PPFD is a measurment of umol/s PAR across an area. it is not a single point measurement. So, i'm not 100% what you are trying to say when you give the 1000 ppfd figure. Is this a measurement in the center directlt below the light? PPFD will be smaller than this value, so the DLI was miscalculated. Again, ppfd is not a single point measurement.
you should be at 40 DLI or less with ambient co2... there are more than 1 factor that influences how much light a plant can handle each day, but co2 concentration in air is a big one. A less controlled climate will cause a lower target dli to avoid damage or stunting.
To get ppfd you need several single-point measurements then average them out -- all same distance from light equidistant apart across canopy.. the more readings the more accurate your average (the estimated ppfd) will be.
You can also take total umol/s PAR off light spec sheet and divide by m^2 of garden. This will be a slightly exaggerated PPFD, but if you shoot for ~40 DLI, it'll be a very good starting point.
no matter what you do, you will need to observe how the plant grows and adjust. These numbers are only a good starting point. growth too tight? reduce light. Growth too lanky? increase light. Easy-peasy. Take notes.. You may find seasonal differences as to what a plant can handle. Temp, RH and co2 all impact how much per day.
hours is a partial picture.. don't think hours = more or better yield. DLI is what matters. 40dli over 12h or 18h is going to have the same result. So, stick to a light cycle that includes a proper dark cycle. the plant is healthier with a proper dark cycle. The only reason you want a 20h or 24h cycle is if you use a really shitty light taht can't provide enough DLI otherwise. That context *might* outweigh the negative of no dark cycle.