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first dry amendment grow showing nitrogen toxicity.

Shemmie
Shemmiestarted grow question 4 months ago
I should be giving both of them their final dry amendment feeding for the rest of the grow this week, but I want to push it off. Both plants from what I can tell are getting nutrient burn from Nitrogen ( dark green leaves) and unsure if I should just flush or not.
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Week 6
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001100010010011110
001100010010011110answered grow question 4 months ago
I wouldn't feed anymore. Maybe reformulate a bit because something is out of balance in nutrient diet. These plants might be a bit overfed on N - dark/glossy - but the other symptoms are not n-tox related. Maybe too much P, too little K or nute-lockout of some sort (mulder's chart). Knowing the proportions of how you feed would help out greatly to deduce what it is. It's muc more difficult measuring waht you add over time compared to a soilless/hydro context, but it all should be in similar ratios. Weighted average of npk, if using "organic" N sourceces, 2-1-2, and with readily available N sources 1-1-2 is good ballpark to start -- these are rough ideas. Some sources of N require bacteria and other stuff to help break it down, so you need a healthy stock of inputs for the right amount of plant-available N on the output side. if you find .7-1.2-2.3 works over several months without issues after adjusting from 1-1-2, then that's what works. Observation and adjustments requried. It'd be some sort of whacky ratio of whole numbers, so take these rounded suggestions as a grain of salt. If your current ratio relative eto dosage is way off, consider adjusting it... also it might point toward a diagnosis too. I like the water-only idea for a bit. Let those leaves cannibalize themselves a bit. See how the 'other' damage progresses to help identify it. Flushing is for extreme catastrophe, and i don't think you are at that point. Minimal runoff in soil or 10% in soiless as normal is fine. That damage is not N-related. it is at the top of the plant. N can lockout potassium, but your plant doesn't seem sickly enough for that to be the case. could be wrong. Too much p is something often recommended for flower. usually it is a total waste to add more. Research backs that up and my own experience does as well. I've been playing with elevated P levels from 50-70ppm for the last couple years and don't see a reason to continue to do so. 40-50ppm is fine in a soilless fertigation regimen seed to harvest. In facts multiple studies have shownmore than 30ppm is not adding anything to the plant either - yield or potency. Numerous studies show that amping up pa nd k in flower do not bulk up yields. this is just another false anecdote of people that want to beleive what they do always has a positive effect without ever measuring and comparing to a control group. though i'll still stay around 40-60ppm due to OCD and not anything intelligent, lol.
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BerrySweetHigh
BerrySweetHighanswered grow question 4 months ago
Helll Shemmie, Yes flush! Your plant doesn't need that much Nitrogen anymore during the flowering phase and the EC is waaay to high inside your soil. You want to do a single flush where you give only water with pH 6.2 and you want to use 3 times the pot volume. So when your pot is 20 liters you want to flush with 60 liters. This way you flush out the Nitrogen and the nutrient salts that builded up inside your soil. Let the soil dry out till at least the top 2 inches (5 centimeters) are completely dry before watering again to prevent other problems. After this you can continue feeding like you did before but 75% from the nutrients that you gave before will be enough to prevent future nutrient burning. Happy Growing Buddy! 💚
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Organoman
Organomananswered grow question 4 months ago
No, don't flush and don't feed any more for a while at least. Flushing when there are dry ammendments can cause even more nutrients to be leached into the substrate, compounding the problem and making things worse, not better. Personally, I am not a fan of dry ammendments, they are too vague in their availability and require the substrate to be constantly moist to act properly, something that cannabis doesn't really like. They are also slow acting and very hard to correct, both in under feeding and over feeding situations. You are far better off using liquid, cannabis specific fertilizers in the future, it will make feeding your plants much more precise, controlled and regulated. At this stage, I would be giving just plain pHed water, in normal amounts and at normal intervals, for the next 2-3 weeks at least and then monitoring your plants recovery and only feeding with some bloom nutrients (liquid) if requird. Some kelp/seaweed extract or tonic would add potassium for flower development and aid recovery, without adding excessive nitrogen.......this may be a good place to start once you resume feeding in the future.
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oldskoolkool
oldskoolkoolanswered grow question 4 months ago
Are you sure the leaves aren't meannt to be that dark?And what amedments have you been given?Im thinking that could potasium deficiant.She will use more in wk 1 and 2 and wk 5 in 8wks of flower.In dry amendments she wants shite for P and ash for K.
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gottagrowsometime
gottagrowsometimeanswered grow question 4 months ago
No don't flush.. Just don't add any more dry additives. Arent they meant to be just applied twice, 1 for growth & the other bloom? But yes, you have serve nutrient burn, that's gonna change its leaves. But I'd say your good till ripening & then push PK and she'll take in N naturally from stored leaves. Let it finish pre flower. Take any leaves you would have, and removed the damaged ones instead.. Pushing into fattening if she wants more you'll know..
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