Droopy plants

Temp?

salt buildup, lights, watering. flush for coco medium and check soil conditions, fix if needed. Get a good PAR meter.

hps and LED? Do you have any idea of the amount of DLI you are providing? If not look into it... you may just be exhausting your plants with light. drastically higher than 35-40 DLI with ambient co2 does virtually nothing but decrease pigment density in leaves to mitigate the excess light. some people beleive they can give more, but the plant is merely adapting to it, because the limiting factor is CO2 not light. Can't circumvent a lack of carbon to build shit in the plant.

I bet your watering habits or an extremely high VPD is the cause here, though. It's tough to assess the leaves when they look yellow under your light, but they don't seem to show symptoms beyond the extreme droop. high vpd and intense light can cause this look. Not getting 10% runoff and various parts of fertilizer building up wildly would more likely cause a plethora of visible symptoms. a pH of 3 should be locking out basically everything, lol, and should also have a smorgasborg of symptoms. Either way here's the why and a rundown on proper watering habits for soiless.... Watering is the simplest thing you do and you should not deviate much from the basics too much... Soilless watering-- 1) Fertigate every irrigation with 10% runoff waste water. This maintains a consistent nutrient concentration over time in the substrate. It will not build up, even if it is slightly higher than your actual fertilization formula. 2) Wait for appropriate dryback. Since coco is a low-capacity substrate, you only wait for the top to start to change color and then it's definitely safe to re-fertigate at that point. Stick to a well-pronounced wet-dry cycle in early vege -- no wilting, obviously. If you want to increase frequency of fertigation later on after the root mass is well-established, you can realize some gains from that, too. With coco, as long as you have a 33% loss of water weight, it's safe to fertigate again. This doesn't benefit you much if you don't grow robust root system early on with a more pronounced wet-dry cycle. When the plant is "feasting vs famine," there's less need to develop thick mass of roots when it is sufficiently provided with fewer... The 10% runoff is essential. This makes any problem you see 100% caused by your choice of fertilizer ration and concentration that you provide. This eliminates a bunch of potential causes when you see symptomsm and makes diagnosing and adjusting more accurate and easier. no dry pockets, no half-ass watering, like spritzing the top etc... these are self-inflicted self-fellating behaviours. With 60/40 coco+perlite, you cannot overwater unless you do something absolutely retarded liek run gallons upon gallons upon gallons through the substrate until you drown the fuck out of your roots. Simply don't do that. LOL. Underwatering is impossible if you get 10% runoff. these 2 words should not be in your vocabulary with soilless because it is impossible to do unless you intentionally do it, lol. fyi - 2:1 coco to perlite is enough drainage amendments. In a higher water capacity substrate, like sphagnum peat moss, you want 1:1 with perlite or similar. I prefer vermiculite because it adds some silica and recommended by dr bruce bugbee based on emperical evidence as opposed to bro-science of people that last took a low-level science class when they were 14 years old. So, when you see symptoms, you diagnose and adjust... mix and repeat.. Within a cycle or two, if you are systmatic about it, you should be able to grow supremely healthy plants from seed to harvest without a thought. Keep notes... Keep track of timing. Fertilization is about the entire grow cycle and not what you did last night or even last week... it's a culmination of everything you've done from the beginning. Flushing is for extreme issues. you should be able to avoid the need 99.99% of the time. diagnose sooner, adjust sooner, and the 10% runoff will take care of it. That's part of its function, too. If this is a deficiency, flushing just made it worse. Don't do things unless confident it is the solution, or you'll more likely make things worse. So runoff pH is wildly off, and that needs to be fixed whether it is causing this or not. Better nutes come ph-balanced and buffered to resist drift. A better ratio, if necessary, helps avoid drift too, because the plant uses something called 'active transport' to grab specific nutrient molecules, like 60% of p or k that enters the plant. This can ccause a shift in pH, because unlike 'mass flow' entering the roots through basic diffusion, it distorts the original ratio of dissolved nutes you applied -- again, the 10% runoff each time resets this phenomenom. 10% runoff is supremely important. use an app or website tool to hit these targets given your fertilizer products. Ensure to ph-balance to about 6 after you dissolve everything. element and ppm as calculated from gauranteed analysis labels and not some shity, inaccurate TDS pen. N 120-130 (90-100 mid to late flower when vege growth stops for good) P 40-60 K 180ish Ca 100+ Mg 75ish S 100+ There may be some variability, but it's minimal. Your local tap water may contribute some Ca etc... So, some minor adjustments will be needed. The ratio is solid, and the primary adjustment will be matching overall concentration to the limitations of your environment (DLI, temp, RH, VPD etc) The idea that these plants are picky between strains is more a product of poor fertilization choices. The reality is that some are merely tolerant to bad formulas, but the average person would rather blame the plant than accept responsibility for their own actions, lol. This is not "my" formula. It is one that is backed by generational knowledge. There's a reason multiple brands have a "hydro/soilless" setup of nute products that all come out to similar ratios and concentration of nutrition. It works and it works well on 99% of plants. ** this is for soilless only, not soil with unknown amounts of nutrition included.

Cutting and pasting AI google answers is not offering advice! If your run off pH is 3, that is the issue. No diary + limited info = impossible to answer in a meaningful way. Without knowing exactly what you may or may not be doing, answers are just going to be guesses. Always post pictures taken in normal light, pictures under grow lights are pretty well useless.

PH really 6? If it is anywhere in the 5's then aluminum Al3+ bonds will start to weaken drastically, binding aggressively with Mg and K, just obliterating supply leading to a host of problems that can vary dramatically depending on the supply of the existing ratio of Ca,Mg,K in soil and plant. Without sufficient turgor pressure within plant cells, plants will wilt. Turgor pressure helps keep a plant standing upright with its leaves outstretched or tipped up to absorb as much light as possible. Potassium plays a crucial role in maintaining turgor pressure in cannabis plants, which is the water pressure that keeps cells firm and upright, and is essential for overall plant health and growth. In cannabis cultivation, transpiration(daytime), the plant's water loss through stomata, is crucial for nutrient uptake and maintaining turgor pressure, which keeps the plant upright and its leaves firm. Understanding and managing transpiration, along with factors like Vapor Pressure Deficit (VPD), is vital for healthy growth and high yields. Osmotic stress, which is a disturbance in water balance, can significantly impact turgor pressure, the internal pressure exerted by a cell against its cell wall, leading to changes in cell volume, shape, and function. Osmotic stress occurs when the concentration of solutes (like sugars and salts) outside a cell differs from the concentration inside, causing water to move across the cell membrane to equalize the concentrations. Osmotic stress is a physiological dysfunction triggered by a sudden change in the solute concentration in the environment surrounding a cell, causing a rapid movement of water across the cell membrane. High EC. In the context of the water cycle and plant physiology, transpiration, driven by the evaporation of water from leaves, creates a negative pressure that "pulls" water upwards through the plant, and water cohesion (water molecules sticking together) ensures this continuous flow. Of note: Transpiration: This is the process where water evaporates from the leaves of plants, primarily through tiny pores called stomata. Cohesion-Tension Theory :This theory explains how transpiration drives the movement of water through plants. Tension: As water evaporates from the leaves, it creates a negative pressure or "tension" within the plant's vascular tissue, specifically the xylem. Cohesion: Water molecules are attracted to each other (cohesion), forming a continuous column of water from the roots to the leaves. Pulling Water Upwards: The tension created by transpiration "pulls" the water column upwards, drawing water from the soil into the roots and then through the xylem to the leaves. Water Cycle Connection: Transpiration is an important part of the water cycle, as it contributes to the movement of water from the land to the atmosphere. Evapotranspiration: The combined processes of evaporation from the soil and transpiration from plants are known as evapotranspiration. For fast-acting lime that also provides potassium, look for products like Pennington Fast Acting Lime, which uses Advanced Soil Technology (AST) to quickly raise soil pH and improve nutrient availability, or consider Solu-cal MAG Plus Bio lime delivers micro fine enhanced Calcium plus an extra boost of magnesium.