Opinions on her look?

If I had to guess, I'd say the fertilizer is too hot, and there's too much moisture in the soil.

Excessive sodium from fertilizer or irrigation water can interfere with the uptake of K, Ca, and Mg. On top of drifting PH levels. The cohesion-tension theory explains how negative pressure enables water movement from the roots to the leaves of a cannabis plant. As water evaporates from the leaf surfaces through the stomata, tension is created, generating a suction force that pulls water upwards through the xylem vessels. This process relies on the cohesive forces between water molecules, forming a continuous column for efficient water transport. Looking at your pictures, there is little in the way of transpiration happening as no suction force exists to create turgor pressure, water is not leaving through the leaf if it is it's at a greatly reduced rate, You most certainly can overwater in a plastic pot, if the water is not uptaken or evaporated it will stagnate after some time. The question with water is not how much to water, or how often, it's a question of "can my plant use it as fast as I put it in". This is dependent on many factors from within the growing environment, temp, humidity, soil composition, cooling yada, yada yada. Potassium is the nutrient responsible for turgor pressure or a possible lack thereof, if indeed it was nutrient-related alone, but no obvious K deficiency presents itself. K, Ca, and Mg have similar chemical properties, they are taken up similarly, and too much uptake of one nutrient can severely inhibit the uptake of another, this would show as a deficiency, when in fact locked. Uniform -de-greening across the whole plant with no obvious starting points micronutrient, but not the root cause, in general, all micronutrients decrease in availability as pH increases, which is one of the reasons why a slightly below neutral soil pH is ideal. The interveinal chlorosis we see in your pics certainly looks like what one would expect from early Cal-mag-related problems. Magnesium is mobile and can be redeployed, so to speak, if the plant becomes deficient. As a result, magnesium deficiencies show in older leaves first, as the plant shifts its dwindling supplies to new growth. Calcium is an immobile nutrient – once the plant has put it to use in one part of its structure, it can’t be relocated. That’s why we see deficiency in young leaves first – even if old leaves have more than enough, the calcium is fixed and can’t travel to where it’s needed. The plant looks to have a mishmash of things going on as I see signs of multiple conflicting symptoms follow 00110001001001111O advice to see if it helps and make sure your RH is under control. Good luck in your trials.

I do find soil is hard to soak when totally dry so you'd be best with tray under there so she can soak it up otherwise you'll get dry pockets.The leaf texture and the wiltting would suggest poor watering.I'd be giving her at least 2ltr every 2-3days or when the top layer drys.I'd make sure its nice and warm,at least 24 as it can get cold at this time of year.Iv got my HID lamp out for heat.

substrate is dry AF - must be overwatering, lol. id wager you have poor watering habits. 1) water entire volume. if soilless, 10% or more runoff - waste water. in soil, just make sure it is fully saturated. Fully saturating is not overwatering. it is watering correctly. 2) wait for top layers to dry - this depends on water capacity of the substrate - and repeat. simple as that. any deviation from those 2 steps is objectively wrong. id fix that before messing with your nutrient formula. bad watering habits lead to all sorts of problems that are otherwise 100% avoided.

looking a bit wilty, and maybe could use some Mg but this might be a cause of the watering issues. Underwatering = Extra Limp Leaves + Limp Stems Overwatering = Limp Leaves + Stiff Stems "leaf stem aka Petiole" Will need to check your PH like asnoriu said, and only water when it is needed, Might need more perlite into the mix next run to prevent it from getting to compact and to facilitate a better water/dry cycles. Some times my soil will be so waterlogged it can go a week or more with out needing more. and that's to long Ideally the max I want is every 4 days. After transplant I notice it takes about a week to get fully established in the pot and it will retain a lot of its water till that happens.

Looks like overwatering to me.

By all look and behavior , i would say , lockout from wrong ph in and now roots dont uptake, plant is overwatered and roots struggle for oxygen. If would be no palinessin colour , would say cold temps or/and overwatering ...