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Started my next grow with Jack Herer. I've red she should be set in an early stage (8 Inches) into flowering as this strain is growing very high. My room is limited to max 120cm tall strains, topping planned at 5. interniode. Anybody experience with this strain in re height/yield
so how I like to grow regardless of strain is to train my canopy super low and flat with lots of lst. this helps fill out my tent and maintain a low height for the eventual stretch in flower. I don't top any more but have nothing against doing so, its a very valid way to easily train a flat canopy.
so my suggestion is to keep tying branches down and force the plant to grow horizontally until you fill about 75% of your horizontal grow space you plan to fill up. once you hit 75% flip them to flower and keep training them down as they stretch until you fill your horizontal space and then let them gain some height. doing it that way I wind up with nice short bushy plants that leave me plenty of vertical space in my grow and still give really great yields.
being on week 2 you still have at least another couple weeks to go before you come close to filling your horizontal space. dont forget if they get too tall in flower you can keep tying them down and if you really need to you can top them during stretch. topping in flowering isnt ideal but it works in pinch.
Can anybody tell what is happening with my ladies, see time lapse Video .See the edges on the leaves and how the color changed from normal- to dark -green, she is growing slowly. I gave her 5ml/liter Orgatrex (NPK 15:7:8) + 0.5g/liter Bactrex as of May 1.
hey there, shiny leafs that are "too green" is classic nitrogen excess, probably just one big load with extra N in it. The good news that with bio tabs you're not really feeding that often so the situation should eventually regulate itself. Just a minor stress, it's not a big deal during the vegetation phase. Hope this helps ! 🚀
So one week after topping. Leaves still have some deficiency. I have been told to check PH and adjust if needed or to add CALMAG. Since I grow full organic I think I do not need to care for PH/EC , measured it by the way…. PH 7.6 💀 seems to be high but the organic Bacteria Bactrex will sort this out hopefully. So I decided to keep the actual setup, so no PH and CALMAG no risk no fun 😁😁😁 in believe in Organic
Both strains were growing a lousy 3 cm only in one week 😱 I reduced in the last 6 days 1 hour/day the daylight, so from tomorrow on I am at 12 hours daylight and so I am sending both witches into bloom (21cm only)…..hope the strains wake up now!
I don't love these b..... at all!
6 cm in the first week flowering not bad it's getting bether. I Have defoliated in the basement giving her more Fresh air under the skirt! For the stretch phase added some molasses Orgatrex together with Bactrex.
At the beginning of the 2nd week flowering I started to defoliate and have tied down the 8 main branches of one of the strains, looks very funny like a "Circle of Buds" 😁 but now struggeling with the mass of new branches...
Have tied down the 8 main branches so that all are horizontally on the same level "Circle of Buds". Now there are a mass of new branches, should I let them all grow or should I reduce them?? She has a space of 55 x 45 cm horizontally. How many buds make sense at 55cm x 45cm?
Hi there!
She looks beautiful and it depends on what you want from her. If you let all the branches grow you will fill the space more efficiently and you will have more but smaller buds and if you cut them all the energy goes to those main colas only and you will have little bit less but bigger and denser buds. I'd say don't cut anything at this point and fill the whole area with tops and you will get good yield out of this!
Just remember to lollipop too!
In the flowering phase (being now in week 3 of flowering) the humidity should be somewhere between 45 and 50%. We have very rainy days and the humidity goes up until 57%. What happens if humidity stays some days in the range of 57%, what is the risk?
The important thing is that the grow room is well ventilated in every corner. If there is a stagnation of air, with high humidity there is a danger of mold. I am always in bloom at 50/60% humidity
Humidity should be at around 45 -50% at flowering (week 3 of flowering), but on which temperature. Having 50% air humidity with 20 degrees is not the same as having 50% with 24 degrees. Can anybody help me to understand this?
You should check VPD chart
There is optimal temperature/humidity ratios
But when it is said that you should have 50%RH atleast I understand it that your temps are in optimum range. When there is too much heat you should add more humidity too for the plants to stat happy and colder you lower humidity to prevent mold etc.
My strains do have the tobacco mosaic virus. What does this mean? Should I kill the ladies 5 weeks before harvest? Has anybody experience on yield loss with this virus?
Hi!
Don't kill them! They arew looking good so maybe the virus is not that aggressive on your plant. Just remember that viruses can spread from plant to plant so when handling this girl, wash verything before handling another to prevent it from spreading. Hopefully it wont come again on future grows!
New issue starting week 5 of bloom. The lowest big fan-leaves are getting yellow and that very quickly. She got a organic Biotabs PK Booster compost tea 3 days ago. It looks to me she wants more Nitrogen. Should I add molasses? If so how much? Or is it another issue. PH is ok.
Бро, приветствую! У тебя недостаток магния. Его могли спровоцировать переизбыток аммония азота, хлора и кальция.Но магний должен покидать растение с середины цветения и поэтому тебе не стоит переживать, ты уже приближаешься к урожаю! 👌😇👍
Goldbud
