which soil to buy

Wow! I think this is a pretty simple question, I don’t know why so much BS over some damn dirt. Go get some Happy Frog or Ocean Forest and call it a day. Happy gardening

Double zero talking out his backside again.No change there then.

Chirality is irrelevant, lol. Ri- or Si configurations (enantiomeres) are not restricted to orgnic or inorganic molecules. It's simply means there's only 1 line of symmetry and you can have mirror-configurations, hence the righteous and sinister labels (from roman, translates as left or right handed) If it is an issue with a particular molecule, it is completely random whether it was a 'so-called' snythetic or organic molecule -- which these terms are heinously misused by marketing/advertising mopes. Just as likely chirality is a problem for the non-chelated molecules. Chelated molecules are skipping the need for microbes. The same broken-down bits enter the plant. The idea that orgnic sources is some how superior is a figment of people's imagination.

Over 90% of the food on the planet is grown with mineral nutrients like yours in soil.Its stable and certainly has less issues than organic and it grows bigger plants but quality and quantity rarely go hand in hand so I prefer organic myself.

Most "organics" is a marketing gimmick to fleece people of their money. I see people on here waaay more with issues using Advanced Nutrients and Biobizz than GH/TA. It must be doing something right.... Also, planting directly in the earth isn't always as great and simple as it sounds. In many areas, once you get past the initial few inches of topsoil the ground becomes much denser with larger amounts of clay and rock. This can create drainage issues that can potentially drown your plant during heavy rains. If you do plan on planting directly in the ground dig out a much larger hole than you might think you need and replace that soil with better dirt. Direct in ground planting does help keep from having to water as much during drought type conditions though.

I'd just do it in the ground / earth if possible. You can use soilless mediums outside but it will dry out a bit to fast and will need to water it multiple times a day uness you mix in some water holding crystals but I don't like them. also if you had a automatic watering system problem solved. I make my own soil using coir, compost, worm castings and amendments, it does me well. You can also buy any pre made bagged soil and it will work out ok as well. Pay sttention if it is fortified with slow release and start feeding after the 3-4th week.

inert substrate would be better with a soilless/hydro nutrient product line. Don't mix methods. There is no synergy to be found from it and is just an ego stroke. stick to normal soil nutrients and soil-based recommendation for ratios. There's no one way to do it with soil. It totally depends on what comes in the soil you buy and how quickly various elements of the nutrition are exhausted. You slowly supplement that stuff over time. It takes trial and error and consistent products in order to pre-empt any problems you have from one cycle to the next. Definitely let the soil's amended nutrients take care of things early, then slowly add fertilizer based on what you see. You may not need the full compliment of nutrients to start... but eventually you'll be supplying most of it by the end of the grow cycle unless you have some sort of super/living soil thing going on. that's a whole nother bucket of trial and error. If you stick to the same products and are systematic about how you go about refining your fertilization methods, you'll get there faster.

First off, there is going to be a ton of bro-science on this topic but in general, from a chemistry and biology perspective, never mix chelated salts with a living soil web. You can dig into the organic chemistry for why with researching such topics as chirality. In summary, a lot of inorganic salts are made to be off-handed with respect to orientation of our natural biology/chemistry/physics, which is nice because it forces the plants to grab it but at the same time essentially makes it incompatible with microbial life and such. You can assume that an off-handed chelated salt will kill your microbial life every time. There is nothing more ironic than watching someone going off YouTube advice with some top-shelf living soil, microbial boosters, organic ingredients, and a non-organic off-handed chelated salt to make it all worthless. For your nutrients they are chelated. What is the chirality (right or left handed molecules) of each individual component on the guaranteed analysis spec sheet? Are there folks online that use your nutrients with 'soil'? Yes. Does that mean it is offhanded? No. Will they tell you if anything is offhanded? Likely no, that will reveal their sourcing and 99% of the sauce for these companies is their source unless its a white label bag of dry salts. Technically they can be used in soil, just like you technically could take your sourdough starter and irradiate it...technically you could. I just wouldn't worry about microbial life if you are already feeding the plant food that makes microbial life redundant. If you don't want to worry about questions like that, I'd go with a nice inert medium mixture like coco perlite (I prefer either 50:50 or 70coco:30). Always buy prewashed coco from your trusted source. Same with the perlite. Washing coco takes forever and requires buffered water. Perlite dust is bad for lungs.

Don't do coco outside as it drys toom fast.The biobizz light mix is great to start seedlings on.Its good to start your seedlings with.The canna bio pro is best for outdoor vegging plants with enough food for several weeks after that you can start giving them the tripart.You could really do with a root booster or seaweed/kelp which will help no end with the health,strength of the plants,especially outdoors.They'll be much stronger.All root and veg boosters have seaweed in and even some flkower boosters like canna boost.If you've got the money houyse and gardens amino treatment will really help with the health of the plant even more, and it has seaweed in it but its not cheap.It will help the plant fight off things like mildew which can be a massive issue outdoors.I used gh tri part many moons ago.I'd get something else next time as it was taken over by monsanto,lots of hydro stores took it offf their shelves due to monsantos actions and how they're destroying the planet.The gh is ok but organic is better the best being advanced nutrients iguana juice or biobizz is a cheap option.Growing with organics really improves smell and taste over mineral salt based food,and its better for you.

I guess you mean Outdoor in its own pot instead of just into the ground... I would go for some medium pre fertilized soil so you don't depend on the Nutes. Normal Growing Soil also.

COCO PERLITE MIX, I SUGGEST AC INFINITY'S COCO IT IS ALREADY BUFFERED

GH tripart can be used indoor or outdoors in a variety of applications-soil/coco/hydro. It's a very versatile and dependable fert line. I've used it for over two decades. The simplest method would probably be to use a light mix and plan on supplying all the nutrients yourself-less guess work. But you certainly could use it with a charged soil, you just gotta supplement when it begins to deplete. My last big outdoor grow I just made up a batch of dirt with a little top soil, perlite and bagged compost. That basically got me through veg and I supplemented with my ferts during flower.

1 piece of advice is stay away from fox farm happy frog it has a ton of humic acid in it and will make your plants ph to low and cause problems I only say this because fox farm happy frog is at almost every store with dirt and it’s normally the cheapest option If your growing indoor and have nutrients I’d suggest promix HP Outdoors I’m not sure