Überwässert? Lichtstress?

They look healthy so far, but they are showing typical signs of too much moisture in the substrate. When watering, make sure the substrate has dried out slightly beforehand and that you have 10-20% of the pot volume as drainage. My motto is always "As much as necessary, as little as possible.

I'd wager your watering habits are 100% of the problem. if you are hand watering, stop with the bottom watering. This clearly isn't providing enough water and the incomplete watering leads to nutrient buildup anwhere the moisture ebbs and flows. Each time it dries, it'll deposit more minerals, which will then go back into solution the next time that volume of medium gets moist again... repeatedly adding some portion that was given before - buildup over time. 1) fully saturate watering top-down. If soilless, get 10% runoff, otherwise some minimal runoff to ensure you fully saturated the medium. 2) wait for appropriate dryback.. this depends on how the medium is contstitued. The more water it holds the deeper you want to feel dry at the top before re-irrigating. 2:1 coco:perlite is fine to re-irrigate when the top starts to change color, where as a heavy soil you want to wait for 1" deep to dry before repeating. Loss of weight is a better trigger. IF you allow the same loss of weight to trigger an irrigation, it will require the same volume of water to get the job done. review - you don't chose the volume or frequency. You give 'enough' to accomplish the task and you react to a physical observation to trigger the 'next' irrigation. This is not an inductive thought process. Watering bottom-up is just not necessary or helpful. If it's an autopot system, you can learn to use them without issues, but you'll probably have to give it a top-down irrigation with runoff at some point to avoid buildup. Trial and error to avoid what would normally be completely avoidable problems otherwise. not a fan of bottom-irrigation, but you 'can' make it work just as well as anything else, but seems like an unnecessary learning curve to me. It's one thing if it's your automated watering system, it's another if you do it by hand... no reason to bottom-irrigate by hand.

The plant Is perfect Just leaves It 2/3 days without water

I agree with you, they look too moist. But you have quite a bit of space in the pot... you could carefully take the plant out, drill more holes in the bottom and lower side parts, put clay pebbles in the bottom, and put the plant back on top. Have you ever grown in fabric pots? It works much better because way more air gets to the roots.

Water is a problem, either not going in or doesn't want to come out. Drooping is indicator there is not much in the way of turgor pressure built up within the plant. Turgor pressure in plant cells, is directly built up as a result of osmosis. Potassium (K+) is crucial for regulating turgor pressure in guard cells, which in turn controls the opening and closing of stomata, the pores on plant leaves that allow for gas exchange and transpiration. Transpiration and photosynthesis are closely linked processes in plants, with transpiration playing a crucial role in supplying water for photosynthesis. Photosynthesis is fundamentally reliant on cellular respiration. Cellular respiration in plants is reliant on root respiration, though the relationship is indirect. Root respiration, which is the process of oxygen uptake and glucose consumption by plant roots for energy production (ATP), is essential for various root functions, including water and nutrient uptake. These functions, in turn, support the overall plant's cellular respiration process. Without efficient root respiration, the plant's ability to absorb water and nutrients is compromised, negatively impacting the plant's overall health and its ability to carry out cellular respiration effectively. Photosynthesis by day. Dictated by optimal vpd. Cellular respiration by night. Little to no transpiration occurs at night. Keeping the high RH overnight will restrict evaporation, reduce respiration, without a negative pressure to assist the soil in respiration, oxygen is going to become a scarsce commodity in a ceramic or plastic pot, as flower progresses microorganisms will scavenge more.and more of the crucial oxygen and as soon as it does anerobic fermentation will take over from aerobic. Once thay starts ph will begin to skew, plant will start to show signs on leaf too. First impression from visual is check your ph, lume green all over, no obvious start point can be a alkaline ph skew. But I'd also like to know what week of flower you are in. She just looks a little hungry. Whether that's a uptake problem from ph skew or just a good old nute deficiency but normally if it's nutrient alone the symptoms will appear mobile or immobile. She looks super healthy and well grown, tips are in great shape, just her waterworks right now

Hi 🙋‍♂️ Unfortunately, it's definitely overwatered. Just let it dry a bit for a few days, then it'll be fine again 👊

Hey Growmie, to be honest, it looks like overwatering to me, possibly combined with a bit of light stress. The leaves are drooping quite a bit and curling slightly downwards—typical signs that the roots are too wet. A few tips: ✅ Let the soil dry out really well before you water again. Especially in plastic pots and with Floragard, water can build up quickly. ✅ Feel free to lift the pot; by the weight, you can tell if it really needs water. ✅ If the light is very close, hang it a bit higher until it recovers. Too much light on stressed plants often makes it worse. But it doesn't look lost—just give it a little time and less water, and it will bounce back. Good luck! 🤞🍀♥️