if you gave a rundown of the ppms of each nute provided it'd be easier to give an answer. I find most feed schedules are trash, tbh.
Even the good ones require some fine-tuning. Your environment will cause a different rate of growth which requires a different rate of nutrient provision to match. Several relativistic factors are invovled from resulting VPD to existing CO2 levels.
Have you tried contacting the seller? be polite and ask clear questions. maybe, they have seen it before? obviously soe shady vendors will just lie if they know there's some disease they are selling/spreading around for a dollar. If they aren't shady and aware of a problem, they might even replace it for you? show some pics.
I'll say this, if it isn't nute-related, when i have had a plant that is just fucked up, it rarely turns out well. I've feed 150+ plants (not many, but can see a trend at this point, prolly) a formula that only shifts minor amounts of any component over the years relative to any life stage - it's "stable" for all intents and purposes - ratio and overall concentration. 95% or more of plants have been fine off 1 reservoir for 5 years. i don't say this to brag or compare. i mean it as in the anecdotal guess i am making is likely to be true (defective plants are not worth it, but not guaranteed when the context is infinitely complex given all the relativistic factors that can wreak havoc.
The only reason i keep one is if that space would otherwise be empty. If it is crowded at all, i'm trashing defective plants and compensating to fill smaller gaps with a little longer vege time if needed.
i can't tell you if that is a disease or not. It can come in the soil you buy occasionally. it could be in a cutting from a diseased mother occasionally..
Secondly, your irrigation habit looks a bit odd given the pattern of moist substrate on top. if done right it shouldn't dry like that. Always water entire volume with no dry pockets. I see you are in coco, so that's easy as pie for a soilless context. Fertilize everytime with an EC around 1,3 to 1,5 EC (may need more or less but will be small adustments from there) with 10% runoff... if religious about this method, you will never have a toxicity caused by a "build up" in the substrate. you can still accidentally give too much of something, but you know it's your fault, which is a good thing and makes discerning problems and adjusting easy to do. you know nothing is building up, the pH should be stable (with a good product used) etc etc... the only possible issues are specifically realted to ratio of nutes given and concetration of them.
check out Mulder's Chart to see how complicated this shit is... A matrix of antagonistic and stimulative relationships exist among all these molecules used to feed a plant. it's a fuckin mess, lol.
if you can work out ppm i'd suggest starting near this ballpark:
120 - 130 ish ppm N (may need 10 to 20% less in bloom)
60+ ppm P
190+ ppm K
100+ Ca
75+ Mg
less than 110 ppm S
this will vary a bit based on water used. our tap often includes Mg and Ca to some extent. but if you start near this, you shouldn't have many adjustments to make. it's probably around a 1,3 ec which is quite mild and def won't cause any major, fast moving problem. When you drop N, you should also drop Mg in bloom slightly. Refer to Mulder's chart to see why that is... a stimulation relationship exists between those two molecules. i've only recently incorporated that wrinkle into my adjustments. I expect to further improve my results and avoid overly lush leaves that occasionally present late flower for me.
the 10% runoff keeps it in a safe / fertile range to optimally provide nutes to the plant in right proportions.. that's the goal. it's measurable and through observation can know it in a specific way relative to your garden. you can be certain it's not nutes at that point.