Problem with leaves

Light you mentioning is huge man.. at this intensity of a plants i recommend you to next time go with more plants or just increase size of a tent OR play with dimer ✊ I saw your comment, and following what's mentioned on the bottle is a little mistake, this numbers are average numbers, if your climate is hot evaporation goes faster and if it's cold evaporation goes slower, in case of hot its better to decrease amount of nutrients and increase amount of water and in case of cold its recommended to increase fertilizers, still it's an average situations 😇

You are overfert and have a magnesium deficiency given by this over

Well, their instructions don't work so well, eh? Fertilization programs cand and do have consistent results no matter how many strains you grow from 1 reservoir, so it is possible and those that fall short must have something wrong with them. ---- Looks K-def or Fe-def, but the iron would be unusual as that's usually in the substrate or nutes (not coco, though). check your labels and make sure some fraction of a % of Fe is given "somewhere" (even tap/well water may have enough Fe) and if not this could be the cause, but trace element issues are usually caused by ph or nute lockout. if you don't have guarnateed analysis labels... well.. that's the drawback of using "organic" products with their inconsistent contents. "organic" is a marketing term that has bastardized science term that was only meant to be a loos categorization and plagued with human-centric feelings even in science. e.g. co2 is inorganic, so there's not one "organic" garden ever, anywhere fromteh beginning of time until now. To worry about such a word that has not real link to causality isn't needed. Not saying some organic products aren't great or that you could find consistent products you can depend on, but it's jumbled up into the madness of false perceptions and motivations to maximize profits through deceptive marketing ploys and feeding misconceptions of the people. --- Anyway, if you don'tknow what you provide over time, it's 10x harder to diagnose the problem as symptoms have overlaps and it is not a 1:1 diagnosis every time. Lots of maybes and should be(s) involved even if you do keep track.-------- i'm not as familiar with soil, but i'd go with a 212 weighted average of NPK. If you have plant-ready N source, then use a 1-1-2 ratio. This depends on what the source of nitrogen is and whether you need microbes to break it down for the plant. You'll need a much higher dose of N in the latter context. 4:2:1 ratio for K:Ca:Mg -- this is based on USA standards for labeling fertilizers. Compare to these and maybe it'll enlighten a path or not. Trying to change a feeding regimen midstream in soil isn't easy to do... the soil will take a while before it's at any new equilibrium relative to fertilization practices.

Okay so for some reason i could not reply on my own question, I use the plagron organic nutrients Eg alga Bloom, On top of that i give -pk13-14 -power buds -power roots (to stop after this week) From next week i will be adding green sensation to my water as well I also use reverse osmose water Though i do not test my ph since i have been told that the alga bloom does not need it. All of my feedings are the recomended dosages as mentioned on the bottle

looks like nitrogen toxicity what have you been feeding with next time dial back on nitrogen they only require a small amount of nitrogen during the flower phase

Should i guess, what and how much you give as fertigation? Both need more nutrition. Everything wil be fine, in a few weeks. Dont worry too much. So many plants could have much more light.