Check the surface of your medium if you're having problems with fungus gnats. The gnats live in the top few centimeters of the substrate, where they breed and hatch. If the surface is covered with 1-2 cm of perlite or even better, quartz sand (they don't like sharp edges), they can no longer breed in your substrate, as the surfaces dry out quickly and the larvae need moisture.
Regarding the vitality of the leaves and your notes in your diary, I would guess ultraviolet and 01010111… are right, overwatering can also deform and droop the leaves, always let the roots dry out a bit so they can breathe oxygen. For starters, a humidifier is always good, later a dehumidifier makes sense when the plants themselves transpire enough to keep everything in the green range. If you want to be precise, a humidity controller is also worth it; there are already affordable ones for about 30-40 euros on eBay.
Here, the vapor pressure deficit (VPD) between the leaf and the room helps you, which is essentially an expression of your plants' transpiration. If the VPD is outside the range of 0.4-1.6, either no transpiration occurs due to oversaturation of water vapor, or it is so dry that the plant closes its stomata, slows down or stops respiration to protect itself from drying out, which would be the case for you. With the deformation, it tries to reduce the transpiration area; the plants are still very small and react very sensitively to dry conditions at this growth stage.
Here’s a table where you can read the correct values: https://images.app.goo.gl/Yy68mZsngq2qLroo9
Be careful, there are different tables for sodium vapor lamps and LEDs because LEDs emit less heat and warm the leaf surfaces less; the tables estimate the difference between leaf and room temperature. With a pyrometer, you can calculate everything precisely if you want to take it to the next level.
At 28 degrees, it would be 75-80% for NDL, rather up to 85%.