Grower of the Month February 2025

Looks like barely any questions get resolved so noone gets any points lol

ive answered quite a few this month lol but it doesnt update i guess. i didnt even realize i was in the running. but now ive noticed it doesnt

Starting to sound like me. Wah

they do a fairly good job weeding out the trash in this contest. people get removed and scores adjusted after the contest for as long as i've been here. I'm sure there's plenty of cheating just like in all the other contests that goes uncaught. It's silly to single this one out when it happens in all of them every month. When motivation exists, corruption follows. It is the human condition that is the problem.

OK :)

with common sense concentrations that anyone would put into a substrate or reservoir, there's not much to worry about with any of the ingredients. ph-balancing twice is unnecessary. just do it at the end. If pH drift is occuring, that is more about an unbuffered solution. That's a manufacturer that didn't hire a chemist. It's really easy to see if anything went haywirere... any solids at the bottom? if not, then no precipitate formed and nothing to worry about. i use calcium nitrate (15-0-0) and the directions are extra anal just in case... just to cover their asses and be safe. I also use a 0-46-0 triple superphosphate that has similar percentage of Ca as calcium nitrate (both around 18%). I'm instruct to mix the cal nitrate separately but i add the TSP to the other part of the fertiizer. Now, it's added in much smaller dose but initialy it's a similar concentration of calcium. I've never seen a precipitate even though it is similar to adding the caclium nitrate which is specifically instructed not to do for fear of precipitates forming. It's better to be safe, but you'd have to really fuck up to cause a precipitate, is my experience. Like adding a bunch of calcium to yout base fertilizer then not immediately mixing it and let it sit for hours, lol. might get a high enough concentration dissolving around the mass of solid cal-nitrate or wahtever and potentially high enough to react with the dissolved sulfur and form insoluble gypsum (precitpitate).

I used Shogun Silicon and that's a strange way of doing it, recomended if making 10L solution to mix 10ml of Silicon into 8L of water after mixing then Ph it to 6-7, then mix nutes into the seperate 2L water one at a time then once all nutes are in the 2L water, put that into the 8L of water, mix check ph and adjust if needed. Very stoned so may not make much sense.

Apparently, If you ever decide to run Advanced Nutrients rhino skin (silica) - You do not need to add it first, I was confused after reading this because like yourself I always read it was always first no exceptions. Absolutely right. Adding nutrients will shift pH, so it's better to adjust pH last. If you knew prior or had calculated for the reaction, you could forgive the oversight, but it is fairly complicated, so I can't see a rational reason for complicating the process. Silica itself is conflicting. Cannabis is a dicot-higher plant, and silica is mostly unavailable to dicot plants. Monocots can accumulate up to 5-10% silicon in their tissue, while dicots accumulate less than 0.5%. The primary site of silica absorption is the plant's roots and as far as I know, can't apply foliar either—a transpiration-driven transport chain through the xylem. Not saying it doesn't help but I feel it's overexaggerated, throw a little diatomaceous earth, and your good for an entire grow.

This has always been slow to update. Maybe they check it as answers come in for cheating? maybe, just whimsically how it works. think what uv meant, was that the new updates and anything mildly related could be causing some temporary issue with function, which is also very possible.

wdym? it just seems weird lol

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