PH for organic coco grow?

Marshmellow420
Marshmellow420started grow question 8mo ago
Hey guys, I am planning to do an organic grow on coco. The coco isn’t fertilzed. As nutrient I will use Bio tabs and I will watering with RO water. I know Biotabs say it isn’t necessary to adapt the PH. But I got time and a new Blue lab. What PH would you guys recommend? 6.2?
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Nocone_Purple
Nocone_Purpleanswered grow question 8mo ago
For organic coco with BioTabs, you can keep your pH around 6.2–6.5. Since BioTabs creates a living soil environment in the coco, the microbes help buffer pH naturally so you don’t need to be super precise like in regular coco grows. Just avoid going below 6.0, and you’ll be fine.
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00110001001001111O
00110001001001111Oanswered grow question 8mo ago
*If coco needs extra Ca or Mg, it's because it's a shittily processed bag of coco. It will only leach off Ca or Mg if it is poorly buffered by some manufacturer with their head up their ass. Coco coir must be buffered properly, or it will leach Ca and release god knows what, including Na+, potentially. Some brands are more consistent than others. Get a bad batch, and you will have a bunch of sickly and fucked up plants that may or may not survive. coco coir isn't magic. It's just an inert medium. Plants in 'good' coco will require the same levels of nutrients as it would in any other inert medium - this is a fact. The types of fertilizers you employ may require slightly different operating procedures. If the instructions for biotabs mention runoff, i'd strongly recommend following whatever they say about it. If you treat it like a soilless medium, then you need 10% runoff religiously. If you treat it like soil, then you treat it like soil and minimize runoff -- full saturation is still the best practice, of course. It's not so much about the coco as it is the fertilizer products that you are using. I'm not 100% sure on the biotabs... so just follow instructions. You can either adjust size of biotab you slap down or on some 'regular' schedule get some extra runoff if you consistently see a toxicity creeping in over time... a little trial and error and you'll find that happy medium. You got the rate at which it dissolves as you run water over it and the rate of the plant's use ... There's more than one way to make those things jive well together in the long-run. if you find it needs more Ca despite providing plenty of Ca, i'd look for a different brand next time... really bad sign, if so. Also, should be a temporary thing as the coco will get to equilibrium with the solution of fertilizer provided over time... as long as it isn't too shittily made. The longer you have to boost ca or mg, the worse the product is. Buffering is never perfectly aligned with all possible fertilizer formulas, but should be done well enough that a you don't even notice it reaching equilibrium. (equilibrium -- same amount of nutes and ratio of nutes bonding and released from cation exchange sites over time. It does not leach or add anything at that point. Unless you constantly shift your formula around, it will reach equilibrium, eventually. That is the whole point of buffering coco and why it's absolutely necessary to use it as a growing medium, because 'natural' coco makes plants sick as fuck, lol.)
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AestheticGenetix
AestheticGenetixanswered grow question 8mo ago
I recommend using filtered water if you're able to over tap btw. There's nothing wrong with using better water
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AestheticGenetix
AestheticGenetixanswered grow question 8mo ago
6.2- 6.8 or just aim for 6.5. look at the nutrient absortion chart for a better idea of what's being absorbed at what pH and that can help you dial it in even better for different growth stages
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Organoman
Organomananswered grow question 8mo ago
Just use ordinary tap water, there is no need to use RO water and definitely DO NOT use distilled/de-ionized/de-mineralized water. In coco, a pH range between 5-8 and 6-4 should be just fine. Cannabis is a hardy plant and does not need "Pricess Perfect" conditions to thrive............it ain't no dainty fern! In coco, no matter what nutrients you are using, you MUST get run-off EVERY time you irrigate. You will also need to use cal/mag regularly. The use of mycorrhizae is also something I can highly recommend...........it should be an essential ingredient in any grow!
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OGorganicsw
OGorganicswanswered grow question 8mo ago
What you’re asking about is an interesting topic. Many organic growers feel too much pressure regarding pH. Cannabis can grow in environments with pH ranging from 5.5 up to 7.0, which is considered neutral. However, I believe the real issue isn’t your substrate’s pH but rather its organic matter and the micro-life you introduce. My recommendation: Use a 70/30 mix of coco coir and pure worm humus, and add mycorrhizae like Great White Shark. The humus and microbes will create an environment where the plant depends not on the water’s pH but on its microbiota. Just make sure to always use dechlorinated water — either distilled with added CalMag or deionized.
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00110001001001111O
00110001001001111Oanswered grow question 8mo ago
Sounds like the bio tabs are ph-balanced on their own, so i woudln't fiddle with it unless you find a reason to do so. If bio tabs are ph-buffered and balanced, i wouldn't worry about RO. RO is more susceptible to ph-drift, simply due to the lack of solutes, which is also a good thing in other respects. If you see it wildly swinging around, then i'd consider using tap water - see if that fixes the problem. You can measure runoff, but it's never precisely representative of what's resulting around the roots. So, this can be good info / good practice, but only after you form a baseline (famiiar) with what is normal when the plant is growing well and healthy (over a long period of time, and not a snapshot). Then you can discern when the readings from a flawed measurement process is worth reacting to. You can do a soil slurry - again, needs familiarity to be more useful information. how you measure will impact what you see... be consistent when you measure runoff (early runoff will measure differently than later runoff) or how much you use in a slurry and the ph of water added to start etc... Yes, 6.2 is a good goal, but the reading of runoff is not what exists around the roots more times than not. hell.. if your tray is dirty with dried up nutes it'll potentially fuck up the reading too. i know someone using biotabs and seems to be a complete diet on its own. Shouldn't need to do anything else. Seen others with different results, but that was probably user-error. Keep it simple. don't try to do too much. Get things running smoothly, then add more "sophisticated" wrinkles if you want.
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Xipsiomega1
Xipsiomega1answered grow question 8mo ago
I have never use coco, i am growing bio in soil although i have much experience with bio tabs products. I am using them 4 years now. No need to adapt ph, i have never done it. I water with tap water. If you use Starttrex, Tablets, Bactrex and Myccotrex, microorganisms will adapt the ph of the soil. I never had problems with that. The yields are also very good. I repeat that this is my experience in soil. Good luck!
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Ultraviolet
Ultravioletanswered grow question 8mo ago
Organic grows in coco 5.9 and then allows the pH to drift between the upper and lower ends of 5.6-6.4. This is optimal for the microorganisms and will keep hydrogen activating in the medium, critical for organics.
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