K deficiency almost wiped out this plant. What do I do now?

I don't see k-deficiency here... or at least not the pimary symptom. K-def is characteristically in the tips of serations... these tun rusty o burn in dramatic fashion and then you get necrotic spots and paling of leaves as it progresses into later stages. N/P/K weighted aveage and mostly reduced to intiger ratios, not 100% precise but close enough.. Ignoring concentration for a moment. Week 9 through 11 - 4/2/5 Week 12 - 4/3/8 Week 12 is just about the ratio you want. If K is up around 200, then N is around 120. Though a bit more P would be good. A 4L4:8 ratio will keep a greater variety of plants happy off one formula. Should only have to mess with concentration with minimal adjustments to ratio... assumes your secondary and trace elements are in order too. Nitty gritty numbers: 13:14:24 ratio at proper concentration would result in about a 125ppm / 59ppm / 192 ppm addition (if soilless this would be every irrigation, if soil, your weighted aveage over time would add up to this) This would be great for vege phase. and then maybe 10% less N in bloom phase... obseve and react to any dark foliage / glossiness... essentially, something near 1:1:and bit less than 2, and preferably a hair lage on the P. ~25% incease to p. Your weighted aveage N should be roughly half of weighted average K from labels (USA labeling standards). 4:2:5 on the other hand is out of balance... your resulting N and K ppms are very similar. So oyu either have a good N and low K or a very high N and good K with this ratio at these 2 specific concentration points based on what you want for N or K. e,g if N is near 125ish, K is 130ish, which over time will be too little unless your soil has some slow release K amendment that supplements this. Along, this guarantees an k-def. e.g. if K is near 190ish, then N is over 180ish. This will guaanteed result in N-tox. Now, i'm leaving my intiial thoughts, just to show that the facts alwys trump initial feelings. i was at least partially wrong.. based on what you fed lately, it's very likely low on k, but potentially needs more N too. I didn't wok out your ppms fed. Your new ratio from week 12 should work MUCH better, fwiw. if giving correct conentration relative to fertigation frequency, should work out well for NPK, specifically. If you can bump P just a tad without drastically changing other stuff, that could be good too. Using 'hydo' nutes in this context may always be a good idea... it provides plant-available nutes for a faster response. no microbes needed to chelate the molecultes in order to diffuse into roots, etc. If it's just regular soil as opposed to some supersoil or with slow reelase long-term nute capacity, then you basically treat it like a soilless grow near end... since you are providing 100% of nutes. if drainage is sufficient, you can even fertilize each time at 1.3-1.5ec concentration near with the ratio discussed above... minimal changes to N needed more than anything else. Soil pH may require slightly different ratio... but once you find it... it's very minimal work from there. i often run 7-8 strains off 1 reservoir and arely see a def/tox symptom.. maybe soem minor hints, but a quick adjustment avoids any permanent damage within 1 irrigation. it is most definitely possible with 3 years of consistency in this regard, so far.

Hola si te quedan 3 semanas puedes hacer lo que dice growinggrannie. Guardaria una semana, la ultima para hacer lavado de raices y la planta pueda consumir sus ultimas reservas de nutrientes. Esto generaria mejor gustoben las flores. Suerte

Hi there All you could really do this late in flower is just add a decent PK booster, Best of luck 🌱