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Leaf edges a bit yellow and now some yellow mottling. Signs of the same problem?

DFWmd
DFWmdstarted grow question a year ago
Leaf discoloration now on a few leaves.... Could this be continuing signs of an imbalance caused by switching nutrients for the first week of 12/12? Please see my previous question about yellow leaf edges and Sciolistic_Steve's answer. I'll be switching nutes tomorrow anyway...
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Leaves. Color - Mottling
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Sciolistic_Steve
Sciolistic_Steveanswered grow question a year ago
Short and sweet i copied and pasted last couple sentences with some tidbits added: so keep eye on those few leaves degredating, could be nothing since it is isolated and could just be shedding them if lower on plant or well-shielded from light. Watch for advanced symptoms of P or K tox (get a chart!), and eliminate possibility of a S-deficiency as cause of chlorosis in new growth (no red streaks in stems). ------ how i got there.... These are different symptoms with different causes. How the damage starts, where it is on plant and how it progresses helps diagnose. more than one thing can cause interveinal chlorosis -- palying between veins as seen in your pictures. light damage could start out this way -- though i don't know if it's technically chlorosis or not? if this is only the top most leaves, that brings light into it, but if it's lower on the plant you can easily eliminate that as a potential cause. in previous question you had some symptoms around the serated tips on leaves. That tends to be related to potassium(K). Looks like that has abated, at least. it will help you to speed up learning curve if you keep track of weighted-average of n/p/k/ca/mg/s percents relative to proportion of formula. e.g. i have a 5-12-26 and 15-0-0. i use 3 of one and 2 of other. choosing these values for ease, not reality. calnitrate is 2/3rds the dose x 15 = 10. So i am adding a ratio of 15-12-26. i'm not busting out my ingredient labels. this limited example exlpains it. i also have a nutrient ppm calculator, but the ratios will work well ontheir own and basic common sense on overall EC fed will allow you to see what is you are feeding in a resolved way and can more easily eliminate possibilities of the symptoms you see. lots of things cause internveinal chlorosis. it's a wild guess without more information. your canopy looks to be in good shape. New growth has some chlorosis, which is why i thought K or P was too high. This is common with "bloom" instructions. so if oyu see this progress, reconsider their instructions. i don't see many leaves with the issues of these pictures given. you say they are few and far between. this is a good thing. if they are older or shielded leaves, the plant may just be shedding them. in either case, when it is a very limited symptom, be patient. let it play out a bit. see how it progresses. even location on plant is important to diagnosing. if it happens at top, it's an immobile nutrient. if it happesn at bottom it is a mobile nutrient. there are shades between, too. diagnosing is always some part a guess. once you have more familiarity, it'll be 99% certainty 1% guess. Get a leaf chart. Keep asking questions as you learn, but start using one to form our own opinion on things. Once dialed in the type of stuff you will react to will be minor, slowly progressing things requing small tweaks, especially if you track how you feed and use that to help diagnose as you gain more experience. the shared folder from my google drive link in main profile comment section has a leaf symptom chart. google image search can easily find one too. some are more detailed than others. The one i prefer has worked well for 4-5 years so far. Feel pretty confident in the information it gives. one last thing, if i am wrong about the elevated p or k causing chlorosis on new growth, it could be low S -- this will be supported by a further symptom that is hard to miss. This would coincide with red streaks in the stems/trunk (Not leaf stems, aka petioles, that is different symptom or related genetics/LED use) so keep eye on those few leaves degredating... could just be shedding. Watch for advanced symptoms of p or k tox (get a chart!), and eliminate S-deficiency as cause of chlorosis in new growth (no red streaks in stems)
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DFWmd
DFWmdanswered grow question a year ago
I think Sciolistic_Steve was right, since as he mentioned, there were red stripes on the lower trunk. So, sulfur deficiency. Maybe it was locked out because of the Bloom or I'd measured/calculated the Epsom salt (mag sulfate) erroneously? Since I'm now back to the previous fertigation solution that seemed to be working well, I'll likely not try to supplement sulfur other than maybe add a bit extra Epsom salt this week at least? Glad to have a (likely) answer. I'll add a pic of the red stripes to my diary even though I'm marking this question as answered, in case it's helpful for anyone else.
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DFWmd
DFWmdanswered grow question a year ago
I appreciate the feedback. I'm not sure I'll be continuing with Jack's Nutrients; maybe I'll just stick with General Hydroponics Micro, Grow, Bloom for the most part, at least with future grows. That's what I used many years ago with my first grow and it seemed fine. The website for Jack's discusses their nutrient schedule using the same NPK for veg and flower: https://www.jacksnutrients.com/post/getting-technical-veg-and-flower by pointing out, as Sciolistic_Steve did, that nitrogen is still definitely important in the flower stage. Jack's has their Bloom with a lot of P for the first week (or two) of flower and their Finish with a lot of K for the final week (or two) before flush/harvest. That video says they don't recommend Bloom more than a week or two because then calcium deficiency comes into play. They don't really say why not have a flower formula with a higher ration of P that wouldn't cause a calcium deficiency. I think I'll stick with Jack's Nutrients for this grow and continue using their nutrient schedule. People mention ppm of N, P, K, etc., and I've been sticking with EC. I guess I need to research more how to translate that to ppm to better keep an eye on ratios. As Sciolistic_Steve also notes, I'm learning basics first then will learn more detail for fine-tuning as I go. Anyone reading this, please feel free to follow my diary and chime in with thoughts/advice/feedback as I go. I'm sure I'll also keep asking grow questions as they come up. Thanks again!
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Organoman
Organomananswered grow question a year ago
Magnesium deficiency.
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Sciolistic_Steve
Sciolistic_Steveanswered grow question a year ago
Mg deficiency usually has soem spots that accompany the interveinal chlorosis. i'd hold off on that diagnosis until you are certain. the fact it is onl 3 leaves, means you can easilyl afford seom patience. Guess what'sworse than your current problem? compounding it with a new toxicity trying to fix the 'wrong' thing, lol. always easier to add than take away. patience, grasshopper. and ignore those ratios for vege and clower, that clown doesn't know what he is talking about. N is supremely important in all phases and needed in similar levels. Cell wals, amino acids, organelles all use N when the cell divides. law of conservation of mass, people.. c'mon.. quit saying stupid shit. that guy once said "you don't need any N in flower" which is just insanity. 120ppm in a hydro context. much higher for soil due to dynamics of non-chelated nitrogren and need for microbes to break it down to plant-sized bites.
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AutoflowersSucK
AutoflowersSucKanswered grow question a year ago
Lower plant right? If yes it does indeed look like early magnesium deficiency And yes, agreed on the use of H202. Unless you have root rot then you dont need it. And dont use hydrogen peroxide because its full of stabilizers which are chemicals.
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Roberts
Robertsanswered grow question a year ago
Looks like a magnesium deficiency, and you should not use H202 unless you are treating a issue. It generally kills everything including any beneficial life in substrate. Flowering npk ratio is 1-2-3. Vegging npk ratio is 3-1-2. You should shift from the one to the other as she stretches.
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