So I uploaded a picture of my plants already, aski...

Every 90-degree bend in ducting greatly increases the force required to push air around corners from the resulting turbulence of hitting sharp corners; this goes right to 2x force for every 180-degree bend. Very quickly you can x3,x4 without even realizing, try to keep your ducting as bend free or even better limit the bends to 45 degrees for optimal airflow, won't matter now but once your plants get a bit bigger 100% will. Those 4-5" lips at top of pots will create a buffer zone of high rh, just make sure there is at least some form of air hitting the pots from top down as the high lips will prevent most of natural airflow reaching into those 4-5" , again not so much a problem but once canopy develops and less light makes it there. I'd lower your humidity at least until your plant's root zones fill those big pots. Transpiration can only lift water from the soil where there are roots. When you run 65% daytime, you are almost eliminating atmospheric evaporation from parts of the soil with no roots and placing all the responsibility on transpiration. Respiration at night does not pull any water from the soil, so at 65 %+ rh, evaporation will not occur from the medium. One of your pics shows clear signs of overheating with the curled up leaf, a general symptom of lacking water, more heating occurs than cooling, the plant sacrifices edges first, being the least important and the first part to have waterworks turned off. You need to keep the soil saturated, but doing so with pots so much larger than the current root zones, you need to ensure water will not stagnate in parts of pots that roots can't reach yet or you will come into more problems as weeks go on. The medium is saturated, but water sits mostly out of reach at the bottom of pots out of reach initially. Roots will grow where they find water regularly, but light in the early days can dry out the top few inches pretty fast. Crank temps up closer to 28, that natural 65% will jump down to 50-55%, promote a little evaporation to assist with evapotranspiration of the medium until the plant is big enough to utilize the full pot and drink from a pot fully saturated with a rootzone that fills the pot. In order for you to fully saturate pots that size with water, you need to accelerate the water cycle by cranking up the environmental conditions to limit the wet-dry cycle. Overwatering is only a problem if water stays in the medium too long. Nice steady breeze during day, always a gentle airflow at night is critical too. Best of luck, love the ninja setup! Look forward to seeing the bloom! Keep it up.

You need to clear out your preconceptions about watering. Start over. You irrigate as needed. Tehre's not set schedule, though based on your substrate and temp/rh, size of plant vs pot size etc, it will eventually settle into a consistent schedule once fully grown. If you use the same products and grow the same sized plants etc, you can expect that sort of consistency in future grows too. Change variables, and the timing or ramp up might change also. Don't over think watering. Don't make it some top-down perception. Reality dictates when and how much and nothing else. 1) Fully saturate. In soilless context, 10% runoff or more avoids buildup. In soil, runoff justs wastes amended nutrients. So, minimize it as best you can unless trying to fix a root zone issue, of course. You will quickly learn how much water is needed, retroactively. 2) Wait for appropriate dryback and repeat. This ensures a proper drying pattern and trains roots to grow deeply as opposed to superficially. The wet-dry cycle, especially at the top, helps reduce risks of growing weird shit in your root zone. In a heavy soil, you want to wait for 1" deep to dry before re-irrigating. It takes as long as it takes. Again, reality dictates, not some top-down conceived need to water. In something like coco that holds a lot less water, it needs an irrigation when the top starts to change color.. a supeficial drying is usually good enough. Above all, never let it wilt. That is waiting too long. I think the weight loss over time is the easiest trigger to re-irrigate. You may need the above suggestion to callibrate how light it should feel before irrigating. If you consistently water at the same weight loss/light feeling, it will require a very similar amount of water each time. You learn the volume to provide in hindsight. Again, if you use the same medium, you can expect the same volume needed in future grows. You buy something new or add perlite to it, you will learn the new volume required. You give what it takes. You wait as long as it takes. There are observable triggers that dictate watering schedule. Deviating because you are leaving for the weekend or some one-off need is less of a concern than consistently bad watering habits over time. The long-term effect is the concern. Fully saturating should never cause droop. If it does, the substrate is poorly constituted and needs more perlite or similar so the roots are not deprived of o2 so easily. In a soilless context you can push fertigation more frequently, but stick to the above in vege phase, or if you have an extended vege, later on etc. The more pronounced wet-dry cycle promotes developing more roots which can be better utilized by more frequent fertigation when it matters most - flower phase.

Over watering when you water if you water enough so about 20% of the water runs out the bottom of the pot and the. You wait until the soil is completely dry to water again it could take 10 to 14 days some times just be patient the pot will be super light and the top soil as dry as it was when it came in the bag