Water chlorine content and ph value

I've been smoking cigarettes 40 years and it didn't do me no harm.

I have used tap water for every stage of growth, from seedlings to harvest for 40 years now and can not say it makes any REAL difference. I think most people are paranoid in their heads about tiny, tiny quantities of a basically harmles chemical. I do however use aged tap water for seed sprouting and obviously would prefer to use rain water when possible. If you are only growing a couple of plants, having a bucket or three of water to age before use would be the go. Leave tap water in the bucket to sit for 24-48 hours before use and most of the chlorine will dissapate. However, if you are growing upwards of 10 plants this becomes impractical, so just use water straight from the tap, your plants won't mind. If the water is "fit for human consumption" then it is fine for your plants!

Halides are chemical substances such as Flouride, Chlorine and Bromide. Halides can often be found in toothpaste, dental products and tap water. The Pineal gland is especially sensitive to fluoride in the water. Fluoride, and other chemical substances like chlorine, are bad for the pineal as they deposit on tissues rich in calcium, such as the pineal. Flouride is the most common and widespread in our diets. It is magnetically attracted to the pineal gland more so than any other part of the body. Here it forms calcium phosphate crystals which accumulate. In particular, the fluoride present in our drinking water has been proven to calcify (or harden) this vital area of the brain — thus reducing its function.

Solutions. Ultraviolet light The use of ultraviolet light for chlorine or chloramine removal is an established technology that has been widely accepted in pharmaceutical, beverage, and dialysis applications.UV is also used for disinfection at aquatic facilities. Ascorbic acid and sodium ascorbate Ascorbic acid (vitamin C) and sodium ascorbate completely neutralize both chlorine and chloramine, but degrade in a day or two, which makes them usable only for short-term applications. SFPUC determined that 1000 mg of vitamin C tablets, crushed and mixed in with bath water, completely remove chloramine in a medium-size bathtub without significantly depressing pH. Activated carbon Activated carbon has been used for chloramine removal long before catalytic carbon, a form of activated carbon, became available[citation needed]; standard activated carbon requires a very long contact time, which means a large volume of carbon is needed. For thorough removal, up to four times the contact time of catalytic carbon may be required.[citation needed] Most dialysis units now depend on granular activated carbon (GAC) filters, two of which should be placed in series so that chloramine breakthrough can be detected after the first one, before the second one fails. Additionally, sodium metabisulfite injection may be used in certain circumstances. [full citation needed] Campden tablets Home brewers use reducing agents such as sodium metabisulfite or potassium metabisulfite (both proprietorially sold as Campden tablets) to remove chloramine from brewing fermented beverages. However, residual sulfite can cause off flavors in beer so potassium metabisulfite is preferred. Sodium thiosulfate Sodium thiosulfate is used to dechlorinate tapwater for aquariums or treat effluent from wastewater treatments prior to release into rivers[citation needed]. The reduction reaction is analogous to the iodine reduction reaction. Treatment of tapwater requires between 0.1 and 0.3 grams of pentahydrated (crystalline) sodium thiosulfate per 10 L of water[citation needed]. Many animals are sensitive to chloramine, and it must be removed from water given to many animals in zoos.[citation needed] Other methods Chloramine, like chlorine, can be removed by boiling and aging. However, time required to remove chloramine is much longer than that of chlorine. The time required to remove half of the chloramine (half-life) from 10 US gallons (38 L; 8.3 imp gal) of water by boiling is 26.6 minutes, whereas the half-life of free chlorine in boiling 10 gallons of water is only 1.8 minutes. Aging may take weeks to remove chloramines, whereas chlorine disappears in a few days.

The chlorine in tap water is not enough to cause any issues in 4-6 months or even longer. Maybe, with a mother plant you want to dechlorinate, but if you also get a good 10% runoff or more, it can't build up to any level that matters. The plant actually uses a small amount of chlorine. Chlroinewill gas off quickly and be broken down by sunlight very fast - ask anyone with a pool. Even so, it is a total waste to do so except in an extreme case where a local municipality dumps a hazardous amount of Cl into the water, and would likely sicken people too, lol. Chlorine will gas off from the pot, too. .. it's not like the plant drinks it all in 5-minutes after applying it. This is an absolute boogeyman of people that don't know any better about the scale/concentration involved. chloramine will not gas off in any time frame that makes sense. Leaving a batch of water out for long enough would simply cause stagnat, bacterial riddled water that'll be bad to use on plants. Even leaving water out for 24-48hours is a net negataive for chlorine 99.999% of the time. you should use any water or fertilizer water within 2-3 days anyway.. i break that rule all the time, lol, but it's better safe than sorry. if you have OCD about it, set it out in the sunlight for a few hours... that'll be enough for chlorine and not stagnate the water, but nothing is removing chloramine in an appropriate amount of time or effort expended. Check local water quality report for a breakdown on your water. Some countries may not do this. I used to use my hard tap water for 3 years or so. Never had a problem. I switched to a softend tap because it was closer and had a 250% higher GPM, so i could fill my rez faster and more conveniently. Haven't had a problem with softened water (some tiny level of Na in it) in 2 or so years since. and, that's "soft" water, lol. * It does help that i'm in a soilless context. With religious 10% or greater runoff you don't get buildup over time - this is not a common practice for soils due to the waste of leaching off pre-amended nutrients in runoff, at least early on until those nutes are exhausted.

I use a Britta Water filter 1.5L jug to filter out the chlorine. It's costlier than the previous suggestions though, but you can use the filtered water immediately.

Hello mowax thought I would share some of my research in an aim to prevent other growers from having the same problems I've had. What the Cannabis community commonly thinks of as nutrient burn, pH issue, or deficiency is actually the result of Chlorine and Chloramine in Cannabis. Chlorine and Chloramine problems will present themselves in multiple ways. The symptoms are burnt leaf tips (reddish brown tinge about 1-4mm in length that point up), rusted spots, naturally torn leaves that shrivel where broken, and a reddish brown micro spots on your leaves. You may also experience narrower fan leaves. When in flower, buds take 2-3 weeks longer to hit their stride and will never hit their full potential. You wont get massive buds if your plant has been in contact with to much Chlorine and Chloramine. Chlorine, is only a micronutrient and your plant requires it in only very small quantities. If using tap water, you'll hear commonly that you need to bubble off your water for the chlorine to evaporate because it can kill the good bacteria in the water. This problem is only the tip of the iceberg. Chloramine is said to do the same thing but it cannot be bubbled off, and both (especially Chloramine) causes a wide range of other problems. Now the real kicker is what is actually going on inside the plant. Chloramine and Chlorine were studied in an article titled "Redox agents regulate ion channel activity in vacuoles from higher plant cells," the author tells us that Chloramine irreversibly damages flowering plants vacuoles resulting in the inability for the exposed channel to transport ions. A good quote from the articles abstract "The regulation of channel activation by glutathione may correlate ion transport with other crucial mechanisms that in plants control turgor regulation, response to oxidative stresses, detoxification and resistance to heavy metals." Further reading will tell you that Chloramine is directly responsible for a wide range of internal problems. I'm no chemist or horticultural, but this clearly tells me that flowering plants are significantly inhibited from reaching their potential when exposed to Chloramine. Do yourself a favor and use only the best quality of water for your plant by using a filtration device to remove Chlorine and Chloramine.

As mentioned fill a big container up stick an air pump in there to keep oxygenated and just take from there after a couple of days.. I'd say boil water and cool for the vaporiser so you don't get build up of limescale etc... Good luck.

Some chlorines now need more than 72 hours to evaporate. And most of growers use tap water. I use Ecothrive - Neutralise to sort this issue. Think most aquarium shops will have alternatives.

Using tap water is completely fine to use. The only thing is you want to let it bleed off the chlorine for 24 hours before you use it. I fill 5 gallon water cooler jugs and make a little paper towel hat to cover the top. By the time I’m ready to use it the chlorine is gone. Now the only thing is you may want to check the PPMs of your water before you use it. As some communities have a high TDS content. I’m lucky that my tap water comes out at around 57-61 PPM depending on the season and water levels.