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1st grow unknown strain

31
12
976
3 years ago
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Indoor
Room Type
HST
weeks 11
Topping
weeks 5
Defoliation
weeks 5-7, 10-11
Soil
Grow medium
Grow Conditions
Week 11
Flowering
120
cm
inch
Height
12 hrs
Light Schedule
9+ conditions after
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Nutrients
ml/l
ml/gal
tsp/gal
Ca-Mg-Fe - Floramax
2.5 ml/l
Bushmaster Bloom - Nulife Technologies
Bushmaster Bloom
5 ml/l
Grow Technique Usage
HST
Technique
Defoliation
Technique
Commented by
Closet01 Closet01
3 years ago
Since moving the plants into the tent they have been loving life. Gradually feeding more water/nutes, they are still getting taller so I’m guessing they are gonna be a sativa dominant strain. Done some training on the tallest one to help get the Canopy's even so I can get the light at the right distance. Hopefully the super cropping works and she flicks back upright to light 🤞🏼
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Grow Questions
Closet01
Closet01started grow question 4 years ago
Anyone with a great eye for calling sex of plants, could you run yours over a few of my photos and see what you think? Cheers
Solved
Plant. Other
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MangoDudu
MangoDuduanswered grow question 4 years ago
It’s too early to see sex of the plants. But your autoflowering jack herer is 99.99% girl for the autoflowering genetics
Closet01
Closet01started grow question 4 years ago
Hey guys I have a feeling one of the babies is a little full with feeding and is dropping at the leaves a bit am I best to just leave it be for 2-4 days without water to let her dry out and come back?
Solved
Leaves. Curl down
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FreshCoastOrganics
FreshCoastOrganicsanswered grow question 4 years ago
Yes, I’d wait a while for the medium to dry up! I always let my soil go almost completely dry before watering again!
Closet01
Closet01started grow question 3 years ago
My biggest plant has started looking a little sick, have a feeling it may be some type of nitrogen toxicity? Maybe it’s just got some nute burn? I have flushed it out and will leave it be for a few days and hopefully it perks back up
Solved
Leaves. Color - Yellow
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MangoDudu
MangoDuduanswered grow question 3 years ago
Your soil is not perfect for growing cannabis and is stealing calmag like coco i think. Also with led plants eat a lot more of calmag,just give her some of it and she will be great 😊✌️🏽
Closet01
Closet01started grow question 3 years ago
My Soil ph is sitting around 5 in most of my pots, how can I raise the ph of the soil without harming the plants? Is it as easy as working some crushed lime into the soil or is there something else I should be using?
Solved
Plant. Wilting
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StayWeeded
StayWeededanswered grow question 3 years ago
You can top dress dolomite lime at about 2 tablespoons per gallon of soil. Lime will bring your pH back up and will also add cal/mag. Make sure to use dolomite lime and NOT hydrated lime as that will just cause more problems. You can find it at most garden centers sold as Garden Lime for about $5 a bag.
Closet01
Closet01started grow question 3 years ago
My Soil PH drops fairly quick over the week from 6.5-7 all the way to 4.5/5, is there something I’m missing? I’ve been keeping a close eye on it and adding a few tablespoons of dolomite lime when needed but is this something I’m going to have to continually do or?
Open
Other. Other
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Answer
sacredgeometry
sacredgeometryanswered grow question 3 years ago
When you mix your nutrients with your water are you PH adjusting? If so what are you adjusting to?
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Closet01
Closet01answered grow question 3 years ago
@gmslave, thanks for the answer mate, I’m feeding by the bottle so will go half rates from now on. Have just started a 24hr period of darkness before hitting 12/12 so will go half rate on the bloom nutes
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StayWeeded
StayWeededanswered grow question 3 years ago
As for the dolomite lime, it takes a couple weeks to break down so you won’t see anything right away. You should only have to top dress it once using about 2 tablespoons per gallon of soil.
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Closet01
Closet01started grow question 3 years ago
Am I right by thinking this is just nute burn or am I missing something? Burnt edges of leaves and are curling down sometimes? TIA
Solved
Leaves. Edges burnt
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Burmese
Burmeseanswered grow question 3 years ago
Hey friend, When I look into your diary, I see alot of problems there.First I see curling leaves , may be caused due to over watering or nitrogen toxicity.To fix this, let the soil dry about half to one inch down from top.You have already switched to flowering circle.So stop or reduce feeding nitrogen rich fertilizer.Another thing is burn tips.They could be from nute burn due to excess of nutrient.Soil don’t need much nutrient.You should reduce your dosage strength.I hope you are not using folior spray fertilizer.Cause they could cause burn tips easily.Last thing is I found out is some brown and dry crispy leaves at the bottom.They seem to be Cal-Mag deficiency to me.So add more Cal-Mag.Remember always adjust your water pH around 6.5 whenever you water.In this way you can get rid of those in no time.Happy growing.. ✌️
Closet01
Closet01started grow question 3 years ago
Leaves showing some bad signs even tho feeding cal mag every water. Have been feeding every 2nd day but 2 out of the 4 plants have curled and showing some bad signs.
Solved
Leaves. Edges burnt
Leaves. Tips - Burnt
Leaves. Curl down
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Organoman
Organomananswered grow question 3 years ago
Judging from your pics, you seem to have a few issues going on. With any half reasonable soil mix, there should be enough nutrients for 4-6 weeks at least. So I would say, too much ferts, too much water and too much calmag. Also another thing I noticed is that there are some old/pulled leaves on the top of the soil in your pots. This can cause fungal diseases to form and judging by the black spots on your leaves, they seem to have that too. So I would say, ease up on the fert, give calmag every 10-14 days, wait until the top 2 inches of soil is dry before watering and make sure to remove any fallen or dead leaves from your grow area, as these are just waiting for fungus to grow on them. Hope this helps.
Closet01
Closet01started grow question 3 years ago
How much longer will I be waiting to see buds form? Feels like they’ve been on 12/12 for ages and they keep stretching?
Open
Buds. Not fattening
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Answer
Fruitgrower
Fruitgroweranswered grow question 3 years ago
I agree with organamon to a certain extent. You have defoliated far too much and at the wrong times and moment. Bloom nutes should be introduced as soon as you see preflowers at a low dose but not dismissing grow nutes as alot of nitrogen is needed for the first 2-3 weeks of flowering.I think you might have tried too much for your first grow. One or two plants with some gentle LST work would have been enough to ease you into the game and understand the plant and its need for npk at different stages of its grow. Trying to grow a sativa for the first time is tricky and using bag seed (if that's what you done) is never a good idea. 👍🌱
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Fruitgrower
Fruitgroweranswered grow question 3 years ago
It looks like it's coming. Are you sure they're on 12/12 schedule? Are you sure there's no light source inside o or getting inside during lights off. Did you have the lights too far away at first? Are your lights powerful enough, or on full power?
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Organoman
Organomananswered grow question 3 years ago
Wow, you really are having hard time with these plants! They are 11 weeks old according to your diary, so, being autoflowers they should be well and truly on their way. Boy oh boy! Highly acid substrate, nute burn, fungal problems,- you are getting hit from all sides! Add to this, a massive defoliation in week 7, and no wonder your plants are unhappy and unresponsive. Right, so what to do? These would be my suggestions. Others may disagree, but these are my ideas. 1 - First off, just give them plain water for the next three waterings, no nutrients, and this will give your soil a bit of a "tidy up". After this, start feeding them with half strength "grow" nutrients. You are feeding them "bloom" nutrients, however they are not blooming yet. This could account for the stretched growth. Only once they have formed small "budlets" or "tufts" of flowers, should you switch to bloom nutrients. 2 - Soil Ph. This needs attention. 5.5 is waaaay too acidic. Even if your solution is 6.6, if your soil is 5.5, this is a big problem without a quick fix. Reducing soil Ph is a slow process and I would suggest top dressing your soil with some dolomite. About 3-4 level tablespoons per pot. This will reduce the Ph more quickly than most anything else in soil, but is not detrimental to the soil or the plants as it is still mild enough. 3 - The BIGGIE! (Un)fortunately, you are todays lucky recipient of Organomans rant against de-leafing! Defoliation, especially with autos is a no-no. This could also be the main reason as to why your plants are taking so long to start flowering; - metabolic shock. This can throw your plants 2-4 weeks off their time frame. Each healthy green leaf you removed, was providing energy for your plant to grow. After removing as many leaves as you did, your plant has now had a fit because instead of getting 100% energy, with all those leaves removed, she could be back to only 30-40% energy, causing "metabolic shock". So, the first thing your plant "thinks" is; forget about flowering, I can't make enough energy to accomplish that. First I need to grow some new leaves so I can produce enough energy to flower properly. Then you go and change to feeding her bloom nutrients with lower nitrogen and once again your plant has a fit because she is getting barely enough nutrients to grow leaves, so why would she think about flowering? Combining all these issues together and you get an unhappy plant that is unwilling to flower. Those "bud sites" you thought you were exposing to more light so that they would grow, were actually relying on those very same leaves to produce the energy so that they could grow! The tiny little leaves associated with flowers/"bud sites" can in no way produce as much energy as even just one healthy green "fan"/"shade" leaf. Plants can not "channel" energy, all energy is used throughout the entire plant. A plant does not have a brain to decide where energy will go. There are no energy highways with little policemen directing where energy should flow. So, fewer green leaves = less energy produced = slower and smaller growth. It is basic plant biology 101. Then we get to another down side to leaf removal, and that is the storage of vital growth elements such as sugars, amino acids, carbs etc that the clever cannabis plant deposits in her leaves to be used when she is flowering. This is why leaves will go yellow on otherwise healthy and well fed plants during flowering. It is far more efficient for the plant to reuse the stored elements in her leaves, than it is to make them from new when flowering. Therefore, on top of reducing your plants ability to produce energy by removing healthy green leaves, you are also robbing her of a vital resource of stored vital growth elements that she has cleverly put aside for future use in her older leaves. You should try only removing yellow leaves, for by the time they are yellow, they have served their purpose. Rant ends here! Thanks if you or anybody else made it reading this, this far! So, where do we end up? To sum up, issues with nutes combined with Ph issues combined with massive defoliation has caused your plant to "sulk" basically. How to get a harvest? Feed her some nitrogen after giving her a break from everything except plain water, leave the leaves alone (very important) and let the soil slowly recover. It is then up to you to be patient for a while and with a bit of luck, she will start flowering properly soon enough. At the moment she is recovering from multiple traumas, but being the hardy plant that cannabis is, she will still reward you with tasty flowers. The Grow Diaries "Journal/Blog" section on the home page has much information about growing auto flowering plants in case you want some tips. Hope this helps,....... Organoman.
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WisdomCulture420
WisdomCulture420week 3
Hi good luck and good growth
Closet01
Closet01
@@WisdomCulture420, thanks mate! All a learning curve for me this grow. Thinking about doing some topping soon on a couple to see how the results vary, was going to top after the 5th node.
mRJ519
mRJ519week 4
My friend, I'm worried when you go into flower you may realize that you don't have enough room for the 4 plants. I ended up having to buy a 4x4 and eight feet tall tent to hold my 4 once they went into flower..... Started with a 2x3 and everything was nice and snug at first like yours looks now... Good luck my friend
Closet01
Closet01
@mRJ519, had to buy a tent this week, should be here either tomorrow or Monday. You were right haha
Closet01
Closet01
@mRJ519, hey mate I’m thinking I’ll be in the same boat 😂. Gonna try get them a bit healthier then flick to flower so they aren’t too big hopefully, been having a rough couple days after over watering and now some plants showing some burnt tips and leaves 🤦‍♂️🏻
Shockolateman08
Shockolateman08week 7
No taking of leaves 👍 those bud sites had lots of light, keep in mind it's the leaves that fuel the plant...in turn fuel the buds👊👌 looks good
Closet01
Closet01
@Shockolateman08, thanks mate, my rooms only small and they are filling it up so I’m trying to make space where I can 😅
DoDrugs420
DoDrugs420week 11
Lovelly Jack Herer Auto!!!
DoDrugs420
DoDrugs420week 11
Love it love it love it Jack Herer Auto 4 life.
heizen
heizenweek 11
Nice grow mate, plants are looking good, keep it up, imma follow this one upclose.
Ferenc
Ferencweek 9
Happy Flowering @Closet01
StayWeeded
StayWeededweek 4
IMO I wouldn’t top an auto, as it will usually stunt them and hurt yields. LST is the better option. Also, those little flies could be fungus gnats. Vinegar does work. Yellow sticky tape works great too. Hang them around the room and put them on/near the pots and that should get rid of them. If your topsoil is always wet, that will invite them more so make sure to let the soil dry out between waterings.