Cheese & magnum auto, Mars hydro ts 600

you want to water in the morning, if you can, so it has plenty of moisture and nutes when it is receving light. I water when it needs it... never when lights are out.. stop any behaviour that you think is important enough to go in there during dark periods -- more for bloom than vege, but still no reason to disturb... simply plan ahead better to avoid that sort of thing. i read the most optimal time to water is moments before the plant wilts... that's impossible to do in most contexts, lol. even so, you still want that to occur in morning rather than night, but if it wilts near end of day you certainly aren't going to stick to that suggestion, i hope. So, worry less about this. sounds like you have an excellent method right now.. wait for it to dry a bit and water. Good root growth will be encouraged by this and you avoid lots of microbial/pest issues too.

I think somethign is wrong... if your soil was a pH of 4, your plant wouldn't look healthy at all.. callibrate your device, or find somethign with better resolution to test... some .1 resolution strips work well enough, for example. don't stop adjusting pH .. in soil you want 6.5-6.8. keep doing that with anything you add or if water-only. With that said, if it is how you describe, it's a soil issue, not what you are putting in now (although what you put in could have caused it... if that makes sense - and not due to pH but due to chemicals invovled -- "organic" is still a chemical that adheres to basic laws of chemistry, thermodynamics, physics etc, just in case you are an "organic" person) amending with some garden lime can combat a consistently acidifying soil... you have to do this when you mix the soil though.. top-dressing may help this early, but only watering for a very long time (not all at once, obviously). There are other things you can use to prevent this, if it is common. the other way is to get different ferts or use them differently... or buy different soil / mix it up differently. it shouldn't be common, but can happen to anyone if rare. .

That isn't quite hot enough to be really concerned. I have a friend whose tent is regularly over 100 F, but she corrects using a VPD chart and appropriate humidity to match it. If you get a cool mist humidifier, it will both drop your tent a few degrees and raise your humidity. Add an inkbird humidity controller and you can automate the whole thing to adjust itself for you. Just make sure when buying a humidifier that you get one that will cut on and off when power is applied/cut (as opposed to a switch that you have to interact with each time) so that you can run it on a timer or controller. I started out with a $36 wyze cam pointed at my hygrometer in the tent and the humidifier on a smart plug so I could look at RH with the cam from work and cut the humidifier on and off accordingly. The inkbird controller or similar product is the way to go and very affordable though.

Definitely looks the a deficiency and based on the location its one of the mobile nutrients. A good way to narrow it dow is to first figure out if its a mobile nutrient or immobile. If the effected vegetation is new growth it's generally immobile because if it's a mobile nutrient the plant will take from older leaves what it's laking to support the new growth. From there you look at what part of the leafs effected and what its effected with. I will inbox you a great chart that I found to help you out. in my opinion this is a nitrogen deficiency growmie.

Приветствую, друг! 👋 У вас легкая проблема питания только начала проявляться... слишком много азота, мало фосфора, не подходящий для цветения ph почвы. Решение проблемы: 1. Установить ph почвы в значении 6.3ph 2. изменить кормление grow (1ml/l) bloom (4ml/). А пока что ей трудно усваивать фосфор для цветения! Удачи, друг! Надеюсь мой ответ прояснил вашу ситуацию и решение к ней! 👌😇👍