Mold on plant

Bajso987
Bajso987started grow question 9mo ago
I need help i dont know what to do with my plants. I had them m in a smaler tant and because of the airflow the mold started to show up on leafs. I sprayed them with mold remover that someone recommended to me to use. They look worst. now i fear it got into roots because on the b
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techherbie
techherbieanswered grow question 9mo ago
Wow, a few things going on here. Underwatering, pH imbalance (new growth is coming up distorted), spider mites (fine stipling on fan leaves), Calcium deficiency (rust colored spots and necrosis).
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AlienScrOG
AlienScrOGanswered grow question 9mo ago
mammaoh my god, really something bad, not even my plants when they were infected by tobacco virus, really bad memory, it almost seems like a syndrome of the hop viroid very long long styles in my opinion there is a real problem at the base of the cultivation I don’t know if you manage vpd It also seems like a totally incorrect fertilization, nitrogen in over, nitrogen in over is not good I see very long stars, what light are you using? Sorry, at what intensity? I would eliminate it or try to bring it to bloom, do what you like but now the plant is not structurally set up well
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00110001001001111O
00110001001001111Oanswered grow question 9mo ago
The foliar spray definitely didn't cause all the funky leaves wiht odd development. Some look like htey are from a re-vege but i thnk in this case it's just a poorly balanced fertilization formula... just because a formula works the first week, doesn't mean it is a good one.. if leaves don't develop properly over time, it's a good sign your formula is not so good. leaves should progress from 3-5-7-9 fingers at minimum.. .at which point it's hard to determine if it is genetics or imbalance to progress to 11-13+ fingers. A missing tiny fingers is no big deal here or there, but if it's missing all over and getting weird shapes beyond that.. there's something terrible wrong with how it's being fed. This would require a lot more info and assessment of simple things like your irrigation SOP. It'd take a book to cover all the possibilities, so i'm leaving it at that. What damage came from the spray and what was pre-existing is relevant, too. good chance you misdiagnosed wpm, but can't be certain from info given. you may be exacerbating the actual cause of what you see because of that.
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00110001001001111O
00110001001001111Oanswered grow question 9mo ago
unless the foliar spray you used rinsed off some white spots, i don't see mold. Also, there is no cure for mold, so even if it looks 'clean' after a foliar spray, it will grow back within a few days, because there is no foliar spray that is effective against mold. Even commercial-grade stuff that only large farms can purchase is barely effective. Anecdotal sprays or 'organic' sprays are 10x less effective than that, lol. If you ever see mold, cut it out with as little agitation as possible as it will help it spready. Isolate the plant if you can or just throw it out if you have many plants around it. Chances are it's already spreading by the time you see it. mold is primarily a self-inflicted problem. Control your humidity and you will avoid it. 40-65% is the range you want to stick to.. resulting VPD (a function of temp and rh) is how you choose what to target in that range.
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I_T_C_R_W___GROW
I_T_C_R_W___GROWanswered grow question 9mo ago
@Organoman in some points i would friendly disagree: In all pics the plant looks to wet. Some leafs are brown allready and need 100% to be removed. Ok some with just nutri spots in it can stay as long as they stay as they are. But the overfeeding is a secondary problem which gets solved by water a few times and ramping the nutri back to normal. But without a diary and more data we are just guesing in the dark.
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Organoman
Organomananswered grow question 9mo ago
Not mold..............this is burning from over feeding and/or a nutrient salt build up in the substrate. When you irrigate, you must get 10-15% run off each and every time to prevent salt build up. Do not flush, this can just release even more salts and make things worse. Give just plain water, in normal amounts and at normal intervals for the next 10-14 days, then resume feeding at half the strength/frequency you were doing before. Damaged leaves will not recover, but new growth will be ok eventually. This issue is not humidity related. Do not remove any "ugly" leaves.........while they are still mostly green, they are useful. Only remove completely yellow leaves.
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I_T_C_R_W___GROW
I_T_C_R_W___GROWanswered grow question 9mo ago
i still think that your dehum device in the tent kills the plant. The plant trys to stay wet , becauße you remove the moisture, so it just delivers more water which you remove. The leaves get ill when they do not have enough mosture during growphase, all kind of fungi can use the leafs then as a new home - becauce the plant has no chance to regulate its moisture by itself ! Touch the leafs- do they feel wet? You can use a dehumidifier - but only with a few short TIMED cycles - not on Automode. Otherwise it is "Auto-destroy". You can check your roots. But you must remove the leafs with something on it - or it will capture the rest! it is still possible to rescue it. remove all ill leafs, check your roots , and maybe add up some fresh soil and mycoriza while doing it. And then leave your plant a week repair itself (stable at 24-27°C and 58-65% hum 18H/6H) - and no ventilator directet on it!) 2-3 times just small doses of water, then nutri 2x half dose , then fulldose and you should be be back on track.
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