exceed 50cm in height and also having more chances of uniform lighting throughout the plant. Cheers!!

deFharo Good growth of the buds on both plants, I'm going to try to get this crop to the next waxing moon, then the biggest one will be 90 days since the switch to flowering, it still has a lot of fattening to do. The smaller plant has 15 days less of flowering, currently I have this plant in a cabinet with a light setup that I'm really curious to check the results of. The decision to separate both plants into different cabinets was made because of their size, this way I can also give more light intensity to both plants. When I harvest the biggest one, I will use its cabinet to finish the cultivation of the little sister. Cheers!!

deFharo I'm still happy with the process of both plants. The bigger one has an exaggerated water consumption; it really needed a larger pot, but I don't have that space. It drinks all the water that the pot can absorb daily, around 1L. The buds keep fattening up, and the plant overall shows no signs of deficiencies. The purple colors in the buds are clearly visible now; if the bigger plant keeps this pace, I might extend the harvest until June 9, 3 days after the full moon, instead of June 1 as I had planned. The smaller plant is doing very well in its new cabinet with colorful lights; the water consumption is around 250ml and rising day by day, this plant promises a lot. In both cases, as I've already observed in other auto grows of mine, this is my first grow of photoperiods, the growing times are extended with organic feeding, and I think that's fine :) The last two waterings of this week I've done only with mountain water; the intention is to absorb nutrients from the substrate and give the plant a break, as these last weeks of growth are going to be very intense in terms of nutrition from watering. I've been measuring the EC and pH of the runoff water in the pot's saucer for a while. The EC levels of my substrates are always very high, around 6.0/9.0; however, the plants usually show no signs of over-fertilization or lockouts, and I always keep the pH correct at around 6.8. Given this, I have some reflections: 1) The buffering power of an organic substrate is much greater than that of a simple substrate using synthetic fertilizers. 2) High EC does not mean that my substrates have all the assimilable components at that moment, and therefore there is no danger of lockouts due to excess nutrients. 3) The most likely cause of this level of EC in the substrate comes from the great variety of rock dust that I add to my substrates, as well as other organic components like guanos and meals, all of slow release, especially the minerals. However, this high EC is not harmful so far and keeps the plant completely nourished and developing at a more natural pace than when using high solubility and immediately available synthetic chemical fertilizers. Cheers!!

deFharo The plants keep producing new flowers. The difference between both plants, which has been evident since the beginning, continues to be clear. I've had to stake the larger plant because the branches were bending from the excess weight. Since I have a lot of limitations with the width of my grow, the staking is vertical. The flowers are already clearly showing the purple color of the strain. This week, coinciding with the start of the waning moon, I've made the last solid top dressing so that it will be available for the next waxing moon. I've also added cannabis leaf mulch to retain more moisture in the pots. In the first two days, I can already notice the increase and maintenance of moisture, mainly on the surface. I've done a little defoliation of old and weak leaves. For the larger plant, I'm alternating 3 waterings with fertilizer for one of pure water; the other consumes the water in 4 days, and I don't see it as necessary. Until next time. Cheers!!

deFharo Happy with this grow. The biggest plant keeps fattening up and hardening its buds. It's about 10 days away from harvest. The smaller plant started flowering 12 days after its sister; I don't know if it will manage to extend its life for another 3 weeks, as it's showing signs of fatigue on many of its leaves. We'll see. Until next time. Cheers!!

deFharo On June 4th, two days before the full moon, I'm going to harvest the biggest plant. For now, the trichomes are still milky. I could also stretch the grow until the 9th at the latest, 3 days after the full moon. In any case, I will keep the diary going until I harvest the smaller plant, which is 12 days younger since it started flowering, although it shows signs of aging more than its older sister. I'll try to fatten it up. I'm sticking with a varied nutrient diet, and I've also alternated waterings with just mineralized natural water (for the bigger plant). The smell is deep, and the buds are thick and compact. I hope the smaller plant reaches the same level of consistency in its buds. Until next time. Cheers!!

deFharo On June 5th, a day before the full moon, I harvested the big plant, and I'm continuing the grow with the other plant, which started flowering 15 days after its sister. Although the plant has shown less vigor than its sister and also signs of premature aging, it's currently picking up steam. Over the next 2 weeks, I will alternate nutrients to try to fatten up the buds. Today, I added 0.5% of my sheep wool NK potassium hydrolysate to the watering to promote some growth and maintenance of the remaining leaves to achieve maximum photosynthesis possible. I could have continued with the big plant's grow, as it barely showed amber trichomes, but the lack of space forced me. The last 3 waterings were done with rainwater and honey; I let the substrate dry as much as possible before cutting. This week, coinciding with the waxing moon, I added nutrients and solid minerals to the surface; these will be available in 10-15 days, coinciding with the waning moon. Weekly watering: 1) Day 172: Honey, 2.5% Fruit Biol, and 1.5% Ormus. pH: 6.5 EC: 1.27. 600ml. 2) Day 173: Water and honey. 200ml. 3) Day 175: 1.2% Ormus, 1.5% PK Humate, Molasses, pH: 6.52 EC: 1.55. 750ml. 4) Day 178: 1.5% Ormus, 2% Fruit Biol, 1% Hydro Humus, 0.5% Hydro Wool NK. pH: 6.6 EC: 1.67. 700ml. Until next time. Cheers!!

deFharo I'm continuing the grow with the second plant in the cabinet. So far, no amber trichomes have appeared. My plan is to harvest it between June 24 and 27, coinciding with the start of the waxing moon. Water consumption is moderate, about 300ml a day on average, and there's a big difference compared to its sister. This week, I'm going to continue with nutrition rich in phosphorus and especially potassium, to fatten up the buds. After 7 days of drying, I've started smoking from the harvest of plant 1, and I'm impressed by the potency, smell, and smoothness of the smoke despite the short drying time. Today, after 10 days of drying at a temperature of 21° and 60% humidity, I've put it in glass jars to start the curing process. WEEKLY WATERING: 1) Ormus 2%, Honey, Bio fruits 2%, Animal protein 0.15%, Humate-K 0.8%. PH: EC: 2) Ormus 1.5%, Humate-PK 1%, Molasses, Bean water 5%. 3) Ormus 1%, Humate-PK 1.5%, Coconut water 5%. Until next time. Cheers!!

deFharo The plant is in the final stretch, still no amber trichomes are visible and I think the buds can fatten up more. Even though this plant's low water consumption is low, I'm going to try to water at least 2 more times with nutrients before the harvest.. I plan to harvest between June 25 and July 2, coinciding with the waxing and full moons and depending on the evolution of the trichomes and tails. WEEKLY WATERING WITH RAINWATER AND ALKALINE MINERAL AT 25% 1) Day 180. Ormus 1%, MMA 4%, Molasses, Hydrolyzed potassium from horn and hoof 1%, Algal acid 1%. PH: 6.45 EC: 1.6. 75ml 2) Day 181. Molasses, Honey, Enzymes, algal acid 0.5% and auxins. PH: 6.55 EC: 0.5. 150ml. 3) Day 183. Ormus 1%, Humate-Mineral 2%, molasses, PH: 6.57 EC: 1.65. 500ml 4) Day 186. Ormus 1.5% and Molasses. PH: 6.5 EC: 0.4. 600ml. Until next time. Cheers!! 😎

deFharo Finally, I have harvested the second plant from this grow. It took longer than its sister because it started flowering 15 days later. This plant started off with more vigor from germination than its sister, but during the first transplant, it suffered from moisture blockage, which has resulted in less growth than its sister and much lower water consumption as well, indicating a deficient root system that couldn't recover and has hindered nutrient absorption due to the slow water uptake. I also tried to extend the grow in an attempt to fatten and harden the buds, but they have remained loose and the growth has been minimal. The smell and appearance of the trichomes do not differ from those of its sister. To be continued... Cheers!!

deFharo This has been my first grow of photoperiod plants, and the growing experience has been very important. I've realized how essential it is to create a strong root system from the first weeks, as well as how delicate this process is, since initial blockages clearly affect the future of the grow. I delayed the transition to flowering due to a lack of space in my flowering cabinet, which caused too much height growth and weakness in the branches. I believe that doing at least two transplants before moving the plants to their final pot greatly helps in the correct and abundant development of the roots. Unlike the autoflowering varieties I had grown until now, these photoperiod plants have a much superior effect. I also like having control over the transition to flowering; I think I will start growing photoperiods from now on. Regarding production, there are no differences with the autos, but I think I could have gotten more from these plants. I will apply what I've learned in future grows. After 5 weeks of curing, I can evaluate this strain better. The smell is definitely earthy and spicy with hints of forest and pine. The smoke is very smooth, and it hits the head almost immediately. It's a delight to break apart the flowers from the perfectly dry buds. Cultivation data: Average EC in waterings: 1.4 Average pH in waterings: 6.44 PRODUCTION DATA: Per plant: 130g Per watt: 0.42g/w Per substrate (2x7l): 18.57g/l Per height (60cm): 2.16g/cm. Cheers!!