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How are you guys Harding plants off? When I take my seedlings from a small light to a large one they get so stressed every time

Ninjabuds
Ninjabudsstarted grow question 4h ago
Do u start seedlings under a small light then transfer to a large light? If so what are you doing to harden your plants off so fast. I see some ppl giving small seedlings 400umols and they are loving it. I almost think it’s the genetics. I didn’t used to have this pro
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Organoman
Organomananswered grow question 38m ago
I blast them with the big light at max power straight from day one and have never had a problem. Small lights are for clones.
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Nocone_Purple
Nocone_Purpleanswered grow question 1h ago
genetics play a big role some babies just handle the light better. I usually start under softer light (around 200–250 µmol) for the first few days, then ramp up slowly to 400+. The key is not shocking them keep temps steady, good airflow, and raise PPFD little by little each day
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m0use
m0useanswered grow question 2h ago
From my understanding Cannabis plants can take a beating of light right from the get go. Like 40DLI range, its a trooper. Switching up the main light, via indoors to outdoors or small light to big light they need a bit of time to adapt as their leaves are optimized for something else, its like stacking on a bunch of weights when exercising, you where doing 100lb now its 350lb gotta work your way up to it. Best way to harden them off is small exposures to the new light, 1-2hrs in rising sun and then shade for the afternoon and back inside for night time temps, not full blast afternoon sun at max intensity "indoor to outdoor" or gradually increasing the intensity of the lights, dim settings from 10-20-30-40 exct "indoors". Eg if your small light is only giving off 300 umol/s/m2 and the big light is hitting 900 umol/s/m2 then dim the big light down to around 350, and then work its way up. go up 50 a day if possible. or 10% dim, maybe do it every other day, play around with it and make notes. note that the closer the light is to the leaves the strong the light will be. eg. seedlings 30" away will be getting far less light intensity then plants 10" away so might need to use a mini table if its mixed in with existing plants. Most lights are optimized for a hang height of 18-25", not to many hot spots and good PPFD maps. Last note the photoperiod should also be similar or match. If seeds are at 12/12 for example and new light is 24/0 its a big shock. lower it down. or boost the old one up. Could also increase the intensity of the small light or move it closer to really get it stronger like the new light.
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ATLien415
ATLien415answered grow question 2h ago
The plant is gonna like what the plant likes. So many folks want to paint with broad brushes when the biggest wildcard in their grow rooms is the fact that they don't seriously attempt to be consistent. The simplest way to look at this is what NOT to do. Stress a seedling? Throw it in the trash. Don't stress a seedling? Get giga-fire exotic vigorous explosion of veg growth, that we all love. Are you settled with every piece of equipment you have? Have you broken them all down to nuts and bolts and cleaned them 10 dozen times by now? If you are able to walk into your rooms, lights off, and break down everything in utter darkness and rebuild it....then have tried making the plant portion specific? Folks popping beans and talking about consistency is like me talking about my sobriety while cooking crack while smoking crack. It is utter nonsense. When you are ready for consistency on the plant side, you attack everything from only ever cloning (nothing else for serious growing) to you cut angles to cytokin deficits you create with solution to growing that same girl out a dozen ways all the way to even manually validating that your microbiome is consistent across runs. Consistency is perfection in this case....it is an ideal, that even the most advanced rooms with the most demonstrable experts toy with their shortcomings in... Until you're at that point, you simply aren't at that point.
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Ultraviolet
Ultravioletanswered grow question 3h ago
Are all 8 metrics of growth optimal? Does seedling have early access to P? Are you providing antoxidants to assist in the photoprotection of the photosynthetic apparatus under high light intensities ? Is your soil composition/compaction optimal for growth and root penetration? You can just pop her in and hope for the best or you can apply the knowledge you have to better facilitate each process optimizing 1 by 1, slowly but surely. "OH who cares, hardly going to make a difference" One peek at my latest diary should give you enough of an idea how much difference all those tiny .05% differences make when you add them and alot of others up. Results speak for themselves. I'll keep my 4 views a week. Have a lovely day.
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Green_claws
Green_clawsanswered grow question 3h ago
Never had this problem, you want to have the light high then bring it lower or do the se with the settings,, obviously giving the same amount of light then increase with increments in till the plants can handle max power lol..
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Ultraviolet
Ultravioletanswered grow question 3h ago
Historically I always like everyone else placed 99% of my focus on daytime photosynthesis. Once I started to optimize the nights I noticed a marked difference in how much carbon the plant was converting. Keeping temps a toasty 80f will optimize the enzymes that are responsible for final stage of atp production called oxidative phosphorylation. Plants enjoy oxygen at night, the amount of oxygen in the air effects the cellular respiration of roots. Hih moisture levels (high relative humidity) mean less oxygen in the same space. Vpd is almost useless at night. Plant needs to get rid of water at night. The higher moisture level of the air the greater the resistance there is to add more moisture to the air. 80F 45-55rh at nights and hold. Link rh to exhaust for a solid negative pressure. Daytime 86-88f with 70rh%. Keeping rh high indoors will lower cellular respiration . Photosynthesis is responsible for capturing all the carbon but only processes 10% of it into functional chemical energy in form of atp. Cellular respiration converts the other 90%. If you are not giving the plant the conditions and time it needs to get done what it needs done then you are severely limiting the energy conversion potential. She is a plant, a energy processing plant, treat her accordingly. A plant left to grow at its own leasuire at its own pace will develop beautifully woth not a blemish. A world champion will be grown with discipline and stress, pushed to the limits. People seem to think it'd all genetics but it's far more complex than I've seen anyone give it credit for. This is just a olace for hobby growers after all so, just add calmag hope for best.
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