Yield -- mostly about your light (a minimum amount will avoid larf... more is not always better, as there is a ceiling to this, too) google DLI (daily light integral) to understand this more. a 21-22 DLI is as low as you want to go if you want to grow trash, and i'd recommmend shooting for max DLI in ambient co2 conditions in future when you got some extra dollars. (35-42DLI)
DLI is apples to apples comparison regardless of size of garden or hours of light use... this is why it's abetter term to udnerstand. Fewer explanations and factoring needed to communicate a basic idea.
Quality -- mostly about genetics.
So, don't waste money on gimmicks... a nice light, quality fertilizer is not expensive, and a little care and effort on your part will maximize what you can given what you got.
Don't think you have to buy marijuana branded products... ammonium nitrate is always ammunion nitrate regardless of any snazzy packaging. there are not "grades" of fertilizer. Do get the ones with a guaranteed analysis label, of course.
ph is important.. but with a proper fertilizer product, shoudln't be an issue. i buy a 100-pack of strips every 3-4 years for spot-checking at key points -- e.g. my biggest worry is my tap water changing... so, if i test that before germinating seeds, i avoid a huge risk of catastophic failure due to something i cannot control. It has happened. befove. i lost 160 USD worth of seeds cause my tap magically shifted from 8.4 to 7.0 one winter and i was still adjusting based on 8.4... made it super acidic and 80% of the seeds failed to germinate.
substrate should be cheap too... is biobizz soil or soilless? not sure... either way, just make sure the medium has good drainage.. if peat-based soil, you want close to 50/50.. if coco-based, you want 70/30... the difference is due to the carrying capacity of each. coco holds a lower volume of water, but at 50/50 and 70/30 with perlite or similar, they are very similar in capacity. this will avoid any droopiness after irrigations.. virtually impossible to overwater unless you dump endless gallons on it until it droops.
Light, Light, Light... this is where you spend the money. A more expensive light will actually last the advertised 50,000 hours or more and the monthly operating cost will be cheaper each month that you should fly past 'break-even' point after 2-3 years. With only 100w, i wouldn't worry too much about getting teh "Best" but i'd avoid the no-name brands on amazon. cheap lights run hotter (greater impact on your grow area temperatures) and dim sooner. they are cheaper day 1 but end up costing you rmore over their use.
again, at 100w / small garden this is probably going to amount to an insignificant amount, but will quickly add up and be worth it if you ever start running 600-1000w or more. A cooler light evaporates fewer terps, too. so, cooler equipment may have a positive impact on flavor/aroma too, but that would require a lot of testing to be confident.
NPK Ca/Mg/S and trace elements... the important stuff...
then you got hormones and inoculents etc etc.. most of this stuff is unproven like vitamins and othe supplements humans take... so, flip a coin on that shit. this is where you can spend a lot and get virtually nothing in return due to marketing bullshit. i won't speak about any 1 particular product other than you should approach that stuff with skepticism to start to avoid confirmation bias... for many, once they spend money on something their ego will not allow them to admit that it does not have any impact, lol. cuase, they'd be stupid? i guess? but it isn't stupid if someone lies to you... it's a learning moment and you move on.... better than you were before.. though a bit poorer for it.