2 week old

Spaceghoost
Spaceghooststarted grow question 23d ago
Heyo, i got this little lady struggling for life, she is in coco for about 2 weeks from sprout gave her some nutes at 150-200 ppm at ph 5.9, the rh is 60-70 and temp 23-25 c. Any thoughts on how to save her ?
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John_Kramer
John_Krameranswered grow question 23d ago
it's starving... tap water for coco'd be 200-300 ppm (u add CalMag to this value) then u add 150-200 ppm of veg fert in sum'll be 350-500 ppm and u water it beneath stem and around +1 cm etc u do this every watering, preferably with 20% runoff
00110001001001111O
00110001001001111Oanswered grow question 22d ago
Can either write a book or send you somewher eto read on your own... cocoforcannabis.com - articles and guides, -- not the forums. Forums are a horrible place to gather info unless you can discern magic from fact. proper sized pots, proper watering habits, etc... start there. Your vpd is a skosh too low, but is not the primary problem here. Refer to a VPD table - which also should give suggestions relative to life state of the plant. Seedlings are fine less than 1 kPa VPD, but should increase that as they mature. Also, the temperature referenced on these tables is leaf temp. Expect that to be 4F less or 2c less than atmospheric readings. So, currently 21-23C and your range of RH% would be referenced for VPD (or calculate it, but a reference table is easier) I'd shoot for 1-1.2 kPa VPD in mature vege, but there is a range of suggestions -- this stuff is species specific and not a whole lot of research has fleshed this out for marijuana. What works well for other soft-stemmed flowering plants is a good start, as well as less-confident anecdotal information backs up as well as a human eye can discern (low resolution). VPD is the primary driver of transpiration, which is the primary driver of the rate your plant drinks. The huge pot is probably the biggest part of what's going wrong here.. making your watering habits less than ideal and other difficulties of using a huge pot with a tiny plant. Use appropriately sized pots - even if growing autoflowers. If you stunt a plant from just potting up to a larger size, then you shouldn't be gardening in the first place, bwahaha. You'd have to mash up the rootball like some sort of deranged lunatic to stunt a plant from potting up. this won't 'ruin' anything, but will make it more difficult early on for no reason. i wouldn't restart or throw it out, i'd just do it differently next time without the huge pot/tiny plant context. Eventualyl it'll grow into that pot and it'll be easier to handle at that point. i'm not going to go into all the adjustments youneed to make for a big/pot tiny plant. simply water a smaller cicrcle around it and make sure that moisture goes all the way down or else you train shitty superficial roots. under normal circumstances in an soilles medium: 1) fully saturate with 10% runoff -- always with a well-balanced diet of fertilizer. You provide 100% of everything in a soilless medium. 2) wait for appropriate dryback and repeat -- not too soon, and not so long it wilts. If you trigger an irrigation at same dryback, it'll require the same volume of water. Do not choose the volume of water. You give as much as it takes to accomplish step #1. if you find yourself whimsically choosing things from a top-down narrative, good chance it's the wrong way to do it.
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Ultraviolet
Ultravioletanswered grow question 22d ago
Red line down midrip, oxygen-deprived, oxygen is essential for phosphorus uptake in coco coir because it's crucial for plant root respiration, a vital nutrient for a seedling because it is needed for early root development, energy transfer, and cell division, requirements for good germination and vigorous growth. Phosphorus will leach in runoff in coco coir because it is water-soluble and highly mobile. Roots can only pull where they can reach; water is not moving fast enough. Holding 70%rh 24/7 over time will reduce water movement to almost zero, crippled the respiration of the plant, and prevent reoxygenation of the medium if the moisture goes above point. It's not that she is not growing, she is lacking oxygen/phosphorus at early stages for various reasons, what is optimal for rapid growth does not give two shits about moisture retention of a medium, and the importance of keeping water moving in a timely manner from one medium to another is important. Oxygen moves more slowly in a medium saturated with water because water is a denser medium than air and hinders the diffusion of gas molecules. Diffusion rates are significantly slower in water compared to air, with the diffusion of oxygen in water being about 10*4 times slower than in air. As soon as the soil moisture level goes over a point, it accumulates/holds moisture, and the countdown begins. Oxygen no longer moves. I understand there is coco with perlite, but holding such a high ambient rh day and night without a dry period to perform some ET then oxygen will become deprived very fast. There is oxygen in the perlite, in the coco, but it moves so slowly when oversaturated it's almost like............... a traffic jam, there are roads, there are cars, but nothing is moving! Oxygen is like the white ball on a pool table you need it to oxidize and assist in the breaking of other molecules, ripping atoms apart in a medium, feeding micros, feeding respiration. Keep RH at 50-55%. High RH causes more problems than it solves most of the time, without understanding how it affects water movement as a whole between different atmospheres. She needs P, she needs Oxygen, and water needs to move faster. The faster you move water, the less you need to worry about oversaturation; the slower you gear the plant through transpiration/evaporation, the more accurate you need to be with how long water sits in a medium and how much. Until a plant's root systems are big enough to fill a pot and can be relied upon to perform all the ET on its own, then you can go high RH 24/,7 but until the roots fill the pot, you must incorporate at least some evaporation time for the medium and create a dry cycle; otherwise countdown begins. The roots use pressure to penetrate soil and grow, this pressure comes from turgor pressure, turgor pressure comes from osmosis, osmosis is primarily driven by rate of transpiration, which is dictated by temp and humidity, when you run 75F 70% you are giving the plant a tiny amount of pressure to work with therefore very little pressure to penetrate and dig for nutes in dire times. Can't find that P that leeched down to the bottom of the big ass pot that takes the seedlings' roots 6 weeks to fill. No oxygen, no P, no cellular respiration, no ATP, slow everything else. A lack of phosphorus (P) early in a seedling's life can permanently stunt its growth, leading to a reduced final yield even if P is supplied later. glcuk.
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