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Starting in coco, any tips?
OG_Maestrostarted grow question 3 months ago
Any tips appreciated! 1,2x1,2m, 400 Watt LED, 4x7 Liter airpots with canna coco and canna coco fertilizer, DTW automated watering from 45 Liter reservoir. Hoping to get away with mixing new reservoir ever 7 days.
How often a day, at what time and how much would you water?
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00110001001001111Oanswered grow question 3 months ago
cocoforcannabis.com - read any and all guides / articles
It's just a soilless medium. There's nothing special about it. Get 10% runoff and give a full, balanced diet.
45 L will last longer than 7 days when the plants are small. Might be 3-4 days between irrigations and only about 1 gallon per cycle for all 4. Might want to half-fill it for first week after transplants. If fertigating 1/day should last at least 7 days.
if you want to do multiple fertigations per day, make sure at least 1/3rd of the weight is lost between each cycle. The plant size and poat size have to jive in order to do this without causing rootzone issues. I'd still do a normal wet-dry cycle before that point so the root mass is well-developed when you get to that point. Wait for top layer to start to change color until you approach 1fertigation/day. Should be able to do 2x fertigation/day at that point.
preferably, at start of light cycle and then somepoint at which it loses at least 1/3rd of it's saturated weight. Depending on how long that takes i would add a '3rd' until there's at least a few hours before lights out. Very little drinking occurs at night.
how much? you give what it takes to get 10% runoff. you can learn predictable numbers in retrospect.
Automated systems tend to waste a little more water than hand-watering. you'll always have to wait for the 'slowest' pot to give you at least 10% DTW. The plants will not all drink at the same rate. Even clones might have some variance to do all sorts of reasons that occur during its life.
base and multiple fertigations on wettest / slowest pot to avoid root zone issues.
vege
PPM calculated from labels, not some shit-ass TDS probe. Also, excludes anything tap water adds.
N 120-130
P 40-60
K 180+
Ca 100+
Mg 75ish
S 100+
tap water may add some Ca or other stuff, but shouldn't require much of an adjustment. ~6.0 pH is wise as it gives you room for error.
In flower drop N to 80-100 and keep eye out for darkness creeping in - drop further if so.
this is a low overall concentration. it is a good ballpark to start in. Every garden's local variables will impact what concentration you need, but the ratios of this formula are rock solid. Any adjustments needed will be easy to diagnose and require minimal changes to dose.
LetsGrowSomeanswered grow question 3 months ago
Tip- Make sure you buffer your coco first. Look it up. Coco likes to leach calcium and magnesium. So buffer it in cal mag solution first. Thers some decent videos on how to properly buffer coco.
Best of luck! Happy Growing!
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Ultravioletanswered grow question 3 months ago
Nutrient can only uptake where there is water present. You have airpots, and coco, given you have buffered the coco, if you have perlite too you will have a very airy medium with medium to low water retention, the coco will give.you a higher CEC.
Watering will very much depend on the environment you set up, with airy medium and perlite if you maintain 45-50%rh you will need.to water everyday to 10% run off, most likely fert every 2nd watering based on your cec and ec reading.
Slightly dry to promote evaporation and gas exchange.
Slightly warm to promote photosynthesis and leaf temp.
Setup correctly it matters not how much you water because you know in 24 hours that the water within the medium will be low regardless of its holding capacity.
Long as water is leaving the plant efficiently, vpd of the soil is working with vpd of the air.
Water is for cooling,
Water is the universal solvent used to transport everything within the plant. Faster you transport water within the plant, faster nutrients get to where they need to be.
Don't over complicated watering, once you understand what it is your doing and why, and how it effects the grow, how are the nozzles, they setup in a serial manner or parallel? Will one pot get more water than another? Tap water or any water with salt minerals will quickly clog thin tube and cheap nozzles.
I'd drop fancy watering setup just going to cause more problems than it solves imo. Love the idea tho. Nothing like jumping in the deep end though, just don't be surprised if things turn yellow as pH drifts.
Good luck pal.
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Seedleranswered grow question 3 months ago
Well, this question can't be answered correctly. because we don't know your environment. VPD plays a huge role in how much to water.
My tip, because im trying coco drip a lot lately, hand feed in the beginning, just like bottlecap amount of water in the morning and if thats dried up in the evening, you give another bottlecap.
until you have to feed like 100-200ml.
Then you can use the drip, plants love multiple but small feedings a day, just enough so all the roots the plant currently has, can absorb water and nutrients but not getting drowned(coco can hold same amount of water than it can hold air)
You definetly will need Calmag because the coco aborbs it.
If you have a bubbler, like in hydroponics for the water reservoir you can easily store the water with nutrients in it as long as you want.
And if you are at the point, where you can wet the whole pot, then you need about 30% of run off, if you grow with syntethic nutrients, so the salts not accumilate in the coco and burn the roots once it gets dry.
Hope this could somehow help you, good luck, if there is anything else you can dm me (:
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