Green crack & Blackberry Auto

Everything looks great. Don't feed until the cotyledons start yellowing. If you can drop the temp a few degrees during the day, you might get some better growth. Your lamp height seems perfect, I have the TSW 2000 and have to have it 30" up in the beginning, so you're probably right on at 25".

Last thing, if your tent temp is 81° then the temp in those domes is probably 5° higher. That's pretty hot. If your RH is over 50% in the tent and you can lower the temp, I'd remove the domes. Either way, great start!

I think they are all looking nice & healthy so far , great job! Keep up the good work & happy growing friend!:v::skin-tone-3::seedling:

Definitely don't top at this point your about to start producing buds very soon. LST will get you what you want, tie down slowly to prevent snapping branches and your good to go on an auto.

The thing when TOPing autos is that the window of opportunity is very narrow. it must be done removing the 5th or 6th node, why? because once the 5th pair of leaves fully opens, then flowering will begin and once that happens you cannot TOP. Also keep in mind that every time you TOP you will increase the time the plant take to finish by 1 week. I would either LST or TOP once and then LST.

If you are going to scrog, I wouldnt bother topping especially with autos. I recommend just scrogging and removing all foliage that stays beneath the net once it goes into bloom. Minimal stress, maximum yield.

I have them under mars hydro and 2x LED 50 watts. As they grew a bit, I moved the light up a little keeping them at 24” hopefully that fixes the issue.

Looks more like a calcium excess wich blocks slightly the uptake of potassium, iron, magnesium, and manganese.

I would move the light closer to see if she spends that extra calcium and magnesium. Moving it further away may end up extending the effects and toxicity of the calmag additive.

Hope it helped good luck growmie.
And stay lit.

You got some yellowing on the bottom leaves between the veins, probably a very slight N deficiency.

The yellow on top looks like regular new growth to me.

Mine did that right around week 4. Turns out my mix was a little hot. I never saw it progress any further than some wrinkly leaves like you have. Those leaves recovered too.

Thank you guys,

I pulled up the light and after few hours they look a lot better. My ph I will adjust to 6 next time? Would you feed them 1/4 of dosage of NH flora bloom? It seems to show K def? Do they show some def of it is light and fan damage?

Hey Mate,
Had same issues over here. To my experience it's better to keep pH near 6 during veg. I raise to 6.5 when I'm in the last weeks of flower. I would suggest to adjust pH @ 6-6.1.
Sativas, or sativa dominant(like your Green Crack) tend to like this setup more, Indies are more relaxed..
Good luck and happy trails for the rest of the way :crossed_fingers:
Servus
OimRausch

Windstress and the under layers of soil probably didn't have enough time to dry out(overwatering) and i see her begin to show symptoms of either being too cold or being under too much light or having a Phosphorous deficiency.

Good luck growmie this should fix your problems.

Hey, depending on the super soil used, most are packed for 4-8 weeks of food inside of them for your plants. After about 7 weeks, I'd imagine that super soil was pretty depleted. Top dressing with more amendments, or switching to liquid nutrients to supplement them is needed and if what you are doing is clearing it up then you are on the right path.

With a super-soil, you've got a lot more things dissolved in the soil than just nutrients, a lot of non-plant food ingredients are in there as well. EC/PPM for organic grows as far as run off are a bit harder to do since the meters read the non-plant food ingredients as well.