Hey guys sorry I didn’t have time to add all the...

With this knowledge I'd say just lower the feed a bit but not by much because they really don't look all that bad tbh. A little short yeah but they will stretch as soon as they go into bloom.

side note.. think pH shoudl be 6.0-6.2 range for different reasons than given.. it's more room for error above and below for the availability of the various molecules involved in the plant's chemistry. you accidentally drift below 5.8 and yo almost assuredly lockout Ca... and just being at 5.8 you have to give a higher dose of Ca than necessary, i bet. The numbers i gave are for 6.0 ... i am in soilless, too. i've used both peat (50/50perlite) and coco (70/30) with this formula is it works equally well in each. With given ratios of substrate:perlite, they have nearly the exact same water capacity per volume. So, they behave very similarly. I don't have to ph-adjust... good fertilizer does it for you... good fertilizer also doesn't suffer from pH drift except in extreme situations involving a microbial growth or just something terribly wrong going on, lol... liek bat shit insane because it just shouldn't happen with a good product. properly buffered nutes don't swing. I don't clean my rez for 3 months, FFS, bWAHAHA. pH is rock solid.

I don't see a question, but perused your diary... plants look a bit off so i assume it's about that. here's what i'd suggest in a soilless grow. Keep it simple until you get consistent results, then worry about playing mad scientist with changing formulas at this stage or that... you may find a lot of that is just self-absorbed and meaningless, lol. the plant does 95% of everything. There's very litte we can do beyond providign light, water and nutrients in proper proportions and concentrations. (both ratio and concentration are equally importnt for fertilization) Soilles is simple.. well-balanced feed somewhere between 1.3-1.5 and fertilize every irrigation with at least 10% runoff (waste water, don't let it sit in it... fine for plants outside not in pots or toss it down a drain). do a weighted average of your NPK values based on dose and they should be somewhere near 8:8:15 ratio. This wont vary much strain to strain. The concentration you want that at will... The plant's metabolism is based on factors liek how much light it receives, temps, RH%, et al... but the ratios don't change too much unless the water used is adding something. Water will have some mg, ca et al unless you use RO water or otherwise filtered. So, Ca, Mg and S will vary a bit more. you can use an online calculater to find the resulting ppms of what you feed... per molecule.. finer resolution, at least initially, can help hammer out a good formual. 120-140 N -- some plants can use more or less.. even in bloom i find 110-120 does not cause any toxicities, so it's obviously being metabolized by plant in absence of toxicity. P - i've had a come to jesus moment about P .. i never had issues but lower levels of p result in a plant that is also more susceptible to disease. Amping up to 60ppm has seemed to cause all my problems to dissipate from recent grows over last 2 years.. so at least 60ppm P. K - 190-200ish. if you are 8-8-15 label ratio (US not EU, as p and k values on label differ there, i think? at least one does), then you are looking at these values when in the 1.3-1.5EC range.. mathematical certainty. Ca - 100+ Mg - 80+ i have very hard water and that's what i used... i recently started using water from softener, which should contain less ca/mg, and so far i haven't needed to tweak my formula in regard to either... Mg is tricky, because symptoms don't show up until 4-6 weeks after the deficiency began in the plant... a lagging visual indicator. I have a calendar makring the week i need to look for interveinal chlorosis and spots from Mg def. but so far, no need to bump Ca and i definitely lost some ppms from the very hard tap water i used previously. S - 100+ / 110+? -- this one i have less confidence in . Some variation is possible.. like i said not all water is the same. But, this will get you in a small ballpark. work combinations of your products to get near that 8-8-15 ratio or use the manic botanix online fertilizer ppm calculator to look a bit closer at each component. I can tell you through experience that tracking this stuff shorted the feeding learning curve immensely. I rarely have any visible symptoms except a few plants that clearly have ssome genetic defects visible otherwise. i do have to give a bit less N in bloom. In my experience the same upper thresholds for K exist in both bloom and vege around same concentration. I'm learning more P than before, despite not showing any problems, is beneficial. I did that from the start and no pm issues after being plagued by it for a while, now. low-p plants are more suscepible to disease, so there's a good chance i'm right here... and a chance i'm wrong... time will tell. But, other than that, i don't change much from vege to bloom formulas... i drop my N 10-20ppm and continue to read the plants for overly dark leaves... that's really the only thing i do differently between plant phases. The general makeup of cells isn't drastically different despite the different physiology. cell walls, dna, organelles are still made of teh same molecules. So, drastic shifts are probably more akin to wanting to do something that helps more than actually helping. anyway, forma baseline first, then play mad scientist.. at least then you can compare it to a quasi control group of small sample results... rather than just a gut feeling which the more i look around the more i see, bwahaha.

Your PH is very low for a soil grow. Aim to increase this to around 6.5 moving forwards. I suspect the plants have been over-watered as the leaves appear to be showing signs of this. However, under and over-watering can both lead to similar symptoms. You should be aiming to water the plants every 2-3 days. You want to give them lots of water every few days, rather than little amounts of water often. The pots need time to dry out between watering. Good luck!

Don't keep your pH at one fixed value. You'll probably notice your run off will be far more acidic after a while. Aim for between 6.5 and 6.0 and you should be good .. there's always a good chance your pH meter is off or bring affected by water temperature (I'm a water quality analyst by trade) This kind of looks like over watering or some sort of stress to me and it may or may not be pH related... Let the soil dry out for a few days and then hit it with a full dose of Calmag at 6.5 pH and see what happens.. I wouldn't do too many things at once