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It's just a plant, dude

5
1
241
4 years ago
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Outdoor
Room Type
HST
weeks 3
FIMing
weeks 3
Soil
Grow medium
Grow Conditions
Week 3
Vegetation
4
cm
inch
Height
24 hrs
Light Schedule
9+ conditions after
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Grow Technique Usage
HST
Technique
FIMing
Technique
Commented by
multiphenotal multiphenotal
4 years ago
They were getting overly bushy and kinda big for their pots this week, so it was time to transplant them. I never saw a seedling grow this fast before. The other two did not make it, as expected. Note, one plant is very small, this might be a runt – or it might just be because the first set of leaves after the embryo leaves came out warped, causing a snowball effect. I don‘ t know for sure yet. You can see the sides of some leaves are pointing up and curling inwards, this is a sign of minor heat stress and nitrogen burn in the unimproved soil. I did not fertilize them, the potting soil must have been pre-fertilized. The minor heat stress was caused since plants grew so fast they were touching the light after a days worth of growth, so I had to readjust them every day, which i didn‘t - So they were touching the CFL-Lightbulb for hours. Thanks to proper ventilation this was a non-issue. The benefit of keeping them within centimetres of the light far outweighs the ‚damage‘ with this type of lightbulb. Packaged into cut plastic bottles for transport and put into a backpack, they made their way towards their would be growspot. But some stoner-aged people were lounging around in observation distance, so I took a detour and decided to plant in an alternate spot first. There I dug a 30cm x 30cm cylindrical hole which comes in at PI x (diameter/2)² x depth = 3.141 x (30cm/2)² x 30cm = ~21.000 cm³ = 21L which should be just fine for an automatic. The soil here was more akin to sandstone on top of being acidic due to the surrounding trees shedding needle, so definitely not suitable for mixing – it had to be replaced. The perfect soil would be light, dark brown and fluffy. Available there was dried dead bark, pine cones and a dug up fine 2nd soil layer of very loose decomposed root and plant material. It was mixed into decently loose soil from under a small part of the forest that‘ s covered by leafy bushes and trees. Zamnesia provided me with „Monster Bud Mix“ slow release fertilizer to mix into the soil. I used about 50-75% of the recommended dosage since automatics don‘ t like too much fertilizer. I still recommend you work your way up to 25% the recommended dosage if you just buy random non-cannabis-specific fertilizer. Also I dug a little deeper and put chipped apart pine cones and mulch in there so the roots can grow a little bit deeper, giving this plant a bigger potential to grow tall. Root depth directly dictates plant height and is a deciding factor for yield. The mix was dumped in and mixed at 200C° for 2 minutes in the kitchen master 400. I did not use any bark that had insects crawling around under it, since the soil doesn‘ t need souls to be suitable for this strain of cannabis. (Also, don‘ t rip bark off live trees) The (not freshly watered) plant should be gently shaken out of its pot and, without fumbling with the roots, planted. Then water it liberally, make sure to get some on the leaves if the sun is not currently directly shining on them – that could cause burns. It‘ s important to note that transplanting any plant outside into the sun like this can give them severe sunburns, but since they are so small and there's still stuff partly shadowing since it‘ s growing right around it I can get away with this in this case. If your plant is getting more than 2-4 hours of direct full sunlight during it‘ s first days outside and you can‘ t partially shade it you can acclimate by putting them on your windowsill for a few hours more every day in the days leading up to the transplanting. Also you can put them under a bush outside. You also have to put a „mini greenhouse“/ cut off plastic jug over them if it‘ s slug season or still a bit cold. This will also block UV rays and prevent sunburn. Just make sure it‘ s not getting heat-stressed in the mini greenhouse and don‘ t leave it on too long Back to the plant, the top layer was covered with bark mulch to prevent the spot from drying out and to camouflage the freshly dug up soil there. Some loose dead greens sprinkled over that served to camouflage it further. It was watered with around 5L and I moved on to plant the other two plants. It was getting dark already and the only camera available at the time was a phone, so the picture quality is abysmal at this stage. Since the other two specimen are growing in waterlogged conditions the soil was improved with about 70% coco coir and mulch and the rest is local soil. The remaining half, or about 75g of Monster Bud Mix was added into the bigger plants soil, the small plant will have to do without it. Additionally a sort of a „ventilation shaft“ of only bark mulch was added to a side of each hole. This mostly helps bugs in and out of the soil. Again the hole had also been dug a little deeper and the additional depth was filled in with what is basically loose debris – just so the roots can grow a little bit deeper with ease. I came back 3 days later to improve the spot, to check on them and water (they didn‘t need it), just to find out I was too late for what I had planned. They acclimated very well but one plant was so kind to show us the benefits of a training technique called „FIMming“. I call it SNAILing – it was done expertly in this case with an additional layer of mucus sealing the exposed stems off from any potential harm. Also it made the slug happy, which is as we know priceless. Training Automatics is a controversial subject, but if you want small bushy inconspicuous dwarfs on your windowsill or think their genetics are good for it you can try it out. You might even increase yields. Or you just get lots of popcorn buds. Mileage may wary. Most breeders have documented training techniques very well on their websites, so I will not explain them in detail. Basically what FIMming and Topping does to your plant is make it produce more „main stems“ or „colas“ as they are ultimately called. Let‘ s just see how they do. I liberally put a bed of dried pine needles around my plant to deter any slugs from trying other experimental techniques on them. Now to todays promised subject, the most common problems plants run into and what are its symptoms: Overwatering/drainage – First smelly soil then droopy leaves finally mushrooms and dead roots will cause an avalanche of syndromes which will permanently stun your plant. Don‘ t overwater. Never have standing water. Always make sure your soil drains well. Don't be 'extra' nice to your plants at any stage and then start to give them 'a bit more' water. This is THE most common mistake beginners make. Nutrient Toxicity – most often in the form of very dark, olive skinned leaves with pointy elongated ends curled upwards– indicating a nitrogen burn. Put pot into a shower and rinse the soil to wash out excess nutrients. There are many types of Nutrient Toxicity, look up a picture showcasing all of them. Also know that with Nutrient Toxicity come other Nutrient Deficiencys. More on that next week Too little light during seedling phase – Seedlings are getting leggy and thing instead of developing new sets of leaves just a couple cm above the soil. Give them more light and wind. Sunburn – white spots on your leaves which will become dead dry material. Root bound – Plant stops growing upwards at a measurable rate, roots peeking out of drainage holes lice, aphids, bugs, slugs and even deer and boar. – Make sure you never overwater and have good drainage, use a bed of needles and coffee grounds to deter slugs and, yes, pee around your site to make it smell dangerous to prey animals. Exposure to the elements should take care of most lice and such but if it gets excessive you can use a spraybottle with soap water... Next week will touch on more advanced subjects.
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julian100614
julian100614week 1
Muy bueno todo amigo 😃 Se ve con muy buena pinta👌 Mucha suerte en la copa y espero que salga un gran Grow💪