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Anyone can guide me why some plant looks a bit pal...

XaXaXa
XaXaXastarted grow question 2 days ago
Anyone can guide me why some plant looks a bit pale? Ph 6.2 as reccomended by Plagron, feeding 1,9EC, 26c and 70%RH, light at 500PPFD 90cm from plant, right now around week 6-7 of veg - want to flip in 3 days nutrients lockout ? should I flush them ?
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Leaves. Color - Pale
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BudMunchies
BudMunchiesanswered grow question 2 days ago
As others have mentioned, this is likely a humidity issue. At 70% RH, the plants may not be transpiring efficiently, which can lead to slower nutrient uptake and cause a slightly pale appearance. This will become an even bigger factor after flipping to flower, so try to bring it down to around 60% now and even lower (45-50%) once flowers start forming to prevent mold and other issues. Another thing to consider is light intensity. At 500 PPFD from 90cm, you might actually be pushing a bit too much for this stage, especially if you’re seeing leaf edges curling up while the rest of the leaf is slightly drooping. This suggests a mild light stress reaction. Try raising the light slightly or dimming it a bit and see if that helps. That said, the overall color doesn’t look too concerning. Some of the lower growth appears to have richer nitrogen levels, which is normal. As long as you’re seeing steady growth and no major deficiencies, I wouldn’t recommend flushing just yet. Instead, fine-tune your humidity and light, and your plants should adjust well going into flower!
00110001001001111O
00110001001001111Oanswered grow question 2 days ago
poor ratio of nutes? just because tehy have a schedule doesn't mean it works well for a variety of strains. A better formula works nearly flawlessly on 99.9% of plants. I regularly grow 6-7 strains off 1 reservoir of nutes without issue. Better formulas work out of the box, less than ideal formulas instructed require more observation and adjustment to avoid current issues in the future. don't blame the plants. blame the behaviour. plants only get what you give. The other indication of a slightly off formula is the fact you have 3-5 fingered leaves. This is a sign of less than ideal health over time. if it happens on new nodes immediately following training or topping, that's fine, but should scale back up to 7-9 fingers, minimum.. some plants will go to 11-13+ when treated well. are these autoflower? 500ppfd without hours of operation is missing have of the equation to make that useful information. Over 18h it's plenty of DLI. Over 12 hours, you probably want to be 800 or higher. 750 over 12 h would be equivalent to 500 over 18 h.. DLI is what matters as far as yield and rate of growth, not hours or ppfd individually. Node spacing is the guide here... too lanky, add more light. Too tight, reduce light. Simple as that. Take notes when you find the goldielocks zone as it will remain fairly consistent from grow to grow. Changes in climate or atmospheric co2 will cuase what "max DLI" is to ebb/flow a bit. Flushing is a stressful thing and i don't think these symptoms call for anyhthign extreme. would need a lot more infor to make suggested formual changes.. is this soil? soilless? if soil, it creates a bunch of unknowns to account for and more trial and error to refine fertilization formula. 70% is definitely too high. You get into pathogen risk above 65%. Refer to a VPD table to suggested temp/RH combinations relative to stage of life. There are several reference tables you can image search for.
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ATLien415
ATLien415answered grow question 2 days ago
Agree with Spike. Also just a good practice to not run over 60% RH if you can avoid it, as a control against pests/pathogens.
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Spike_KCanG
Spike_KCanGanswered grow question 2 days ago
Hi bud. 70%rh at 26C might be something to look at. I would try to keep rh at 60% max when running temps above 25C. Hope this helps, even a little.
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