Flush or no?

deberias de seguir lavandolas unas semans mas hasta lo que escurra sea optimo , y casi igual a lo que les estas añadiendo... un saludo

I would be tempted to flush out with a mild nutrient solution. Run lots through it and check your last 200 ml of run off to see if you can get that ppm down. Just keep flushing it through with the nutrients and check 200 ml run off every few litres, it should come down. When your at a sensible ec stop flushing and wait for top inch to dry before next watering/feed. I would do this in one sitting not spread it out over days. So if you can get your bloom nutes at an Ec of 1.0 and flush with them. It will take a lot of water and a bit of time. If you get a bucket and put a wire rack on top of it you can put your plants on that while you do it catching all the run off. And catch 200ml separately every few litres. Hope this makes sense.

Might want to do 2 weeks with that high of a ppm. If they are autos that ppm is more then twice what it needs. You need to look at your trichromes under 60x magnification on buds not leaves and go off the ripeness. There is not enough information to properly address your question.

True nutrient "lock out" does not occur unless the pH is under 5.5 or over 7.5, so it is not a nutrient lock out issue. I would say the deficiencies are due to stopping the application of nitrogen too early. Flushing will cause more problems, as it removes even more nutrients from the soil, furthering the deficiencies. Flushing should really be a last resort when things have gone chronically wrong, not a cure all or a first line of defence against a mystery condition. Plain water would also further the plants lack of nutrition. I, personally, would be giving them a half strength dose of "grow" nutrients, maybe two, before going back to the bloom nutrients. This should see your plants pick up and slow the cannibalizing of themselves that they are now doing, due to the lack of goodness in the soil. I like to give grow nutrients for the first 2 weeks or so of flowering, before changing to half strength grow and half strength bloom nutrients for the following 2 or so weeks, before again changing to straight bloom nutrients through to just before harvest. This seems to produce the biggest and healthiest flowers, on plants that don't completely exhaust themselves. I have been doing so for 30+ years and exclusively use this schedule when growing in soil, which is the only way I ever grow and can thoroughly recommend this technique to all growers using soil, either indoors or outdoors. Hope this helps, Organoman.