S3 Sour Stomper & Super Uzi Auto

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ ~~ Note: All environmental, soil, seed and nutrient information can be found in Week One. ~~~ ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ SUPPLEMENT KEY Base Solution: Tap water - plus - PT = Pro-TeKt (1.5 ml/Gal.)  CP = Coconut Water Powder (0.75 tsp/Gal.), pH ~6.5 Weekly:                           MP = Mammoth P (0.16ml/L)     Bi-Weekly (Even weeks)  MK = Mikrobs (0.50 TBS/L)       Every Other Watering:    FS = Fish Sh!t (1.5 ml/L)    AV = Ale Vera (1/8 tsp/2L) Every 4th Watering:       MO = Molasses (0.5 TBS/L) FERTIGATION THIS WEEK (Per Plant) D50 - Azokashi 1.15 TBS, 4.5 liters water. pH ~6.2 D54 - Seabird Guano & Kelp Blend (2-11-2) Tea. 2 liters/plant           • 4 liters water           • 4 TBS Seabird Guano& Kelp Blend (Spun in a blender to pulverize)           • 5 ml Fish Sh!t           • 1 ml Mammoth P           • 1.5 TBS Molasses D53 - It has been ten days since I watered Super Uzi #1. I'm seeing how long it will live without water. The plant was totally wilted and the edges of some large leaves were starting to die. I decided to see if it would come back. I gave it 1 liter of water. Within an hour it was standing tall. Not the way to treat a plant, but it didn't kill it. Next time I'll let it go further. (I wish I had the space to flip it to flower.) ENVIRONMENT THIS WEEK Temperature - 70F-86F Relative Humidity - 40%-69% Comment - The temperatures may seem to run a bit high. This is acceptable under LED lights. Tests have shown that while under HID lights the temperature of the canopy (leaves) is higher than the ambient temperature, under LED lights the leaf temperature is actually lower than the ambient temperature. This is true in my garden. That means that the measured temperature can be higher and it doesn't harm the plants. The Vapor Pressure Deficit (VPD) is what determines how well the plants grow in each stage of life. The VPD runs about 1.2 to 1.6, this is good for the mid-to-late flowering stage. OVERVIEW OF WEEK • Finally determined what was wrong with the help of DrKidneyStoner on Instagram. I have too much N and not enough PK! I need to do a "reset" of the nutrients in my soil. • Once the reset was complete I fertigated the next time with a rich mix of bokashi to bring the needed nutrients back to the plant. HOW TO RESET AN ORGANIC GROW  • You should not flush organic soil. However, it was apparent that I needed to do a light flush to bring the nutrients back into line with what the plants need. I created nine liters of solution for the two plants. Each received 4.5 liters of the solution. Each plant produced about 1 liter of runoff.  • Azokashi (and Seabird Guano & Kelp Blend) is sold by Home Grown Bokashi. (https://www.homegrownbokashi.com/)  • 2.5 TBS added to nine liters of water. pH'd to ~6.2.  • I blended the Azokashi with about a half-liter of water and ran it through a blender. I think by blending it I am increasing the bio-availability of the Azokashi.  • Blending left one tablespoon of solids in the blender. This was removed from the blender for later use. DON'T use a good blender for this. It does scratch the base of the blender, nothing major but I would not do it again in our good blender.  • Mix the solid remains of the blending process with 7 TBS of earthworm castings. I topped dressed with this mix. Using it as a top dressing ensures that I didn't leave any nutrients behind.  • Each plant was fertigated with 4.5L of this mix. Each pot produced about 1 liter of runoff.  • It may be an illusion, but I think I can see improvements just eight hours later. COMING UP  • A return to the regular flowering feeding regimen.  • I have one pound of "BuildABloom" (2-10-5) coming from BuildASoil. I will use this as my pre-flower tea in the future. LESSONS LEARNED (push down list)  • Day 50 - Consider using rice hulls rather than perlite when I build my new soil.  • Day 50 - Another tip from a podcast, saturate the pots until you have a small amount of runoff two days before planting the seeds. You can plant directly into the container and you don't need to think about watering for 10 days or two weeks.  • Day 50 - It was also suggested on Reddit that I should have added my flowering tea a little earlier in the life cycle.  • Day 50 - You can reset an organic grow that is already is in flower. Of course, I should have noticed and treated it earlier. And, I won't recover those leaves that have been damage. But I am certain that the reset is allowing me to get all I can out of the remaining days of the grow.  • Day 50 - I think it is interesting that both nutrient burn and the lack of other nutrients. • Day 49 - You can always see problems about a week before there is a real problem. Need to take better health notes and reference my earlier pictures more frequently looking for early signs of problems. • Day 49 - Now I'm wondering if it is a shortage of something. Could be phosphorus, but I use Mammoth P according to directions. Calcium? Hard to tell. • Day 46 - How can you "fertilizer burn" an organic grow? Might coconut water be the source? I read today that it is important to check your EC (ppm) when using coconut water. It is nutrient-rich, is that the source of too much of something?       => Possible Cause #1: Coconut water.       => Possible Cause #2: NLS tea. I need to check my pictures to see if there is a relationship.