2 mutations, Super Fast Growth

Afterglow I'm starting to grow a new strain using my own method. I call it "Crown," although "Multiple Symmetric Lollipopping" is a more fitting name. It's something between Main Lining, Low Stress Training, and SoG. The essence is that we do Topping above the 4th node and then spread all 8 main branches outwards. Four lower branches diagonally, four upper ones crosswise. In the end, it creates a uniform circle of branches growing at the same height, as we can easily control the height of each branch. Technically, you can have 10 or 12 branches, but 8 is enough for me. It's best to have a wide pot to spread the branches out. I hope one day a new MSL method will emerge with my authorship. So, I took two seeds, and the winner in growth will move to a bigger pot. My grow box is homemade. Two HLG 100 lamps, but in reality, both work at 50 watts. It has two filters and two duct fans. One runs constantly, the other turns on automatically when the upper temperature threshold is exceeded. The doors have latches and are sealed to prevent light and smell from escaping. The internal dimensions from the lamp are 67x48x68 centimeters. It fits two bushes, but I prefer to grow only one. How do I germinate seeds? 1. They are always stored in the fridge. When they get into a warm and humid environment, the seeds get the signal to grow and germinate the fastest, literally in 14-16 hours. 2. I take the needed seeds and place them in warm water (18-22 degrees Celsius) for 3-4 hours. This is to soften the shell, warm the seed, and provide enough moisture. 3. I gently crack the shell with manicure scissors. This is done specifically so that the root can start getting air as early as possible. The faster the shell opens, the quicker the root begins to sprout, reducing the risk of rot. 4. I plant it in a tablet or directly into the prepared substrate. Usually, I plant directly into the prepared substrate, but this time I decided to try a peat tablet to select the winner based on growth activity. How do I prepare coconut substrate? 1. I never use old substrate. First, I apply mycorrhiza and many other fungi and bacteria that would be too concentrated for small seedlings and could harm them. Secondly, old coconut has a lot of old roots that will definitely rot. On one hand, this is good, but in reality, it leads to substrate rot and mold formation. 2. I take half a brick, dissolve it in water, rinse it in running water (alternating hot and cold) until all the sea salt is washed out, and then mix it with vermiculite and perlite. 3. I soak the resulting substrate for 15-20 minutes in Cal-Mag fertilizer (1000 PPM) so that the substrate absorbs calcium and magnesium cations; otherwise, for the first week, the coconut will draw these substances from the watering, and the plant will starve. If you measure the PPM of the water after adding Cal-Mag and after 20 minutes, you will see that the PPM drops to 600-700 units. This means the coconut has absorbed the salts. 4. I then water with fertilizer, in the case of a three-component Grow-Micro-Bloom in a ratio of 3-2-1, PPM 1000. I also leave it for 15-20 minutes. This is necessary so that the coconut now evenly absorbs other cations (iron, zinc, copper, potassium, and nitrogen compounds like urea and ammonium). In other words, we are deliberately washing out excess calcium and magnesium. 5. Then, I water with our fertilizer with PPM 600-700 to slightly reduce the concentration. 6. This buffered substrate is where the germinated seed will eventually go. How do I water? For the first three weeks, I water every other day. It doesn't matter if the substrate is dry or not. Coconut substrate allows for this. After that, I have to water every day because the developed root system dries out the entire substrate within a day. I never water with plain water - it only disrupts the pH within the substrate and causes plant stress. If the substrate needs to be flushed, several waterings with the needed fertilizer are prepared. Remember how PPM drops after flushing? The same happens with plain water: nutrients are washed out of the coconut, and when you start "feeding" the plant, it starves because the coconut takes everything to "share" later when it "fills up." The pH during veg is always around 5.6-5.8, and during flowering, it's 5.8-6.1. I try to keep the PPM at 700. During flowering, it's 1200-1400. If you've read this far and saw the scary number of 700 PPM, there's actually nothing to worry about. If you take regular soil, dilute it with water, and measure the PPM, it will be much higher. In fact, a plant can survive even with a PPM of 5000 units. Watering a plant with PPM 300 is too weak a mix. Usually, all guides are oriented towards soil, and manufacturers play it safe by giving lower norms so that buyers don't accidentally burn their plants. But if you have pH and TDS measuring devices, you can confidently feed your plant generously, and it will respond with vigorous growth and dense buds. I always follow the golden rule of checking drainage: PPM rises, pH drops: the plant has indigestion and can't absorb something. PPM drops, pH rises: the plant is starving, or the ion-cation balance is disrupted. PPM stays the same, pH rises: everything is going well. In each case, you need to understand what was done earlier and adjust actions accordingly. So: 01/19/2021, at 12:00 I soaked the seeds in water 01/19/2021, at 16:00 I carefully cracked the seeds and planted them in a peat tablet 01/19/2021, at 23:00 one seed already started to emerge from the peat, even though I buried it. And only 7 hours have passed. I feel like the candidate for transplanting has already shown itself. 01/20/2021, at 16:00 this same seed has already grown a root and fully emerged from the peat. 01/21/2021, at 10:00 it popped out of the peat and is ready to spread its leaves. The second seed is still silent. 01/21/2021, at 17:00 the seedling is about to break the shell to release the first cotyledons. I moved it to the grow box under the lamp. 01/23/2021, at 10:00 it died... never seeing the light. But her younger sister unexpectedly emerged from the peat and stretched 2 centimeters overnight while the lamps were off. I had to manually remove the shell from her. 01/23/2021, at 15:00 the younger sister has already shown a little root tail on the other side of the peat tablet. Tomorrow I will need to transplant her into a normal pot. 01/24/2021, at 14:00 the girl moved to her new home. The first leaves are now the size of the cotyledons. Congratulations are accepted, we have germinated.